Apex Oil Change

[MrSled]

Here is the oil change kit that I use for this 2011 Apex SE. I always run full synthetic but Yamaha does have other kits with Synthetic Blend available.

In this kit you get 4 quarts, oil filter and new brass washer for the drain plug. Also on the back of the box of the oil change kit there will be specs shown for what sled it can be used on as well as the amount of oil needed to fill those machines. You will need about 3.8 quarts plus or minus a few ounces. Fill to the Full Mark and check the oil by setting the dip stick in, do NOT screw it in to check level.

Remove Hood, Left Side Panel and Right Side Panel

Remove the panel between the tank and gauge pod with the Allen 1/4 turn fasteners. You can remove the chrome trim ring if you like to help remove the panel but I just flex the panel around the trim ring.

Tip up the panel and unplug the ignition and the 12 volt accessory outlet.

Remove the lower right side panel. There are 3 fasteners on the underside, 1 Phillips on the front near the oil tank and 1 Phillips through the running board.

Remove the light pod. There is one 10mm bolt on each side, once removed you can slide the light ahead off the underside tabs about 8 to 10 inches. Then you can unplug the light and gauge. There should only be 2 plugs unless you have HID lights then you need to unplug all that as well.

Once the light pod is removed and set off in a safe place, then you can remove the air box.
Unplug the sensor on the right side of the box (as you are standing at the front bumper).

Using a ball end Allen, reach down and loosen the clamps that hold the air box to the throttle bodies. Once loose, remove the strap on the nose of the box and pull up and towards the front bumper taking note of the hose on the right underside of the air-box and the vent line on the right front from the air box to the throttle bodies.

Once the air-box is removed then you need to pull the battery cover, battery and battery holder.

 

[MrSled]

Remove the battery strap, remove the battery cover, remove the positive and negative wires on battery and lift battery out.

Remove the upper bolts that hold the battery holder to the delta box. Unplug the sensor near the CDI in the belly pan area. Then remove the bolts that hold the CDI mount. Push that down into the belly pan area once the bolts are removed. Now remove the final 2 bolts that hold the bottom edge of the battery cage into the lower bulk head. Once all the bolts are removed you can move all the fuses and relay off the battery holder by sliding back their rubber mounts of the mounting tabs. Now you can lift out the battery cage starting from the right pulling the main harness back. This is a pain but it will come out.

Now you can remove the belly pan access covers 2 Allen head bolts to gain access to the main engine drain plug. Pull drain plug to drain engine. This may be tight so be sure that your Allen head socket is in all the way so you don't round out the bolt.

Pull drain plug on the oil tank next.

Remove the filter that was under the battery cage.

Let her drain out good and replace the washer on the drain plug.

When installing the new filter be sure to put some oil on the filter o-ring and make sure the old o-ring came off with the old filter. Basically from here once everything is drained and all the plugs are put back in you install everything in reverse order. Add the 3 quarts of oil into the tank. Turn sled on for a few minutes to allow the oil to fill the new filter and then top off oil.

Please ask any questions and if I missed anything I can update. It was a quick change for me and Ill try and get a few more pics on the next one.

 

[chris189]

Thank you very much for the time you took to do this. I will be doing my first oil change this weekend so the timing couldn't have been better.

 

[biffdotorg]

Wasn't this a sticky before? If not, I nominate for sticky! Don't forget the swearing and beer drinking that happens when you round out the crankcase drain plug! I hate that thing!

 

[Teamblue4]

Don't forget to clean the screen in the oil tank. or don't you do that? gets a few more oz. of dirty oil out.

 

[MrSled]

Don't forget to clean the screen in the oil tank. or don't you do that? gets a few more oz. of dirty oil out.

Yes the first change I do clean the screen and after that it's not really necessary.

 

[titanrcr]

Don't forget to check the exup cables while your doing your preseason (2011 and up). I finally had a broken cable this year. No wonder it wouldn't pull it's normal top speed last season!

 

[MrSled]

Don't forget to check the exup cables while your doing your preseason (2011 and up). I finally had a broken cable this year. No wonder it wouldn't pull it's normal top speed last season!

