B/O orange

[Benz]

FYI. The B/O at 3-1 would have no torsion on it whatsoever. It slides on at zero wrap at 40 Degrees.

Ok so I have a 2021 srx stock tune and clutching. 1.35 cobra track with 144 woodys 1.5 studs. It works good now but would like a little more out of it. Are you saying that the BO spring would be the best next step aside from tuning it at this point?

 

[KnappAttack]

Ok so I have a 2021 srx stock tune and clutching. 1.35 cobra track with 144 woodys 1.5 studs. It works good now but would like a little more out of it. Are you saying that the BO spring would be the best next step aside from tuning it at this point?

No. Not saying it will be quicker or faster at all. It would provide a better throttle response if you are using the pink spring. It will backshift better yes. Will it be faster? Well you'd have to test that. Clutching is a recipe and all components must work together to do what you want it to do. Speed on ice will be a different setup than something run in the snow. There is no magic component thats going to give you more if you don't know what you want or are looking to do with it. The factory provides an average setup, changing components gives you different things.


A tune will flat out give you more power and it will more than likely need to be compensated with in one form or another in the clutching department.

 

[Benz]

No. Not saying it will be quicker or faster at all. It would provide a better throttle response if you are using the pink spring. It will backshift better yes. Will it be faster? Well you'd have to test that. Clutching is a recipe and all components must work together to do what you want it to do. Speed on ice will be a different setup than something run in the snow. There is no magic component thats going to give you more if you don't know what you want or are looking to do with it. The factory provides an average setup, changing components gives you different things.


A tune will flat out give you more power and it will more than likely need to be compensated with in one form or another in the clutching department.

Yes i get the tune will increase it a lot as i rode my friends 19 with a tune. I am looking for more throttle response as i trail ride it and want the rip out of the corner. I find it runs out up top though. Maybe next year I will do a tune but for now there is no budget left. Stock secondary it set at 3 and 3 with the pink spring.

 

[Fords4life]

Yes i get the tune will increase it a lot as i rode my friends 19 with a tune. I am looking for more throttle response as i trail ride it and want the rip out of the corner. I find it runs out up top though. Maybe next year I will do a tune but for now there is no budget left. Stock secondary it set at 3 and 3 with the pink spring.

After years of messen around i have found there is no one magic spring, it takes a combo of parts and testing. Do yourself a favor save up get like a 240 hp ss hurricane tune, this will give you what you are looking 4, plus be reliable and not octane fussy, and easy to dial in with minn clutch wrk, just my 2 cents worth.

 

[Fords4life]

After years of messen around i have found there is no one magic spring, it takes a combo of parts and testing. Do yourself a favor save up get like a 240 hp ss hurricane tune, this will give you what you are looking 4, plus be reliable and not octane fussy, and easy to dial in with minn clutch wrk, just my 2 cents worth.

On a tune such as 240hp you might get by on reclutching with a simple belt change, if you are running the 8jp belt now a change to the ultimax belt alone could very well bring the rpms where they would need to be on 240hp.

 

[Fast]

Yes i get the tune will increase it a lot as i rode my friends 19 with a tune. I am looking for more throttle response as i trail ride it and want the rip out of the corner. I find it runs out up top though. Maybe next year I will do a tune but for now there is no budget left. Stock secondary it set at 3 and 3 with the pink spring.

Try wrapping the stock pink at 6-2, works for me with 1.5" track, it's known to coil bind but doesn't affect my 19 srx

 

[number1kyster]

On a tune such as 240hp you might get by on reclutching with a simple belt change, if you are running the 8jp belt now a change to the ultimax belt alone could very well bring the rpms where they would need to be on 240hp.

This is sound advice. It is what I have done with good results. IMO the XS belt is the most durable anyways.

 

[KnappAttack]

Yes i get the tune will increase it a lot as i rode my friends 19 with a tune. I am looking for more throttle response as i trail ride it and want the rip out of the corner. I find it runs out up top though. Maybe next year I will do a tune but for now there is no budget left. Stock secondary it set at 3 and 3 with the pink spring.

Try the B/O if thats what you are looking for at 6-2 and report back your findings. The Pink is real wimpy down low and like to coil bind pretty bad, but that coil bind makes for good RPM and belt grip up top, so acts stiff up top even though its a wimpy spring because its bound tight.

