The wear on the gear isn't anything new since this chaincase debuted on Cats in 2012. Lots of movement in these chain cases. I would take a good look once I got 3-4 thousand miles on it and see how bad the wear is.
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Another thing to remember on this....when I took mine apart the 1st time to get ready for asphalt, I had to take the oil tank off. This time I realized my foot well was pushed up so I took a piece of wood and gave it a tap for more clearance. Came right off then.
If you take your oil chamber apart....you will need to clean everything and put new form a gasket between the chaincase and oil tank. It's not a huge deal....but a pain never the less. Plus....the baffle in the oil tank is loose so if your not ready for it...it will come out easily when tipped.
If you take your oil chamber apart....you will need to clean everything and put new form a gasket between the chaincase and oil tank. It's not a huge deal....but a pain never the less. Plus....the baffle in the oil tank is loose so if your not ready for it...it will come out easily when tipped.
Those are pretty close to my measurements. So how far do we let them wear?
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I put the gears together last night to see what kind of play i had between the 2 gears....I only feel a little bit so I will be replacing mine if it gets past 1.008"
Might back off a little more for chain slop as I want to make sure that gear pops in and out of reverse. Plus, those gears are together to drive the seld. I don't want to start messing up the splines on the shaft by the gears flopping around.
Might back off a little more for chain slop as I want to make sure that gear pops in and out of reverse. Plus, those gears are together to drive the seld. I don't want to start messing up the splines on the shaft by the gears flopping around.
Nytros rule
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When you were in there did you figure out where the chain case vents.
I serviced my wifes sled today and had milky oil in the chain case (water in oil).
I was in the chain case last year when I did the 800K service, mostly to see what was in there, type of chain/gears reverse setup etc.
I put in fresh oil at that time and the sled has only made 1000 K since.
I have no evidence of an external leak on the case or the bearings which should mean no oil out no water in, but?
Vents right here. Right into the wobble bearing. Bad spot. Track can throw water right up there through tunnel hole. I may add a hose.
Like the picture shows. The nipple without a hose and if you extended it the exhaust would probably melt the hose.
2014 viper, mpi
2009 Phazer 144"
2014 viper, mpi
2009 Phazer 144"
Yes and don't want to kink hose. Need a elbow of some sort.
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Couple tips
This is the best tool I have bought in a while. Got it from Matco tool guy. Makes getting those clips on and off so easy.
This is the best tool I have bought in a while. Got it from Matco tool guy. Makes getting those clips on and off so easy.
When putting cover back on. Loctite then thread every screw in with fingers as far as possible. Then use a screwdriver type driver to just seat the cover. You will feel it. Do it in two or three steps tightening as you would a tire rim cross pattern. Finally use a small 1/4in ratchet with extension same pattern as before tighten them tight or torque them.
TestMaster
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2014 SR Viper LTX DX
2001 Venture 600
Given to a friend - 1998 SRX 700s
Torque for chaincase cover is 105 inch/lbs. Or 8.75 ft/lbs. Page 18 of 2014 viper operators manual, left column top. Do not exceede that torque and insure,that the holes are free of debris. Use blue torque retention locktite,
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml
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When do you guys think you should first adjust your chaincase tension? I have 105 miles on the new sled. And is everyone doing the finger tight then 1 1/4 turns back??
TestMaster
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Given to a friend - 1998 SRX 700s
I took my sled in at just over 300
Miles and had oil filter, and chaincase fluid serviced the chaincase was adjusted at the same time. Service manual says finger tight then back off 1 1/4 turn. The 2014 Operators Manual are wrong they call for 1/4 turn back off!
The gear and install was covered by Yamaha so if wear is evident the gear is junk. Sadly I think this is going to be a yearly thing since new gear is exactly same as old. I did fill chaincase to top of sight glass hoping more oil will help. Used Yamaha oil so will see next spring. Glad Yamaha stands behind it as a proactive measure before it actually strands a guy.
kodak
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
decided to post questions here since info can stay in one place. Canondale I am looking to do least possible to get track out since I only have 900 km and service was not that long ago .can I not take off oil cover and remove gear case as one piece and can I get away with only letting bottom gear go to remove the axel
