schmeg
Expert
I use Amsoil in my Harley FLHT with great results. You may say no problem in a motor that drums along all day at 2500 rpm, but the Harley is air cooled, and I carry 50 lbs of luggage, a heavy set middle aged wife, and tow a trailer at times, and the bike has 27000 miles on it and the bike performs as new. I've been running Yammi oil in the Apex thus far, but just went to synthetic this summer.
FULL DISCLOSURE: I am an Amsoil Dealer
Here we go..............................My father has a 1996 Kenworth T600 with a 12.7 liter Series 60 Detroit Diesel, with 1.8 million miles on the block.
At 900,000mi, we switched to Amsoil, as they are the only manufacturer to offer 5w-30 diesel oil. The loss of friction gained us .2 mpg, and we extended the drain intervals to 170,000 with the aid of bypass filters. At 1.5 million miles, the head gasket failed, so we had the engine overhauled. Inland Detroit in Milwaukee, Wi was amazed at how little wear there was on the major components(crank, pistons, cam, etc.)
It cost us 5,500$ for the overhaul, cheap, because they are usually $8-12k.
Also, the oil consumption did not change when we switched, in fact, the rear bellhousing had a leak, about a year after Amsoil, it almost stopped completely.
Hardly Smoke and Mirrors.
The gain in fuel economy, the drop in oil temp, the ease of cold starting and reduction of wear at start-up, and the ability to run 11 times longer on AMSOIL more than shows my family and I which oils are good, and which are the BEST.
The 0-40 Four Stroke Oil from Amsoil will give our $10k sleds the same advantages.
Here we go..............................My father has a 1996 Kenworth T600 with a 12.7 liter Series 60 Detroit Diesel, with 1.8 million miles on the block.
At 900,000mi, we switched to Amsoil, as they are the only manufacturer to offer 5w-30 diesel oil. The loss of friction gained us .2 mpg, and we extended the drain intervals to 170,000 with the aid of bypass filters. At 1.5 million miles, the head gasket failed, so we had the engine overhauled. Inland Detroit in Milwaukee, Wi was amazed at how little wear there was on the major components(crank, pistons, cam, etc.)
It cost us 5,500$ for the overhaul, cheap, because they are usually $8-12k.
Also, the oil consumption did not change when we switched, in fact, the rear bellhousing had a leak, about a year after Amsoil, it almost stopped completely.
Hardly Smoke and Mirrors.
The gain in fuel economy, the drop in oil temp, the ease of cold starting and reduction of wear at start-up, and the ability to run 11 times longer on AMSOIL more than shows my family and I which oils are good, and which are the BEST.
The 0-40 Four Stroke Oil from Amsoil will give our $10k sleds the same advantages.
sj said:
My brother-in-law runs the Dominator oil in his 250YZ @ 95:1.0 with CAM2 Racing Fuel.
His bike is a 1998 and hasn't scored a piston yet.
I had a few friends switch to Klotz from Amsoil, cuz "they liked the smell".....duh.........great reason
:ORC
rxwhopper
TY 4 Stroke Guru
so you say a guy can go longer intervals with amsoil? when should a person strt using it, at what milage?
It's suggestive really.
I ran my machine after buying it new for 200 miles, changed the filter, and changed the filter and oil at 500 with Yamalube.
I bought the thing late in the season, and didn't think I would get as many miles as I did, so I didn't put Amsoil in it.
I ended the season with 786 miles, so I will change the filter and put in the 0w-40 before riding this year.
I have done the same thing with two new cars in the last five years. It is a waste of money to put in the first or second oil change, I believe. There is SO MUCH metal and foreign particles when an engine is new it's unbelievable. I cut apart the filter from my wife's SUV at 350 miles and there were chucks and shavings of metal!!!! I think it's good practice to flush out any manufacturing impurities in the first 1000 miles or so, then spend the money for the good stuff.
Also, let me make this clear: I take the "Smoke and Mirrors" comment very seriously.
I explain it like this. I believe ANY synthetic oil is an improvement over crude base oils. Crude oil does not lubricate as an element. It is refined, or "cooked" and ingredients are added to make a lubricating film. Our engines, heat cycle after heat cycle, cook, or "refine" the oil into a different product than what was meant to lubricat our engines.
Synthetic Base Stocks are formulated in a laboratory to lubricate from the onset of it's creation.
That is why synthetics have lower temperature pour points and better resistance to breakdown from heat, therefore giving the manufacturers the ability to use less viscosity in order to gain mpg, horsepower, and lower emissions.
I am not an oil scientist, I am just confident that AMSOIL is the best oil for me, but also confident that any synthetic is better than any crude based oil.
So when you see a test of synthetics and crudes, don't think it's fixed, or synthetics are miracle oils, they just have better technology, that's all.
I ran my machine after buying it new for 200 miles, changed the filter, and changed the filter and oil at 500 with Yamalube.
I bought the thing late in the season, and didn't think I would get as many miles as I did, so I didn't put Amsoil in it.
I ended the season with 786 miles, so I will change the filter and put in the 0w-40 before riding this year.
I have done the same thing with two new cars in the last five years. It is a waste of money to put in the first or second oil change, I believe. There is SO MUCH metal and foreign particles when an engine is new it's unbelievable. I cut apart the filter from my wife's SUV at 350 miles and there were chucks and shavings of metal!!!! I think it's good practice to flush out any manufacturing impurities in the first 1000 miles or so, then spend the money for the good stuff.
