

STAIN
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Getting my sled ready to go this winter. I am running an 8DN belt with an OSP adjuster on my secondary. While setting up my clutches I noticed that my adjuster is all the way out. I usually set up my belt deflection so that while the sled is idling on a stand the track will just barley creep, without making the belt squeal while on the ground. The belt is riding high in the secondary, about the first cord above but I am out of adjustment and the track does not creep. Anyone else seeing this? am I just doing this the old school way and should not worry about it? Deflection seems "OK"
I switched to the 8DN to get rid of some belt slip but after seeing that the Sidewinder is running the 8JP maybe this is no longer a problem with this belt?
I switched to the 8DN to get rid of some belt slip but after seeing that the Sidewinder is running the 8JP maybe this is no longer a problem with this belt?
Yes on my stock secondary with osp adjuster all the way out my track will not spin . But the cat skid takes more energy to rotate the track. With the belt off and sled off the ground I can barely turn the track by hand and use pry bar to get at studs. After Ulmer machined my secondary spring pocket it does jump but not free rotate.
RJH
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Good..you set the deflection first...
I test this way..with the brake on I can just barely spin the belt by hand...other words all set up neutral .belt just barely moves when pulling it.
Where it ends up sticking out of the secondary is secondary (haha)
That said...we did that back in the 70's on my factory sleds..with machining..we had the belt sticking almost completely out of the secondary..more than 3/4 out.+
Deflection was perfect due to machining work...
This gave us a wider ratio and slower track speed on the start..with our 5k engagement.
Further info.. a longer belt will shift harder pull rpm down compared to OEM design..opposite is true with a shorter belt.
However, Yamaha has a complication that makes this hard to achieve.
I test this way..with the brake on I can just barely spin the belt by hand...other words all set up neutral .belt just barely moves when pulling it.
Where it ends up sticking out of the secondary is secondary (haha)
That said...we did that back in the 70's on my factory sleds..with machining..we had the belt sticking almost completely out of the secondary..more than 3/4 out.+
Deflection was perfect due to machining work...
This gave us a wider ratio and slower track speed on the start..with our 5k engagement.
Further info.. a longer belt will shift harder pull rpm down compared to OEM design..opposite is true with a shorter belt.
However, Yamaha has a complication that makes this hard to achieve.
RJH
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Yes on my stock secondary with osp adjuster all the way out my track will not spin . But the cat skid takes more energy to rotate the track. With the belt off and sled off the ground I can barely turn the track by hand and use pry bar to get at studs. After Ulmer machined my secondary spring pocket it does jump but not free rotate.
That is awful drag ay????..but normal I guess. Top Sno-x race put the track on a skid stand free on the sled and run it with an electric motor all day under a sprinkler to break it in. Helps somewhat they have a 1.75" lug.
Our oval sleds track would go around at least 1 full turn with a fast pull..belt off..


STAIN
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Man, it would be nice to have that kind of drag free set up.


Even with 8000 mi and worn drivers,slides etc. mine still takes two hands to rotate. Those extroverts are part of it. With track disengaged from drivers everything spins wth two fingers. Very inefficient but I love the suspension and use it. Is no wonder conditions just kill this chassis. I am going to do some testing with non extrovert drivers. I know sucking up limiter helps but not willing to lose travel. Looking forward to what you find Rjh!


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I've been wanting to try standard drivers as well
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