• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

B/O orange

To make sure I wasnt wrong I proved it to myself. The pictures here show a 2mm loss in travel and in real world actually a little more than that as I had to squeeze hard to get it here and in reality itll probably stop shifting before that. A good reminder of why winding tight coil springs results in guaranteed bind. If you never run at top end not a huge deal. Pic of open clutch measurement with no spring, pic of stacked coils and pic of measurement at max shift due to stacked coils.
View attachment 165914View attachment 165915View attachment 165916
Nice work , so if i took 100 thou. Off my secondary, say 50 thou off helix and 50 thou of spring pocket in clutch would i see more top end? and would 90 degrees still be the same tension with it compressed 2mm less? would the b/o maybe run higher rpm and cooler at 90 degrees
 

Nice work , so if i took 100 thou. Off my secondary, say 50 thou off helix and 50 thou of spring pocket in clutch would i see more top end? and would 90 degrees still be the same tension with it compressed 2mm less? would the b/o maybe run higher rpm and cooler at 90 degrees
You lose tension if you machine pockets, kinda like shimming the helix. You gain some travel before bind but sometimes end up needing to wrap tension higher to get the same pressure you had before which wrapping extra makes you closer to binding again. Much better off to use a dalton spring or even the tporange as these springs can go theough the whole shift cycle without beingclose to binding. If you use BO spring you may have to try a few different wraps to see what you like best but like knapp mentioned above, 6-2 is usually good for stock up to 240hp and larger tunes 270+ seem to like 6-3
 
Can one use this spring with heavy hitters or keep using their orange with the 240 tune
Sure. It’s all about having the correct wrap on these springs. It really does not matter what brand. Your trying to wrap the spring at whatever pressure stops the belt from slipping in the secondary and does not over squeeze on the top end. Could be 6/3 on the Dalton and 6/1 on the TP. These two springs are not going to be the same pressure if they are both wrapped at say 6/3. IMO the TP orange at 6/1 would be similar to the Dalton b/o at 6/3. Knapp has a way that he tests these pressures and compare springs and is more accurate. Not every sled will require 6/3 with the Dalton as a example. HP levels and helix angles will come into play. Traction is a huge factor also. Checking belt temps while in the field and changing the wrap if needed will be the only way to say what spring AND wrap works best for your sled.
 
Again... The TP Orange has no need to be wrapped as high as 6/1.
 
Again... The TP Orange has no need to be wrapped as high as 6/1.

Well that all depends on your setup... I've wrapped them higher than that even, and I'm talking the TP orange yes.
 
Well that all depends on your setup... I've wrapped them higher than that even, and I'm talking the TP orange yes.
Very weird! I already ran 3-0 with TP orange with any slipping and now with the V2 B/Of wrap at 6-3 I have about 150 rpm less with the same setup and condition
 
The Dalton blk/org is 8.5/52 kg.

The TPS orange is 13/55 kg, so stiffer across the board.

I've also had good luck with Dalton blk/tan at 10/57 kg wrapped to 50 degrees.

Dalton blk/org 8.5/52kg? This at 6-3?
 
Last edited:
Very weird! I already ran 3-0 with TP orange with any slipping and now with the V2 B/Of wrap at 6-3 I have about 150 rpm less with the same setup and condition
So you went from very light tension on the secondary spring to a completely different brand at 6/3. I’m not sure why? What caused you to do this? If the 3/0 was good why triple the tension with another brand spring? Stick with one spring and start with lower tension. Test for heat/slippage in the secondary. Continue increasing tension with the same spring until temps drop and clutches run clean.
 
Dalton blk/org 8.5/52kg? This at 6-3?

Stub Shaft taken apart and fixed as was pushed in and secondary machined have hurricane alignment tool.

I have a Dalton blk/tan ripped belt apart at 3-2 went to 3-3 and torn some top lugs off
Black/Green primary Dalton DTYA-2 almost full weight 35/39 stock SRX ’19 helix 21 or 22 top gear 41 bottom 300+hp lots of traction.
I don’t mind adding more primary spring or a lot even just don’t like 200 miles per belt doesn’t matter the brand of belt currently.
8.5kgs of torsion at 70 wrap is how spring is listed on dalton site. 52kg is force with spring collapsed. Dont think black tan at a low wrap is not gonna be enough spring for a 39 finish with all that weight you have.
 
So you went from very light tension on the secondary spring to a completely different brand at 6/3. I’m not sure why? What caused you to do this? If the 3/0 was good why triple the tension with another brand spring? Stick with one spring and start with lower tension. Test for heat/slippage in the secondary. Continue increasing tension with the same spring until temps drop and clutches run clean.
Yes for sure ! This is what I did with the TP orange. The best temp with no slippage is 3-0. Maybe it was different story if my track has studs. I want better response. If I increase tension on TP it start to heat in the secondary. I'm testing now if I can increase tension on the B/O for more snappier without or minimum heat.
 
If your TP orange was good on 3/0. And your trying the B/O Dalton Then start on 3/0 or 3/1 with the Dalton. No need to go 6/3 to start.

You want better response? Like down low? Or mid range?
 
If your TP orange was good on 3/0. And your trying the B/O Dalton Then start on 3/0 or 3/1 with the Dalton. No need to go 6/3 to start.

You want better response? Like down low? Or mid range?

FYI. The B/O at 3-1 would have no torsion on it whatsoever. It slides on at zero wrap at 40 Degrees.
 


Back
Top