An opinion needed..

[SRXSRULE2]

First weekend out on the Nytro and I have mixed feelings. It is an 09 rtx se that has been OFT stretched to a 136" sled. I installed the Ripsaw II when i did the stretch. After 500 km's so far it seams to be a decent track. I'm not currently running studs and I was riding on hard pack/ ice with 2-4 inches of soft snow on top. Traction I would rate a 8/10 as the only time I had any issues I was on glare ice. Even with the 136 stretch it didn't push hard going into a corner. I can't compare to the original ripsaw because I never rode it as a 121".

Here's my dilemma. When I bought this sled it had C&A skis on it, which I figured out tonight are the Razors. They have what were 9" carbides on it, I'd say about 7 1/2" now (fronts of carbides are worn down to the bar). It doesn't dart at all, it doesn't push in the corners but I have to yank the handle bars to get the ski's to turn. I have too much front grip. I leave for a week long trip to Gaspe Quebec on friday morning. I'll be dead after 2 days if I ride it as is. I don't have much time to mess around. I need to get some weight off the ski's or change ski's.

My setup is as follows. Front- Air pressure set at 65 PSI with skis off the ground, unsure as to where compression/rebound is right now. Sway bar in stock hole. Rear- Front skid shock has 3/8" of thread showing above the adjustment nut. Also unsure where compression/rebound is. Rear torsion springs set at Medium. Front limiter strap is at max length (full transfer) I believe the rear strap is also at max transfer. I'm gonna say I'm 180 lbs with gear.

Can I cure the heavy steering with some adjustments? Or what ski's should I be buying tomorrow? (leave friday) I mostly trail ride with occasional deep snow off trail riding. I will sacrifice some push in the corners for a lighter turning ski.

 

[Nytro40th]

I think perhaps your carbides are to long, get a shorter pair, some run longer carbides when they run picks. I run 6 inch shaper bars. Others will chime in. The tuner skis have good reviews.

 

[Paddykob]

I'd keep your weight transfer setup but change the carbides. I run woodys dooly 9in. Keeps the sled agressive, no darting, but mostly lightens the front end.

 

[Paddykob]

I'd keep your weight transfer setup but change the carbides. I run woodys dooly 9in. Keeps the sled agressive, no darting, but mostly lightens the front end.

 

[SRXSRULE2]

Going to a shorter carbide was what I was thinking, I'm just unsure how much of a difference it will make with these ski's. I talked to a friend of mine runs them on his nytro as well and he says they are the same (heavy steering).

I was reading a lot last night. I see a lot of people shim their skis for darting issues. Would it be worth it to shim the rear some to get the front of the ski up? It seams like there is a lot of pressure ahead of the spindle on the skis which would make me believe it would be harder to turn as well. If I could shim them to get the weight more focused at the spindle it may help me some.

 

[LEE337]

I have about the same setup when i put my sled together except for curve skis. I started with 8.5" shaper bars which was a bear to turn. Put on 4.5" round bar per Curves recomendations and it cut the effort by about a third. It did not have any ill effects on the handling. The effort is still more than i would like but much better then before.

 

[grizztracks]

Steering relocate will help a lot with steering effort but I'm not sure if you can get an OFT kit ordered and installed in time for your trip. I made my own relocate a couple of years ago and it works great. Here are a few pictures of how I did it: Steering relocate pictures . Less carbide and a little more preload in the center shock will also help.

 

[SRXSRULE2]

I like the idea of the relocate, looked at the oft one when I ordered my extension. I wanted to try it stock before I changed anything. I'm really short (5'6") and I'm short in the arms as well. Looking at the relocate I was thinking that I would be too streched out when sitting and it might be uncomfortable.

So I think I'll look for a little less aggressive carbide today, play with the center shock some. Thanks for the input guys.

 

[grizztracks]

I'm 5'8" and have no problem with my version of the relocate although mine does not move the bars as far forward as the OFT version. Even with the OFT relocate you can rotate the bars back so you don't reach as far.

 

[yox185]

Would it be worth it to shim the rear some to get the front of the ski up? It seams like there is a lot of pressure ahead of the spindle on the skis which would make me believe it would be harder to turn as well. If I could shim them to get the weight more focused at the spindle it may help me some.

Yes try it, can't hurt. Instead of installing shims just turn the rubbers around. It will take 10 minutes and if it doesn't work 10 minutes to turn them back.

 

[Filks]

I hear you on the heavy steering. I have an xtx and was blowing corners (understeer) with factory skis and was talked into C&A Razors, and now I have heavy steering. I did the oft relocator and yes it helps. The best "bang for your buck" is turning up the front shock spring in your skid - which is free! I found it had quite a dramatic affect really. As little as one revolution seemed to make a big difference in the amount of steering effort. That being said - it's a fine line between steering effort and watching the corner go by as you blast straight. Do it in small increments (say 1/2 turn of spring compression) and see if it gets you your desired "feel". You've really got nothing to lose aside from a few minutes out in the garage.

 

[s1d3w1nd3r1480]

The OFT relocator makes a dramatic difference in my opinion. My shoulders killed the first two trips I took this year. I installed the relocator and my next trip was night and day difference. I was afraid that with my 2in riser block and the relocator they were going to be to high (couldn't remove the block as I mounted the tether to it). Well found out that at 6' I love the bars where they are now. It won't stretch you out as far as you think as it will bring you a bit closer to the tank and all around more comfortable (without slaming the bars into your junk on turns). And if you aren't a stand up rider the relocator will make you more of one as it is a blast to stand up on this sled now. Just my 0.02 cents

 

[grizztracks]

I don't know why you would buy this sled if you're not a stand up rider. The relocate definitely compliments the standing position.

 

[raginyamaha]

had c+a on when i first had my sled, tried everything to lighten the steering. Couldnt do it, found some used curve skis and tried those and was the greatest thing ive put on my sled. Lost a little cornering bite, still trying to tune that out, and sent my rear shocks to hygear for a revalve. i also have the stretch kit and im pretty close to perfect right now i think. good luck, either way ull have fun on ur trip. I have 60 miles on this year so far.......

 

[sleddingfarmer]

I had the exact same sled, with 136" stretch, with C&A razors. Turned really hard. Annoyed me enough that I sold the sled.

After I sold it to my brother I brought the shocks in and had the rears rebuilt and revalved. After the shocks had some good valving in them and the suspension sat in a little it turned and handled much better with a lot less effort. So I vote that you do that. But you probably don't have time before your trip.

Going from a 8" carbide to a 6" carbide that are both the same bar size isn't going to effect your steering effort at all. Are you running shapers now? Going to a round bar will be easier than a Shaper bar. If you're already running a Round bar, you're kinda screwed.

You could let your front limiter strap out all the way if it isn't already, and tighten the center shock/spring to lighten the front end. Might not turn as well while on the throttle tho. Otherwise a different ski is going to be your other solution. C&A is a tough turning ski.