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ADAPT Clutch Set Up

Dalton said same as team springs which is why they didnt produce any specific for adapt. Said the poundage numbers are the same and will act as expected.
 

Dalton said same as team springs which is why they didnt produce any specific for adapt. Said the poundage numbers are the same and will act as expected.
Thank you for the update.
 
I shared over on HCS because I am reading everything I can and wanted to share here as well. I was excited to see everyone starting to share on the adapt setups.
I have my Daltons set at 76.3 Grams and all else stock including belt on my Riot PEFI 3R setup. No long pulls but short snaps on stage 3 stock gears studded 3per max recall I believe was 8760rpm. Started on eco for the the fist 100mi or so and then up to stage 1 for another 100mi, stage 2 for a hundred or so and then stage 3 for the last couple and I am just a little shy of 600miles. Doing break in fluids and putting my Taylor 21/38 gears in and a new 829 belt I have waiting for the next trip in a couple weeks. I had planned on at least getting the 80/225 primary spring as I like a lower engagement but am reading everywhere I can to see whats working. I was actually really happy with things overall with the setup as is clutches are fairly clean and things were smooth, I just didn't like the slightly higher engagement than I am used too and much lower gear than I am used to as I ran 22/37 with 2.52 in my XF11 and loved it. Cruise 70mph barely touching the throttle and hit it to hang the skies headed for warp speed the stock weights checked in from 65.4-65.9-66.0, while the Daltons were all bang on 76.3 as I set them up with no touch up needed

And update as of today I ordered the BDX cover(couldn’t help it after seeing Justinator’s) and ordered the spring, almost ordered a shallower helix and torsional kit but held for now so I don’t change to much at once, as thing went pretty well out of the gate
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I think you’ll find you’ll end up being around 72 grams with that gear and 829 belt but keep us posted
 
I was thinking about that and wondered about trying a few different placements on the weight distribution, I am gonna try like hell to do a few setups to test on my next trip to the county. I will make sure to get things documented to share. Will be in St. Agatha long lake in two weeks hopefully ready to report again but this time of night
 
29 may be similar to stock??
27 drops around 200 rpm’s correct
I ran my 3r at around 8850 and climbed to 8950-9000
The gears have never affected rpm that much
 
Well I live right in Caribou. If you need anything, feel free to reach out
 
29 may be similar to stock??
27 drops around 200 rpm’s correct
I ran my 3r at around 8850 and climbed to 8950-9000
The gears have never affected rpm that much
I usually have a 200 rpm drop on a new 829 from a cat 112 belt. And he was only seeing 8760 rpm before.
 
I usually have a 200 rpm drop on a new 829 from a cat 112 belt. And he was only seeing 8760 rpm before.
I saw that and that’s what I was referring to about rpm’s. So the 829 is similar to the rpm drop on the 827?
 
Im still playing around with clutching. If its cold out and conditions are hard the stock helix is pretty sweet. When conditions are anything but hard it just doesnt work well and hard to get consistancy. Stm torsion conversion wound up fairly tight is a big help and so is a slightly stiffer compression setup but at the end of the day I just feel its a bit too much helix for me. Ive been playing with the 58-49.15 compound from the 21 and older tcats and I think it works a bit more consistant overall. The speedwerx 46/44 works well in all conditions and obviously needs more clutch weight than other helixes. I would need to test more but I think its provides a bit too much pinch for an ultimax as it felt belt was a bit on the warm side driving casually but clutch was much cooler. In my experience which is limited compared to some on here but on this machine as well as my sidewinders I have found heavier weights and shallower helix angles to be the most consistant in pulling rpms in varying conditions. Steeper helixes and lighter weights tend to have more variance in rpm for changing conditions. Im sure they can be both consistant depending on weight profiles and springs etc but that is my general experience. I shoot for consistancy as this is a trail sled and while I may have small rpm fluctuations depending on conditions I dont want 9000 one day and 8600 the next, that doesnt work for me. Other issue I have to work with right now is the super spool tunes from hurricane spool very hard and to keep rpms in check down low and not overshift on secondary. I have several thousand miles on the td max spool tunes and while they hit hard as well they are not as aggressive and easier to clutch overall. Thats not a td bash, would run their tunes again in a heartbeat. Just wanted to try something different this time around and am quickly learning how aggressive boost throws some challenges in. I hope everyone continues to share, the more info shared the better.
 
Well I live right in Caribou. If you need anything, feel free to reach out
I appreciate it very much, I need to get a place in Caribou some day. Like you guys have said, I will be pulling a little weight to start with. I’d much rather be closer 9000 then 8500, I throw boostane in every tank and keep an eye on temp and AFR to be safe
 
Hey guys, here is what I have been playing with this season.
23 Riot 9000
Powertrail 275 + intake
65.85g
46/44 speedwerx helix
Stock springs
XS829 belt
24/50 gear

I’m running 8950 Rpm. One issue that I have noticed is when the clutches are warm and I take a long hard pull as soon as I left off the throttle it feels like I’m riding the break and it decelerates really fast. (This did this with stock set up too) since changing helix and belt my clutches are staying spotless. I’m completely new to the clutching headaches.
 
Many things can cause a very fast decline of speed like you have.. Your clutching set up can cause it with springs, , weights, helix, wraps out of balance or too much pressure resulting in the harsh downshift.. Your track and suspension can cause it with improper set up…
Hey guys, here is what I have been playing with this season.
23 Riot 9000
Powertrail 275 + intake
65.85g
46/44 speedwerx helix
Stock springs
XS829 belt
24/50 gear

I’m running 8950 Rpm. One issue that I have noticed is when the clutches are warm and I take a long hard pull as soon as I left off the throttle it feels like I’m riding the break and it decelerates really fast. (This did this with stock set up too) since changing helix and belt my clutches are staying spotless. I’m completely new to the clutching headaches.
Too much spring pressure on clutches causing harsh downshift ??? Too many wraps ??? Stock springs finishing rates may not be your best options …. These are just one possible cause.. Track and or suspension set up improper can also cause this.. Or a combination of both….
 
Hey guys, here is what I have been playing with this season.
23 Riot 9000
Powertrail 275 + intake
65.85g
46/44 speedwerx helix
Stock springs
XS829 belt
24/50 gear

I’m running 8950 Rpm. One issue that I have noticed is when the clutches are warm and I take a long hard pull as soon as I left off the throttle it feels like I’m riding the break and it decelerates really fast. (This did this with stock set up too) since changing helix and belt my clutches are staying spotless. I’m completely new to the clutching headaches.

Compression spirings like the Cat runs in the secondary are more prone to engine brake, which IMO isn't such a bad thing. I wished our Yamahas had more engine braking rather than relying on the brake to haul things down.
 
I have noticed similar as I like the engine break too, I only noticed my primary letting go a little earlier then I am used to with my old xf11, hopefully I find good things out of this Speedwerx primary spring with same finish and 25lb lower start. It won’t be a drag race setup but I am looking for slow speed drivability. I like to squeeze it in the mid
 


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