Also, let me make this clear: I take the "Smoke and Mirrors" comment very seriously.
I explain it like this. I believe ANY synthetic oil is an improvement over crude base oils. Crude oil does not lubricate as an element. It is refined, or "cooked" and ingredients are added to make a lubricating film. Our engines, heat cycle after heat cycle, cook, or "refine" the oil into a different product than what was meant to lubricat our engines.
Synthetic Base Stocks are formulated in a laboratory to lubricate from the onset of it's creation.
That is why synthetics have lower temperature pour points and better resistance to breakdown from heat, therefore giving the manufacturers the ability to use less viscosity in order to gain mpg, horsepower, and lower emissions.
I am not an oil scientist, I am just confident that AMSOIL is the best oil for me, but also confident that any synthetic is better than any crude based oil.
So when you see a test of synthetics and crudes, don't think it's fixed, or synthetics are miracle oils, they just have better technology, that's all.
boy..my comment got the furr up eh?
first ...he is right about the "base" ...whether natural low grade or higher grade castor oil...they have limits compared to a synthetic based oil..
as to Amsoil being the holy grail of oils, you admit using the special bypass filters ...a much more intensive filter system than a regular bolt on filter..like I said i ran amsoil in 2 strokes,race sleds and vehicles...in my opinion it was no better in the 2 strokes, was better in the vehicles but so was havoline synthetic, mobil one etc...... the extended drain with bypass filters in a diesel is choice for sure....but I'd bet good coin if you ran that system with any synthetic like mobil one (which I believe is the best since it is O.E.M. in over 18 high performance cars) the same results would occur ..
I doubt anyone will rig an amsoil extended drain system with extra filtration on our sleds so..
for my fourstrokes it'll be mobil one ..
first ...he is right about the "base" ...whether natural low grade or higher grade castor oil...they have limits compared to a synthetic based oil..
as to Amsoil being the holy grail of oils, you admit using the special bypass filters ...a much more intensive filter system than a regular bolt on filter..like I said i ran amsoil in 2 strokes,race sleds and vehicles...in my opinion it was no better in the 2 strokes, was better in the vehicles but so was havoline synthetic, mobil one etc...... the extended drain with bypass filters in a diesel is choice for sure....but I'd bet good coin if you ran that system with any synthetic like mobil one (which I believe is the best since it is O.E.M. in over 18 high performance cars) the same results would occur ..
I doubt anyone will rig an amsoil extended drain system with extra filtration on our sleds so..
for my fourstrokes it'll be mobil one ..
BTW
You can run mobil one from day one with no issues...i.e. ring seating
You can run mobil one from day one with no issues...i.e. ring seating
rupprider
Expert
Just so everyone knows:
"dry ice" is solid carbon dioxide. It's surface temperature (the temperature at which it sublimates to gaseous carbon dioxide) is minus 78.5 degrees C or minus 109.3 degrees F. In the the original posters
referenced example, the oils were probably not that cold unless they were sitting on the dry ice for a long time. Since this was at a Amsoil demo, i'm sure that it was chosen to show exactly what they wanted! Mainly, that yamalube doesn't pour at that low temperature :ORC . If the demo would have included other containers of say Mobil One or other synthetics, I wonder what the result would have been? RR
"dry ice" is solid carbon dioxide. It's surface temperature (the temperature at which it sublimates to gaseous carbon dioxide) is minus 78.5 degrees C or minus 109.3 degrees F. In the the original posters
referenced example, the oils were probably not that cold unless they were sitting on the dry ice for a long time. Since this was at a Amsoil demo, i'm sure that it was chosen to show exactly what they wanted! Mainly, that yamalube doesn't pour at that low temperature :ORC . If the demo would have included other containers of say Mobil One or other synthetics, I wonder what the result would have been? RR
rupprider
Expert
Hmm, sorry about the separated post, wasn't like that in the preview. ps I am not an anti-amsoil man, just wanted to get the temperatures into the post. 
good point!
Daranello
Suspended
rupprider said:
Mobil 1 was included....there was 5 other oils.....I would say Mobil was 2nd best.....but still thick
420ATTAK
Pro
I switched my viper over to ams oil after a couple of running a mineral oil and the differance was night and day!! no more smoke, no oil puddles on the snow after an idiling and power valves were spotless! in my 04 wolverine i swiched to ams oil (air cooled) lowered running temp and made it shift smoother (wet clutch) i think i am going to do my attak but i was thinking royal purple... i work at an auto parts store and i can get royal purple (next to cost) and i have to shop for ams oil any one hear any thing on royal purple?? love to hear oppinions thanx!
420ATTAK
Pro
or how about castrol syntec?
420ATTAK
Pro
never mind guys i just looked in my royal purple cataloge and they dont have any 0-30 or o-40 so i guess its syntec or ams oil anyone running syntec?
420ATTAK
Pro
i called to royal purple and they said i could run a 5-20 or 5-30 motor oil but they were from texas!! im open for suggestions i ride in southern ont most of the time i do a week to northern ont (-40 overnight) but average day temp in sothern ont is about -5 to -10ish
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