Accessory plug in type on Viper

[Dealerjohn]

I am assuming that a line without a fuse could overheat/melt wires under the right circumstances? While it seems that most aftermarket hookups that I have seen don't come fused, the factory installations I have seen are fused, and presumably for a good reason. I wired direct to the battery with an in-line fuse under the seat that will be easy to change. My wife's Vector, with the factory installed hookup, blew the fuses twice last winter from the cord shorting out on the running board. Luckily on the Vector, the fusebox is readily accessible, and I was able to change the fuse, even in a raging blizzard.

Barn of parts has a fuse holder Re locator you may be interested in.

 

[cannondale27]

Also be sure to put the center part as + that way if it falls on metal it wont short and blow fuse.

 

[Allan]

The 2016 st x dx comes with a heat shield hookup .
Look at # 15 http://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/yam/56264db487a86602c84a3e44/instrument-panel
This should pug into any viper wiring harness i would think.

 

[Team Arctic]

I just noticed tonight that my Ltx Dx is wire direct to the battery. Not sure if previous owner or dealer did it this way. Is there really any issue with it wired this way? I see no in line fuse either.

There is serious safety issue with that unfused circuit, you need to get a fuse on that. Since 2012 I have been running wire under the gas tank of my ProCross sleds so I can power up my Lowrance Baja on a 24 hour circuit. I use a fuse holder like the one below and there is enough room right at the battery for it, and that's good as you want that fuse as close to the battery as possible and definitely before the wire ducks under the fuel tank.

 

[Pjw350]

http://countrycat.com/ccstore/index...d-shield-dash-outlet-2012-2016-zr-f-xf-m.html

has anyone tried this plug from a/c - i bought one and installed it and seems to work good.

 

[RTX]

I used the skidoo heated shield wiring kit which can be found on ebay for 20-30 bucks
Mine is wired into the cover on the bars
It is fused and wired direct to the battery because i like to have it on constantly.
I find it uses very little power and i have never had an issue with battery power when trying to start the sled and leaving it plugged in all day long during breaks (except for lunch) keeps it completely ice free.
I find that when it gets unplugged sometimes ice will build up around the edges on cold days

 

[walter]

Straight to the battery for me

 

[cannondale27]

http://countrycat.com/ccstore/index...d-shield-dash-outlet-2012-2016-zr-f-xf-m.html

has anyone tried this plug from a/c - i bought one and installed it and seems to work good.

Thats what I use. Kinda chinsy. Cover snaps on very hard. Will be using Rocks Power supply this year. Heated shield,GPS and extra USB for charging phone. All in one and it draws power at the factory cigarette plug so fused. Plan to put my heated seat switch where I drilled hole for that Cat plug.

Guys there is already 7 pages of heated shield info in FAQ. Will add this thread to it.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/accessory-plug-in-type-on-viper.128444/

 

[Blue Dave]

Also be sure to put the center part as + that way if it falls on metal it wont short and blow fuse.

Cannonade, Perhaps I am misunderstanding your post but what you are saying seems backwards to me. My cord is male on both ends so the center pin is what will most likely touch the running board if it is unhooked from the helmet while still plugged into the sled on the other end. In this case it would be better for the center pin to be negative rather than positive.

I suppose the best advice is to simply get in the habit of unplugging the cord from the sled rather than the helmet to avoid the possibility of the cord end shorting out on the running board or other metal part of the sled.

 

[Wannaviper]

Cannonade, Perhaps I am misunderstanding your post but what you are saying seems backwards to me. My cord is male on both ends so the center pin is what will most likely touch the running board if it is unhooked from the helmet while still plugged into the sled on the other end. In this case it would be better for the center pin to be negative rather than positive.

I suppose the best advice is to simply get in the habit of unplugging the cord from the sled rather than the helmet to avoid the possibility of the cord end shorting out on the running board or other metal part of the sled. View attachment 112147

All my helmet cords are in two pieces; there is a short straight double male that goes to your helmet, and then a longer curled cord that has a male end to plug into your sled, and a female end to mate with the helmet cord. The female end shouldn't short out on the running board if it is unplugged from your helmet cord.

 

[Blue Dave]

Ok, so your helmet has a short male to male cord that stays with your helmet and the coiled cord that plugs into the sled has a female end that you disconnect from the short helmet cord.

I like your set-up since dropping the female end of coiled cord on the running board with the male end still connected to the sled will not cause a short since the center recessed female pin is positive.

I found some extra cables that I had and I put together the set-up in the attached picture which I think is something like what you are using. I will probably retire my double male ended coiled cord for this two piece set-up.

 

[cannondale27]

Yes female end center +. Someone once told me that short end off helmet was actually a safety thing lets cord come apart rather than wrap around your neck in a crash.

 

[Blue Dave]

Makes sense to me. I will be using the short male to male cord at the helmet connection shown in the picture in my previous post. Safety from both strangulation and electrical shorts. LOL!

If you use a pre-made harness like shown in this picture the center pin will be positive. This pre-made harness has a fuse and is designed to go straight to the battery.

I prefer my heated shield connection to be straight to the battery so that I can take off my helmet on trail side stops leaving the shield plugged in and hot during the stop. This really helps to keep the shield fog free especially if your trail side stop is in really cold and/or snowy conditions.

 

[Joe ltx-le]

Did you have enough cable to go from the battery to handle bars?

 

[Blue Dave]

Did you have enough cable to go from the battery to handle bars?

Most of the pre-made cables will not be long enough to reach to the handlebars from the battery on a viper because of the rearward location of the battery. Therefore you will most likely will need to splice in extra wire if you want to go direct from the battery to the handlebars.