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Brand New to the Nytro game but I'm going all in!

I just got the front end all aligned and ready to go so I should be all set for the snow. Unless I decide to change more things LOL. I think I'll run my Mavrick track for the first part of the season until it goes to hell then swap out to the new Power Claw.

An thoughts of changing the stock drives out when I swap the tracks?
 

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Thanks! Just waiting for the new track from my friend and that should about do it.

If anyone knows of something else that should be or could be done let me know, LOL.
 
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OK I put my POS Mavric track on a diet today.
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I only used the track for maybe 500 miles max last year & before that it had a couple hundreds on it out in Wyoming in the sugar snow (the only thing this track is good for if that). It was already curling over & starting to tare. To prolong its life in Wisconsin & the UP when I make it there I cut the track down to a 2" track. Taking a 1/2" off actually seems to help stiffen the paddles up. I have a 2.6 power claw in the garage but I wanted to get some early season miles on in southern WI which isn't ideal for the PC LOL. So this is what I ended up with:
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So I should get some more track life & speed out of it. I let you guys know how it works out.
 
Everyone hates the Maverick track I think except me. I have a powder claw 2.25" track I installed last year and I am going to put the maverick track back on. I found the powder claw was only good in deep snow and no better in the deep snow then the maverick. On the trail the maverick hooks up 10 times better then the PC track. I did trim mine to 2" and it has shown a few small cracks at the base of the lugs in 2000 miles but nothing to make me worry.
 
I can see the Maverick track being a lot better at 2" but to cut 2.5" track down to make it better, that doesn't make sense. The maverick has its place but in stock form it wasn't holding up for me. Now it did work just fine but just wore fast.
 
Maybe the new 2.6 PC will be stiffer then the older PC. I think mine measured 2.25 " maybe it was 2.5" can't remember off hand but I wouldn't cut the PC down to 2" , I don't think it would gain any more traction. The whole lug is to soft. Unfortunately for the 153" and 162" class there is not a lot of tracks to choose from. I would like to try the Peak track but at $1100 CDN it's not going to happen anytime soon. I don't have any steep hills in my riding area so I don't need the best of the best.

Do give back a report on the 2.6" PC when you do get a chance to ride and evaluate it. I would like to hear your thoughts on it. I jumped on the PC track wagon and just didn't see a improvement anywhere I ride. I know with the stock maverick track I never lost a hole shot to any 1100 turbo cat. Lost when I had the same track as them. That was enough for me to switch back.
 
From what I've read there where a few different Duro ratings (stiffness) on the PC. I believe they were 80,85 and I think the newer ones are 90 with the higher number being stiffer (if I'm wrong someone will speak up, forums are great for that LOL) . As for the PC I wouldn't cut it down but with the Maverick I felt I had to or it would just chunk out.
I agree there are only 4 real tracks guys are running on the 153 platform Peak, PC, CE and Maverick or you could but a bigger wheel kit on and go with 159 but I'm not sure if that will get anymore options. I was looking for a CE but the price tag was hard to swallow.

I'll defiantly give feed back on the cut down Maverick performance and the new PC once I get it on.
 
You'll love the PC. Last year on my '09 I switched out my Mav to a CE 153x2.5 and would never run a maverick on any sled again. When you switch out tracks, get some 7t Avid drivers also. Can run your track looser and not have to worry about ratcheting. Then you'll be able to feel the full benefits of the track and turbo.

Cool build. Interested to see how it all works on the snow.
 
I was wondering about the drivers when I switch the track out. If the drivers are fine I might just leave them for this year and change them out next summer. I actually didn't have any issues with ratcheting last year but I do see the benefits to running the track looser! We already have a trip planned to the UP for early December (as long as there is snow) so I'll burn up the Mav on that trip and give the sled a full shake down.
 
The stock drivers on the SE Nytros are Yamaha's version on an extrovert driver. They work just like Wahl Bro's which is what I am using, but are significantly heavier because they aren't one piece. If they aren't worn to the point of replacement, I'd wait a year. But then again, you have to pull the axle out anyways, so why not just do it all at once?
 
What's the typical price for a set of drives and which ones do I go with Wahl or Avid? I know I can check that out myself but just don't have the time right now and it's always interesting to hear what people say. Ya that's what I'm trying to decide on right now. Since I'm going to have it all apart to change the track why not just do the drives as well.

My friends are heading to the UP tomorrow for some early season fun but I was already off work all last week for hunting and there is no way the wife will let me away again. So I'm hoping to get a chance and try all the new set-ups on the sled.
 
Just got the new Avid drives for the girl for Christmas.
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Ok I finally got out on the sled for it's first real shake down and test to see how everything worked. I was able to put 200 trail miles on the sled and alittle of trail and here's what I found out:

1) The Rust Oleum 2 part water repellent coating just kind a pealed off and didn't work. So back to the drawing board for the tunnel icing. Now the temp out was single digits and there was a ton of tunnel icing and that #*$&@ sucks! There has got to be something that works!
2) Arctic Cat brake lever / Head light switch worked like a champ
3) The DPDT hand / thumb warmer toggle switch worked with no issues
4) I had one issue with my teether switch being loose and keep cutting power to the sled. Ended up being operator error I just didn't have the teether locked on well. Worker fine the rest of the time.
5) Stripping all the extra #*$&@ off the handle bars priceless and worth the effort!
6) Cut down Marvric track (down to 2" from 2-1/2") I was pleasantly surprised how well the cut down track worked. It's not perfect but the cut down track worked much better than the stock length. If your not off trail all the time I would recommend doing this to extend the life of the track.
7) Z-Broz 39" front with the ski set wide worked great on the trail and didn't seem tippy. I didn't get off trail enough to test it out that way but from what I did do it seemed easy to tip it when I wanted to. I might need to make a little air pressure adjustment up front. Running the stock MTX skis with Studboy duellies for now but will be switching to 7" shapers soon.
8) MPI heat exchanger (full rad delete) with cable scratchers down ran at 154 degrees on the trail and when I got into the pow she dropped into the 140's. The temp sensor is plumbed right into the T-stat housing. The one issue I did have with the cooler was my track hit the rear of the cooler just a little bit (see picture).
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Now when I installed the cooler the directions were very poor and Matt at MPI even told me that himself so I but it were I thought it would be fine. now I am running a Push Turbo and the tolerances are tight but the cooler will fit, I just didn't mount the cooler far enough forward the first time which caused the track to hit. So I relocated the cooler 3-1/4" farther forward (not sure why I didn't just do that in the first place) and now it should be fine. Here's a picture showing the new location. The front of the cooler is about 4" from the front of the tunnel.
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The cooler is close to the header and silencer but it's rock solid and isn't moving.
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Overall the coolers construction and finish is top notch but it is a tight fit with a Push Turbo.

I'm happy how the sled ran and operated now to get out more and play!
 


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