Can you adjust idle/air mix on boosted 06 Apex? UPDATE**

[hobbes]

I believe I have the problem isolated down to the MAP sensor. I get 5 vdc to the sensor (blue wire) with the key on/eng off, but only 2.98 vdc out of the pink/white in the same position. According to the manual it's supposed to read between 4.75 and 5.25 out of the pink/white with the key on/eng off. This could be my idle problem too I'm guessing. What do you guys say?

 

[FLYBYU]

your positve lead goes in the pink/white and the negative goes into black/blue that would probally be your problem. just start it and pull that hose off and it will get super rich and foul plugs. Was your a/f really high? it has to between those numbers or it will go really fat at start up and stay there. make the hose is clear and take the sensor and warm it up and try checking the settings again. If their the same and out of tolerance, replace the sensor. That sensor is wired in with the tps to adjust throttle and fuel. Try that

 

[WesG]

Displaying the sensors

You can "see" what the sensors are telling the ecu via the diagnostic mode. Diagnostic2 is the atmospheric sensor value while diagnostic 3 is the intake value. With the sled off, they should be the same. You can check the intake sensor by cranking the motor without starting and seeing it change to less than the atmospheric value. Also I have had my crankcase oil breather ooze onto the atmospheric sensor and bugger it up. I cleaned it really well with electrical cleaner and it has been working perfectly.

 

[hobbes]

Well guys, I was wrong on the intake sensor. Here is what is happening. I've got the new sensor installed. When I go into diagnostic mode I get 96 for a atmospheric value and 9 for the intake value. When I crank the motor there is no change. I've installed the old intake sensor in place of the atmospheric sensor with no change at all in the values. I then unplugged my purelogic fuel controller and the value of the intake jumped to 86. Then when I start the motor and run it that value will go down to 80, the atmospheric of course stayed the same at 96. With those values it is still blinking code 20 (atmospheric and intake pressures too far apart). When I plug the Purelogic controller back in the atmos. is 96 and the intake is 9 (WTF). Any more ideas? I've got an old style Purelogic that plugs into the individual injectors (pita), should I be trying that? My biggest question is what are your guys's values?? How far apart are they when the sled is running?

I just ran the sled for a 3 day trip in Feb and other than idling either too high or too low it ran like a champ, just ripped. But this idle thing is really pissing me off! I miss my 2 STROKE gas, check, oil, check, compression, check, spark, check DONE! lmao Help guys!!

 

[Ted Jannetty]

Take that POC off and go with an RB3.

There are some wires in that system that had to be cut and spliced I would take a good hard look at your wire harness.

Remove Pure Logic box and solder and heat shrink all connections.

Ted.

 

[hlmrx1]

Wow this sounds like the exact same problem I have with mine, diag readings are the same as what you have, A/F goes high when I let it idle and stalls, seems to run fine otherwise. So far, I’ve tried replacing both sensors, the Intake air temperature sensor, checked the TPS, tried another ECU and another voltage regulator with no luck. I’ve also unplugged the fuel controller and ran the sled and the error did not go away. The voltage reading out on the intake sensor is around 4 volts for mine as oppose to the correct reading of 4.75 ~ 5.25 volts. I don’t recall if I checked the readings for diag 2 and 3 with the fuel controller unplugged. Can someone tell us what these should be on a good running sled? I’m anxious to get this resolved also, I’m at the point of starting from the beginning again with my troubleshooting. I’ll be watching this post and will let you know if I find the problem.

I noticed in your post of error codes in memory that you didn't have a code 20 listed, does it show in memory now? Mine does not indicate that code. Diag 62=1when cleared and code 20 doesn’t show in diag 61 at anytime. Waht is Diag 61 and 62 after you clear the codes?

 

[kinger]

How much does it take to get set up into a RB3? what kind of support is out there for tuning it?

On the idle thing my MPI did that and I just adjusted my gems and leaned it out and mine idles like a champ now. Sure its not the controller?

 

[hobbes]

When I replaced the old PL box with the new one I soldered and shrink wraped the all the wires. I'm 99.9% sure that isn't the problem. Before I replace the new box with the old one I'd like to hear some values for the atmospheric and intake sensors on your diagnostics. I tried to clear all the codes but code 20 will not clear, it does show that there is 1 code but it won't show what code it is in the diagnostic mode. It just flashes at me while the ignition is turned on or the sled is running.

What I don't get is why would my values be 95 and 86 with the PL box unhooked? After resting there overnight shouldn't they be the exact same? This tells me I have some kind of problem other than the PL box and the PL box is just magnifying it? Thanks for all the help guys.

PS Ted, I'm trying to hold out until these new closed loop controllers come out, but the RB3 has been in the back of my mind for sure. I just think this problem is a seperate issue from the controller.

 

[WesG]

Clearing that D@MN Code 20

FYI my values when shut off with my PL box in the loop are 91(atmo) and 10(intake). In order to fully clear the code 20, you have to unhook the PL box and take it out of the intake pressure sensor wiring(put the intake sensor wiring back to stock). Then you need to start the sled to get the values close. Shut it off, clear the codes in the diag mode. start it again to ensure no codes show up. Double check the diag mode. Finally resolder the pl box in and you should be good to go. MAKE sure you do not turn the key on with either of these sensors unhooked or you will get that code back! I have found this must be done in this sequence everytime you get a code 20. Otherwise it just sits in there and never goes away.

 

[hobbes]

How close do these values have to be Wes? I've got the new PL box that doesn't solder inline, it just plugs into the main wiring harness, not into the intake sensor and the individual injectors. So when I unplug the PL box it's completely out of the system. Then the values show 95 and 86. Is that close enough to clear? Not sure if I've tried to clear it in that sequence yet, I'll go try now. And if that does clear the code 20, that still doesn't fix my goofy idle problem, it's still either too high or too low.

 

[hobbes]

I thought I'd give you guys an update. After chasing this stupid high idle problem for almost a year now, and checking and rechecking everything over, I decided that it must be a mechanical issue and started inquiring about rebuilding the head. To make a long story short I ended up getting ahold of Val Simmons to ask about rebuilding my head or possibly just purchasing a new one. After telling him my story he says, "Did it ever backfire on you?" I answered "Yep." I guess it has happened to both Val and Brad Story and when your sled backfires hard enough it can tweak the butterflys in your throttle bodies. So I swaped mine for a set off of a buddy's sled and BAM, idles like a CHAMP. So damn happy I almost pee'd. Val's lucky he wasn't around or I would have planted one on him!

I took my old TB's outside and held them up to the sun, 1-2 looked shut down fine, 3-4 showed light like crazy! But looking at them inside, they all looked fine. Crazy stuff. Anyway, my head is perfect, sled idles, life is good, thanks all for the advice!

 

[mbarryracing]

I was gonna say, your symptoms sound exactly like what BigMooseTurbo had going on and after replacing all the sensors, finally replacing the actual throttle body assy took care of the problem. It appeared to the the IAC valve because it closed off completely and quit flowing air at idle...

 

[rxrider]

If the butterflies were off only and not hurt, syncronizing the butterfly would take care fo the problem. If the rail is hurt, that's another story.