DO NOT wrap the pink higher than factory settings as has been suggested above. If you get up on the top end with the stock pink wound tighter it could pop belts in half if you spend time up there. You would be better off going to the stiffer stock Yellow spring that came in the 2017 and setting it at 3-3 than wrapping the pink tighter. The pink binds already at stock settings and provides a ton of belt pinch on the top end, setting it tighter limits the speed and belt travel even further. The Yellow is right there close to binding at 3-3 and can not be wrapped any tighter either without limiting secondary travel.

 

[Fast]

Try the B/O if thats what you are looking for at 6-2 and report back your findings. The Pink is real wimpy down low and like to coil bind pretty bad, but that coil bind makes for good RPM and belt grip up top, so acts stiff up top even though its a wimpy spring because its bound tight.

DO NOT wrap the pink higher than factory settings as has been suggested above. If you get up on the top end with the stock pink wound tighter it could pop belts in half if you spend time up there. You would be better off going to the stiffer stock Yellow spring that came in the 2017 and setting it at 3-3 than wrapping the pink tighter. The pink binds already at stock settings and provides a ton of belt pinch on the top end, setting it tighter limits the speed and belt travel even further. The Yellow is right there close to binding at 3-3 and can not be wrapped any tighter either without limiting secondary travel.

With the pink spring wrapped at 6-3 i can cruise across the lake at 105mph and back off the throttle to 3/4 or less and stay there for 10-20 miles, i change the belt yearly but they still look brand new,i will be checking it for bind when i get time

 

[KnappAttack]

Might be fine for you on 1.5" track and that's all the faster you'll go. But they bind and bind hard and limit the travel wrapped that high. Yamaha runs them this way very close to binding at the stock wrap to provide enough belt squeeze to hold the belt at the end of their travel. You do that wrap with a 1" or even a 1.5" track and it will pop belts and heat the hell out of them.

Turn it upside down in a drill press and run it thru its travel on a bathroom scale and see what happens as it gets to the end, in fact it will not get to the end without binding with the Pink at 3-3 even, but like I say Yamaha is doing this on purpose with the reverse helix to keep a hold on the belt up top. Its also the reason you saw the B/O actually RPM less than the Pink, because the B/O is not binding and out of travel like the Pink was wrapped up like that. The Pink is out of gear wrapped that tight and holds RPM because its out of travel and out of gear. It can't go faster unless the RPM goes up with it. Lots of belt pressure when you hold if from shifting further in the secondary, but the primary wants to keep going!

 

[Doc Harley]

So, with 3500miles on stock springs, I noticed a good amount of black scrub marks mostly on secondary. Some on primary.
Ordered both the B/O secondary & B/Brz primary.
I'm hopeful the characteristics of these combined springs will offer similar to stock with better belt grip.
Is that true?
Still using 8jp belt as they have been flawless for me.
I would change to xs825 but didn't want to lose RPM & afford the cost of the additional adjustable arms.
I'll consider that when tuned.

 

[jonlafon1]

If your looking for better belt grip The XS belt is a better option then trying to make a 8jp grip better.

 

[Doc Harley]

If your looking for better belt grip The XS belt is a better option then trying to make a 8jp grip better.

Ok, well I guess I'll throw in the towel. Lol. Justing getting in one more ride. I'll make the necessary changes in the off-season. Thanks, Jon

 

[jonlafon1]

Ok, well I guess I'll throw in the towel. Lol. Justing getting in one more ride. I'll make the necessary changes in the off-season. Thanks, Jon

Hold on don’t throw in the towel!! Never do that. I really think you should make one change at a time or just go with a set up from another MEMBER with VARY SIMILAR Power, track length/lug height, stud count, same clutch weights, same belt brand and springs. I would think if you post all these things you would get some members with close to same things I mentioned above that match your sled. Starting point. Then work on one setting or component at a time.

 

[Doc Harley]

Hold on don’t throw in the towel!! Never do that. I really think you should make one change at a time or just go with a set up from another MEMBER with VARY SIMILAR Power, track length/lug height, stud count, same clutch weights, same belt brand and springs. I would think if you post all these things you would get some members with close to same things I mentioned above that match your sled. Starting point. Then work on one setting or component at a time.

I'm pretty sure my springs are sacked out. So starting there, I wanted to put springs in that would work for me now & later.
I'm sure an xs belt will cost me to lose 300rpm +/-. And thought I'd pick the RPMs back up with a tune (jukebox) probably 240hp.
Then run that for a bit under I got familiar.
Then play with weights/tunes and go from there.
I'm really not into playing with things. Set it & forget it type guy. Don't want to get too much into 2bar, 3bar, bov, etc.
Seems like the further you go the more upkeep necessary.