S pump
Extreme
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Just a heads up fro those tackling Jackshft bearing replacement. I followed the write up from Lakercr on Jackshaft bearing replacement. Overall a great help but for you Apex owners be careful not to lose the two bushings when you pull the shaft through the clutch side to get at the bearing. There are two spacer/bushings that mate with the back of the chaincase that fall off when you pull the shft out. Mine hung up on the top of the exhast gaurd and with some effort I think I goot them back on correctly. The attached link is the original but be careful not to lose those parts as they will end up in the belly pan without much effort............................just wish someone mentioned that little technicality.
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... Track.html
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles ... Track.html
S pump,
You are saying there are 2 spacers between the chaincase seal and the C clip on the jackshaft? I just put mine back together and I only have one. Is one a full sized spacer like a half inch thick and the other more of a washer sized spacer, or are they both thick? I am looking at the exploded view and can only make out one......
Clutch side, is the secondary clutch supposed to have any side to side play once fully assembled? I thought it did before I took it apart, but does not now. If a spacer is missing on the chaincase side, that would make total sense.
Mike
You are saying there are 2 spacers between the chaincase seal and the C clip on the jackshaft? I just put mine back together and I only have one. Is one a full sized spacer like a half inch thick and the other more of a washer sized spacer, or are they both thick? I am looking at the exploded view and can only make out one......
Clutch side, is the secondary clutch supposed to have any side to side play once fully assembled? I thought it did before I took it apart, but does not now. If a spacer is missing on the chaincase side, that would make total sense.
Mike
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Parts Diagrams show only one spacer? Item # 17. Unless your talking about Items 20 & 21. (On older models, the numbers are 16, 19 & 20 respectively)
You may want to consider clicking here for Parts Manual Diagrams and put in your year and model. Under the "Secondary Sheave" folder, they show the detail.
You may want to consider clicking here for Parts Manual Diagrams and put in your year and model. Under the "Secondary Sheave" folder, they show the detail.
Thanks Len,
I think there may be a misunderstanding here. I believe I have the secondary sheave side correct, all spacers and bushings are in order, it is the chaincase side that I was having an issue with. Your link to the Yamaha parts finder is awesome, thanks!
If you look in the track drive 2 section (chaincase side) my question was answered and there is indeed only one spacer between the oil seal of the chaincase and the "C" clip on the chaincase side of the jackshaft.
Could you tell me if there is supposed to be side to side play with the secondary sheave? Meaning the whole secondary unit, not moving the sheaves apart....I could have sworn that the secondary would move side to side on the bushing before I disassembled it, but it is solid as a rock now...
Thanks for you help!!
Mike
I think there may be a misunderstanding here. I believe I have the secondary sheave side correct, all spacers and bushings are in order, it is the chaincase side that I was having an issue with. Your link to the Yamaha parts finder is awesome, thanks!
If you look in the track drive 2 section (chaincase side) my question was answered and there is indeed only one spacer between the oil seal of the chaincase and the "C" clip on the chaincase side of the jackshaft.
Could you tell me if there is supposed to be side to side play with the secondary sheave? Meaning the whole secondary unit, not moving the sheaves apart....I could have sworn that the secondary would move side to side on the bushing before I disassembled it, but it is solid as a rock now...
Thanks for you help!!
Mike
culvert
Expert
I have mine apart right now and have a couple questions. How do you get the jackshaft brg lock ring tight?? prt# 18 & 19. I have held the nut with a spanner wrench and tried turning the secodary to tighten but the locking threads just spin on shaft. It only goes so far finger tight and I cant get anymore on it. If I hold the lock ring the shaft just tuns inside.
Second is on the chaincase side. There is a washer under the top gear nut and it is cupped. prt#53 Which direction does the cup ( face. cup to motor ( or to brake )?
As for the side to side play in secondary clutch I had play before I started and hope it is there after.
Second is on the chaincase side. There is a washer under the top gear nut and it is cupped. prt#53 Which direction does the cup ( face. cup to motor ( or to brake )?
As for the side to side play in secondary clutch I had play before I started and hope it is there after.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
You should have axial end-play of about .060". The secondary moves back and forth on the jackshaft. Did you change the bearing location on the jackshaft?
