Beginner questions

[stevewithOCD]

Two questions for those that have some experience with this chassis. 1) any suggestions for shock pre-load or ''sag'' to start with? For example my Apex was 45mm from up in air to when i sat on it 2) i plan on running these Tuners until they suck so, any carbide lengths for starters? Looking for just plain carbides for Ice-Attack 137'' track. Again, not looking for different ski's or dually's or shock re-valving, just starting point...

 

[jonlafon1]

I like sled to drop maybe a inch or two when sitting on it(in back). Depends on your riding style some also.

The front a arms(top arms) should be above flat to the ground while sitting on machine. Not parallel or flat(when looking from front of machine while sitting) to the ground BUT slightly(3/4 inch) higher(angle) then. Also depending on your style
More will chime in . just my 2 cents. trial error and what you like also

 

[cannondale27]

X2 and then keep adjusting spring preload on center track shock till you find the sweet spot where front feels light on throttle but doesnt push in corners. One full turn of nut at a time. Good luck getting them loose the factory tightens the heck out of those nuts. Cheap wrench in tool kit is all that is needed once loose. First time a piece of aluminum and hammer or a real good spanner will be needed. As for shock adjust rebound first before touching compression. A nice whoops section is where you do this. As fast rebound as possible without kicking is your goal.

 

[krm]

i'm running dual 4.5" shapers on the stk skis .works pretty good so far .start out full soft on shocks if you have an le .

 

[DranttelSS]

Running 6" Shaper bar on the inside and 6" round bar on the outside. XTX 137 LE with 137X1.75 Back Country track

 

[**sj**]

whats you rider weight

 

[stevewithOCD]

170

 

[Q. Arrius]

So along these line, someone posted that on these LE shocks.....turning the dial to the 3 position will close the valves, and thereby stiffen the suspension. Right to tighten, lefty loosey ect

So on the rebound Cannondale....to get the most rebound to deal with the bumps, I want to open or close the valves? I would guess turning to the left as you look at the shock, or to the negative ( -).....would open the rebound valve, allowing for quicker rebound. Is this correct?

I have never had rebound adjustment, so any tips would be much appreciated!

Q. Arrius

 

[cannondale27]

So along these line, someone posted that on these LE shocks.....turning the dial to the 3 position will close the valves, and thereby stiffen the suspension. Right to tighten, lefty loosey ect

So on the rebound Cannondale....to get the most rebound to deal with the bumps, I want to open or close the valves? I would guess turning to the left as you look at the shock, or to the negative ( -).....would open the rebound valve, allowing for quicker rebound. Is this correct?

I have never had rebound adjustment, so any tips would be much appreciated!

Q. Arrius

You are correct. Counterclockwise will make rebound faster. You want it fast enough so in a series of bumps or moguls the suspension falls into the valley to prepare for the next bump in series. If it's not fast enough suspension will pack up and not be ready for next bump. You always adjust rebound first(after ride hieght) because when you open the rebound clicker it also makes the compression damping less since you are bypassing the valving in doing so. Compression 3 position knob has no effect on rebound. It helps to find a mogul or whoops section and have someone watch your suspension as you go through it the back especially otherwise it's hard to tell if it's doing it correctly or just bottoming out.

 

[cannondale27]

Oh and the springs will dramatically soften in the first 150-300 mi so clickers will need adjusting again after that.

 

[stevewithOCD]

Ok, so let's start from scratch. I've got the adjuster blocks at lowest setting for my weight. Loosened spring lock nuts for easier adjustment in field. I left all spring tensions stock for now. Front rebound clickers 10 from tight, about the middle. All 4 dials at 2 for now. Does the rear front shock effect ski lift or rear end stiffness or both? How do i adjust transfer?

 

[cannondale27]

Rear front affects both. Many with the standard center shock ran the QS3 in rear a bit stiffer on compression to help the center shock from bottoming at full transfer(G-Out). You have a nice center shock so you should not have to compensate. If you push down as hard as you can on rear of sled and say one onethousand the rear should be all the way back up thats rebound on rear. From there testing is needed. you adjust the transfer by loosening the bolts on the transfer blocks at rear. The plastic blocks the scissor comes against when suspension is compressed. If it turns and no push use position 1 which is least coupling. Even though its a square there is only 3 transfer block settings 1 is used twice. Your limiter straps should already be in the first hole. Once you get about 2000mi or so on put limiters in hole 2 since they stratch and can damage the shock at full extension. When you adjust the transfer blocks you MUST lightly tighten the bolts and then compress the rear of sled all the way. Stand on the bumper. This sets the angle of the block to hit the scissor flat. If this is not done the blocks will be damaged for sure. Most sleds from Cat have transfer blocks set at 1 already. The numbers are small use a flashlight to see them or just look at how far out the edge is.

 

[crf]

http://www.arcticinsider.com/Article/ProCross-Handling-Tips-Find-Your-Happy-Place

 

[cannondale27]

Bolt to adjust blocks there is one each side whole shaft rotates with the blocks once loose.

Transfer block numbers so its 1,3,1,2 going counter clockwise. 1=wheelie 3=front planted mine are in Pos 1 because thats what scissor contacts

 

[stevewithOCD]

#3 is most transfer? If i tighten front rear, it will give more ski lift, but stiffen over all ride? Is that correct?