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C&A skis making my sled turn hard?

I run C&A razors on my Viper. Yes they are aggressive and with a single runner carbide they will turn like driving a bulldozer. But here’s the magic trick. You don’t need different spring. You just need to swap out the single runner carbide with Woody’s Slim Jim Dually carbides. It will LITERALLY be night and day. The skid will still handle exactly how you like them, but they will steer with the ease of tuners. They are THAT GOOD! Been running the slim Jim combination on my C&As for a couple years now. They are great.
Who makes a dual runner carbide for c&a ski?, i cant find any, i was told that curve skis and c&a have the same stud pattern and doolys are available for curves so what gives.
 

I had the spring cranked up till i was bouncing like a kangaroo on a pogo stick over the slightest bump, it helped the steering effort but sled was barely rideable.
Dont forget your steering may have been broken even then. I am telling you CA's are not that hard steering unless real hardpack and there is no substitute for loose if you really want to turn. Murdered maybe your center shock is dead? When was your last refresh? They get moisture in them real fast and oil goes bad sooner than any shock on your sled just because of work center has to do. I know a guy who does shocks very inexpensivly for his friends especially!
 
Dont forget your steering may have been broken even then. I am telling you CA's are not that hard steering unless real hardpack and there is no substitute for loose if you really want to turn. Murdered maybe your center shock is dead? When was your last refresh? They get moisture in them real fast and oil goes bad sooner than any shock on your sled just because of work center has to do. I know a guy who does shocks very inexpensivly for his friends especially!
Center shock is not too bad, had to apply good pressure to get back in after spring swap, i know they worked pretty good last year and were ok on the first ride in Houghton, i checked all my steering components and is everthing is good.
 
picked up a 14 XTX last weekend, hardly any snow so I haven't been able ride it much, but the one thing I do notice above all while riding it is it is incredibly difficult to steer. I'm OK with a little effort, but this is ridiculous. I pretty much have to force them when I'm off the throttle. It came with C&A pros on it, I've never ridden one stock so I can't say if the C&A made it worse. Doing some research it's a talk about issue with the XTX models, so yesterday I ordered a 160 pound spring from zbros. After some more research today I have read many people saying C&A skis are difficult to turn on any sled, and with this one already being difficult it's really bad.

I am now wondering if I should've ordered a 135 pound spring, and get a set of curves skis instead of just the 160 spring. I weigh roughly 200 geared up. I have an issue with my shoulder so the easier the steering the better, wondering if anybody has any thoughts on this, because I still could call and change to a 135 lb spring considering it hasn't been sent out yet, and then get different skis.

Otherwise I can just see how it behaves with the 160 pound spring, maybe somebody has some first-hand experience.

Just got the sled and have asked many questions already and so far this site has been awesome I appreciate everyone's help on here.

I have a 17 L-TX-LE and my wing man has an X-TX-LE both have C&A pro and we has same issue and all was needed was tightening the front skid spring and boom it steers super easy


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Center shock is not too bad, had to apply good pressure to get back in after spring swap, i know they worked pretty good last year and were ok on the first ride in Houghton, i checked all my steering components and is everthing is good.
But it sounds like rebound control is gone if cranking spring up made it bounce like a pogo stick you are definitely in need of refresh at minimum. Just because it's hard to push in doesn't mean the oil isn't shot. Just means Nitrogen charge is good and the oil is still in there.
 
I run the C&A Razrs with 7.5 Shaper bars and can literally be standing up straight over the bars(no leverage) and go around a corner with 1 hand on the bars. I am by no means a big guy at 175# and still cannot figure out why everyone thinks that the Razrs turn so hard. My sled turns where I want it to go and I have ridden several hundred mile days and do not feel like I get an arm workout. I did have cannondale27 revalve my skid shocks so maybe you could try that. I am not convinced that there is a better ski and carbide combination for aggressive trail riding. My brother had the Razrs but did try the XCSs and they are too much for trail riding though.
 