I've got to go out for a while. please tell me what work you did. Then, I'll think this over later tonight.
I've got to go out for a while. please tell me what work you did. Then, I'll think this over later tonight.
Len,
I replaced all 5 bearings in the drive train (including the one in the cover), then reassembled. I followed several posts here and took decent notes on the secondary sheave side, but not so good on the chaincase side. I believe I have all the components in the correct location, the gears apprear to be lined up and I tightened the collar/nut on the bearing behind the secondary last, to keep everything in alignment. Then I put the secondary back on and when I bolt it tight, there is zero axial movement.
Thanks in advance for info and advice, this is an excellent forum,
Mike
I replaced all 5 bearings in the drive train (including the one in the cover), then reassembled. I followed several posts here and took decent notes on the secondary sheave side, but not so good on the chaincase side. I believe I have all the components in the correct location, the gears apprear to be lined up and I tightened the collar/nut on the bearing behind the secondary last, to keep everything in alignment. Then I put the secondary back on and when I bolt it tight, there is zero axial movement.
Thanks in advance for info and advice, this is an excellent forum,
Mike
leepster
Extreme
spacer
Ok, did mine over a month ago and now I dont remember if I put that spacer in or not, I had no left over parts and I'm fairly certain it is not in the belly pan because i had to fish a bolt out of there and it want in there. Is there anyway of seeing it with out taking it all apart again?
Ok, did mine over a month ago and now I dont remember if I put that spacer in or not, I had no left over parts and I'm fairly certain it is not in the belly pan because i had to fish a bolt out of there and it want in there. Is there anyway of seeing it with out taking it all apart again?
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
culvert said:Second is on the chaincase side. There is a washer under the top gear nut and it is cupped. prt#53 Which direction does the cup ( face. cup to motor ( or to brake )?
As for the side to side play in secondary clutch I had play before I started and hope it is there after.
The cup goes against the gear. The center of the cup should touch the nut.
There was a good thread on the second question. I just have to search a bit to find it.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Mike Kroener said:Len,
I replaced all 5 bearings in the drive train (including the one in the cover), then reassembled. I followed several posts here and took decent notes on the secondary sheave side, but not so good on the chaincase side. I believe I have all the components in the correct location, the gears appear to be lined up and I tightened the collar/nut on the bearing behind the secondary last, to keep everything in alignment. Then I put the secondary back on and when I bolt it tight, there is zero axial movement.
Mike
Are you sure you have all the washers on the secondary bolt. If you left one out, you could preclude axial endplay.
But, if they are all in there, then you have moved the bearing on the shaft. I would go back an look for the reason for this. To get an idea of how much things moved, check the Clutch to Secondary offset. This will tell you if you have the secondary in the right place.
Do you have washer #17 on the Chaincase side of the circlip # 16?
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Re: spacer
If you are not sure, take it apart and look. Practice makes perfect. I have had several apart, several times, because I was not sure (e.g. loose pin in the idlers, thin washer on the center post, etc.)leepster said:Ok, did mine over a month ago and now I dont remember if I put that spacer in or not, I had no left over parts and I'm fairly certain it is not in the belly pan because i had to fish a bolt out of there and it want in there. Is there anyway of seeing it with out taking it all apart again?
culvert
Expert
thanks Len, you are a great help.
i had everything laid out in order, then had a buddy come over and toss all parts in the chain case cover. He didnt want to bump something and have it fall on the floor when he was using my work bench.
So now I have to figure out which washers and spacers go where.
i had everything laid out in order, then had a buddy come over and toss all parts in the chain case cover. He didnt want to bump something and have it fall on the floor when he was using my work bench.
So now I have to figure out which washers and spacers go where.
Yes sir, you are correct, I left out Washer #17 which goes between the circlip and the collar. It is a little difficult to grasp as they show the washer and circlip on the secondary sheave drawing but they are actually on the chaincase side....I understand now.
I found the washer in question, and will be "practicing" again tomorrow.
Thanks again for your help.
Mike
I found the washer in question, and will be "practicing" again tomorrow.
Thanks again for your help.
Mike
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