I agree but this is just an oil change thread... but that is a good tip to check every year.

 

[rontrepanier]

how long does the oil change take on average,should the filter be changed every year also,have heard no need to c hange filter

 

[Sasquatch]

I have to add, make sure when you take the plug out of the bottom that you are using a Metric Allen Key. Use of a Standard SAE Allen Key will strip the plug. I use a Allen key that is for a 3/8 socket wrench. I have two sets of these sockets one for metric and one for SAE. I also have the long and short Allen wrench sets. You can't have to many tools and it gives the wife and kids things to buy for you on birthdays and at Christmas.

I tap (key word tap) the 3/8th inch socket Allen key in the Allen head plug with a hammer to ensure its all the way in and it stays there while I put the ratchet on it. Tapping also helps to loosen them by vibrating the bond between the threads. Yamaha is metric it needs metric tools. People hate Allen heads but I like them.

Its the same as the Phillips #3 screws, right tool for the right job or run the risk of stripping it. I tap these as well to ensure fitment. I wish that instead of Phillip screws they had used Allen Heads because they are way harder to strip but I know many will disagree.

 

[MrSled]

I have to add, make sure when you take the plug out of the bottom that you are using a Metric Allen Key. Use of a Standard SAE Allen Key will strip the plug. I use a Allen key that is for a 3/8 socket wrench. I have two sets of these sockets one for metric and one for SAE. I also have the long and short Allen wrench sets. You can't have to many tools and it gives the wife and kids things to buy for you on birthdays and at Christmas.

I tap (key word tap) the 3/8th inch socket Allen key in the Allen head plug with a hammer to ensure its all the way in and it stays there while I put the ratchet on it. Tapping also helps to loosen them by vibrating the bond between the threads. Yamaha is metric it needs metric tools. People hate Allen heads but I like them.

Its the same as the Phillips #3 screws, right tool for the right job or run the risk of stripping it. I tap these as well to ensure fitment. I wish that instead of Phillip screws they had used Allen Heads because they are way harder to strip but I know many will disagree.

Very good point!!

 

[MrSled]

how long does the oil change take on average,should the filter be changed every year also,have heard no need to c hange filter

Maybe an hour or less for me....I try and take my time and keep everything clean.

 

[FRANK]

Mr. Sled, if I may add? Be careful not to over torque the "clamps that hold the air box to the throttle bodies" This will twist and distort the clamps maybe even pinching the boot off the throttle bodies in the process. My SE came with 3 of the 4 clamps twisted due to a poor set-up from my dealer. Good thing I checked! Doesn't hurt to apply some lube to the boots or throttle bodies, make sure all is well seated before tightening. Thanks for taking the time, your How Too's are always very much appreciated!

 

[MrSled]

Mr. Sled, if I may add? Be careful not to over torque the "clamps that hold the air box to the throttle bodies" This will twist and distort the clamps maybe even pinching the boot off the throttle bodies in the process. My SE came with 3 of the 4 clamps twisted due to a poor set-up from my dealer. Good thing I checked! Doesn't hurt to apply some lube to the boots or throttle bodies, make sure all is well seated before tightening. Thanks for taking the time, your How Too's are always very much appreciated!

Another good point... I may have to update the write-up

 

[titanrcr]

Mr. Sled, if I may add? Be careful not to over torque the "clamps that hold the air box to the throttle bodies" This will twist and distort the clamps maybe even pinching the boot off the throttle bodies in the process. My SE came with 3 of the 4 clamps twisted due to a poor set-up from my dealer. Good thing I checked! Doesn't hurt to apply some lube to the boots or throttle bodies, make sure all is well seated before tightening. Thanks for taking the time, your How Too's are always very much appreciated!

Yes, Good point. Two out of the four on my sled were twisted beyond repair this year, lucky my dealer had a few in stock which tells my it's a common problem. When putting them back on I noticed that they can only be oriented in one direction. There's a notch in the clamp and bump on the rubber boot that must line up. I had been having my son do my oil changes the past few seasons, you know what they say, if you want it done right.........