newrx1toy2004
Extreme
Was left stranded in no mans land when my belt went for a sh%* with only 350k on my new RX1. When I went to change the belt, I found it about an inch into the secondary sheave. Then realized, the Japs don't supply a phillips screw driver in the tool kit to get the side panel off. Had to use my MXZ tool kit (which comes with a phillips screwdriver) to get the side off. Installed the new belt and it is still 1/4 inch into the secondary. Is it time to get this back to the dealer for a check up, or should I try shimming the adjuster bolts. Also I am not that impressed with the power from this machine. It actually doesn't start rolling till about 4500rpm and it gets it's #*$&@ spanked by my buddies 2000 SRX. Any help is well absorbed. Thankx guys.
nhrxrider
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
There is something wrong. I'm still on my original belt at around 3500 miles. I changed it once near the end of last season to see if there was any performance difference between my old belt and a new one, and there wans't, so I put the old one back on.
As for the screwdriver, there was one in my tool kit...in fact the kit is right here, since its not in the sled any more. The tool kit definately has sone cheap #*$&@ tools for such an expensive sled though. I'd pick up a tool wrap pouch, and buy some Craftsman or other half decent tools and make up your own tool kit. I'm sure you'll find other things to add to it, such as zip-ties, some tape, and other things.
About getting spanked...on trails I can hold my own against MXZ 700s all day long except right off the line, and thats just because my finger(less) track doesn't get any traction. I'm slow off the line, then I make up the distance and can get by 700s, and stay with 800s. I'm hoping once I get my new track I'll be better off. My '03 track is about bald since all the damn fingers broke off. Very scary looking now.
Jim
As for the screwdriver, there was one in my tool kit...in fact the kit is right here, since its not in the sled any more. The tool kit definately has sone cheap #*$&@ tools for such an expensive sled though. I'd pick up a tool wrap pouch, and buy some Craftsman or other half decent tools and make up your own tool kit. I'm sure you'll find other things to add to it, such as zip-ties, some tape, and other things.
About getting spanked...on trails I can hold my own against MXZ 700s all day long except right off the line, and thats just because my finger(less) track doesn't get any traction. I'm slow off the line, then I make up the distance and can get by 700s, and stay with 800s. I'm hoping once I get my new track I'll be better off. My '03 track is about bald since all the damn fingers broke off. Very scary looking now.
Jim
Tom-RX1
Expert
PUt the ripsaw on mine and now it stayes with the 800's off the line as well . it leaves them at abut 80 mph .
Tom-RX1
Tom-RX1
JDKRXW
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
newrx1toy2004 said:
Whey you find one to replace the one that was in your toolkit, make sure it's a #3 phillips, not a #2. You WILL round out body screws with one that's too small.
YamahaRx-Warrior
Expert
No need to take the side cover off when you change the belt.
I rode 4000 miles last year ont he orignal belt without no problems. You must have an alighent problem or a bad belt .
Justin
I rode 4000 miles last year ont he orignal belt without no problems. You must have an alighent problem or a bad belt .
Justin
newrx1toy2004
Extreme
The next day after I got home, I checked the operation of the new belt. I had a buddy lift the rear end while I gave the track a good spin, and when it stopped turning the belt was a good 1/2 inch into the secondary sheave. It looks to me as though the spring is not strong enough to pull the secondary back together and force the belt back out to the top. Oh by the way I did find the phillips screwdriver in the tool kit. Also with the belt off, should I be able to tern the secondary and complete shaft back and forth about an inch and a half??? It seems like a lot of play to me.
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Yeah, there's a lot of movement on the shaft. Particularly with reverse.
To change the belt: Its not like the old sleds where you have to take the side off... I remember messing with my Exciter, whole side had to come off.... just pull the pin from the belt guard, lift it off, and reach in.
To change the belt: Its not like the old sleds where you have to take the side off... I remember messing with my Exciter, whole side had to come off.... just pull the pin from the belt guard, lift it off, and reach in.
RX-1snow
Extreme
You definitely have a problem.
Check the secondary spring settings . Set them at ~ 70 degree twist . Add the two numbers that the spring ends insert into and then multiply by 10 to get the twist degree. The higher the twist the quicker the backshift.
Check sheave offset It should be 15 mm +/- 1.5 mm. This willcause early belt wear and hotter belts.
Also make sure your track is not too tight.
Check the secondary spring settings . Set them at ~ 70 degree twist . Add the two numbers that the spring ends insert into and then multiply by 10 to get the twist degree. The higher the twist the quicker the backshift.
Check sheave offset It should be 15 mm +/- 1.5 mm. This willcause early belt wear and hotter belts.
Also make sure your track is not too tight.
newrx1toy2004
Extreme
Tonight me and a couple of buddies tightened and aligned the track. The track was quite loose. Then one buddy decided to take the secondary sheave off. The stock black spring was in the hole numbered 3. We figured we would put the spring in the hole numbered 6 to see what change we would notice. When I took it for spin, I noticed I had a lot more bottom end, it actually pulled the ski's and my track is not studded, and it seemed to top out at 10,000 rpm. The belt still stays down in the sheave about at least an 1/4 inch. Was this the right thing to do with the spring or should I just get this thing back to the dealer??
RobX-1
VIP Member
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newrx1toy2004, stock spring tension on the secondary is 3-3 or 60 degrees. When you inserted the one end of the spring in the number 6 hole, did you leave the other end in the 3 hole? If so, you are now running at 90 degrees. I have the Yamaha silver secondary spring and have it wrapped to 80 degrees (#6 hole - #2 hole). Having it at 90 degrees could explain why you're hitting a wall at 10000 RPMs
newrx1toy2004
Extreme
the spring was only moved on the outside to the number 6 so I guess you would be right as to the degrees being at 90. Is this a bad thing?? What color spring do you recommend and at which holes work the best. What should the top RPM be??