I’m waiting for my 160lb spring to come in and see how it plays out. But I did order some Poo gripper skis because I didn’t want to miss out on The good price I got them for. If the spring doesn’t cut it then I’ll slap these on and try it, it it does I’ll sell or return the grippers. Basically I guess I’m gonna have to experiment some because what some consider hard steering, other consider great because it’s what they like, which is perfectly understandable. I hope the C&As work out tho cause I love the look of them and have a feeling if I can get them acceptable for me I’ll love the handling as well.
 
My friend has C&A's on his viper and moved them to his SW. After riding both with a the slim jim bar made a world of difference. Eased the steering effort and took the hunting away. Corners smooth and predictable now - On hard surfaces and corners with bushy snow piled up.
 
Little update, finally got my steering to loosen up, front shock preload was the culprit, who knew i only needed about 4 turns on the springs to fix everything, turns good now, also noticed less body roll and decreased turning radius.
 
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Curves with slim Jim on left, and standard skag on the ski. On harder snow, the slim Jims turned hard and caused some ski lift as the ski really wasn't doing its job. With the standard skag, the ski is into the snow, doing what the shape was designed to, with great precision and handling. However, the slim jims have zero darting,and decent turning for average riding. Aggressive riding, they push too much for me..with many 'uh oh' moments.
The single skag does make you feel a little side to side motion ( not really in the bars) under some trail conditions, but they steer easier and turn with virtually no push, and predictable. Just an observation.
 
Its like a light bulb just went on, i understand what i did wrong, check this out, last year i put the c&a xcs skis with 6" studboy shaper bar carbides and it steered descent, this year same skis and carbides but i changed the front suspension from the factory 42" to an mtx 38" with out a sway bar, 38-36 mtx have no swaybar except for the mtx 141" which is a 40" anyhow.
So i cranked the front ski shock preload way up to compensate for the ill handling and body roll with no swaybar, but wasn't happy without the swaybar, so it went back on, i made some custom lower a-arm swaybar brackets and welded them on and that's when my steering became hard.
Now with the swaybar tying both sides of the suspension together, it doubled the feeling of preload on the ski shocks as the suspension doesnt move independently anymore, causing the hard steering, lowered front ski shock preload and its back to were it was last year, steers good for such an aggressive ski.
 
Its like a light bulb just went on, i understand what i did wrong, check this out, last year i put the c&a xcs skis with 6" studboy shaper bar carbides and it steered descent, this year same skis and carbides but i changed the front suspension from the factory 42" to an mtx 38" with out a sway bar, 38-36 mtx have no swaybar except for the mtx 141" which is a 40" anyhow.
So i cranked the front ski shock preload way up to compensate for the ill handling and body roll with no swaybar, but wasn't happy without the swaybar, so it went back on, i made some custom lower a-arm swaybar brackets and welded them on and that's when my steering became hard.
Now with the swaybar tying both sides of the suspension together, it doubled the feeling of preload on the ski shocks as the suspension doesnt move independently anymore, causing the hard steering, lowered front ski shock preload and its back to were it was last year, steers good for such an aggressive ski.
Just gonna say that...lol!
My apex always handled the best with the heaviest swaybar, but the lightest ski spring preload, with very tight custom swaybar bushings so it pulls instantly on the other spring. Stock deltabox bushings had too much slop.
 
Its like a light bulb just went on, i understand what i did wrong, check this out, last year i put the c&a xcs skis with 6" studboy shaper bar carbides and it steered descent, this year same skis and carbides but i changed the front suspension from the factory 42" to an mtx 38" with out a sway bar, 38-36 mtx have no swaybar except for the mtx 141" which is a 40" anyhow.
So i cranked the front ski shock preload way up to compensate for the ill handling and body roll with no swaybar, but wasn't happy without the swaybar, so it went back on, i made some custom lower a-arm swaybar brackets and welded them on and that's when my steering became hard.
Now with the swaybar tying both sides of the suspension together, it doubled the feeling of preload on the ski shocks as the suspension doesnt move independently anymore, causing the hard steering, lowered front ski shock preload and its back to were it was last year, steers good for such an aggressive ski.
Dang was hoping to buy a set of CA's for my 800!
 
I have a 17 L-TX-LE and my wing man has an X-TX-LE both have C&A pro and we has same issue and all was needed was tightening the front skid spring and boom it steers super easy


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How much did you tighten the front spring?
 


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