titanrcr
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Where is there a rubber shim in a primary?
Where is there a rubber shim in a primary?
The rubber shim between the clutch guard and the fuel tank is what NOS was referring to.
My primary feels like it has orings to the shaft that slide, but with relatively steady resistance is the best way to describe it.
There is some dust, but that is on underside of the guard.
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titanrcr
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The rubber shim between the clutch guard and the fuel tank is what NOS was referring to.
My primary feels like it has orings to the shaft that slide, but with relatively steady resistance is the best way to describe it.
Gotcha on the shim. So the resistance in the primary should be coming from some belt dust build up in the slider area or towers in the primary and can be cleaned out with a spray solvent and blown out, second area of concern would be the shaft itself where the bushing would slide between the movable and fixed halves of the clutch. With the resistance your feeling trying to move the primary I can understand the black marks half way up the faces.
Did the clutching seem to perform properly at first and then develop these problems after some riding time?
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
TDmax you may have seen my post about the primary sticking. On our red Viper we ran the 8jp for about 50 miles and got enough belt dust into the primary to cause sticking. With the cover and belt off I would force the primary as far shut as it would go and pull out and steel wool off the black line on the clutch shaft and do again until the outer sheave moved freely. Big change on engagement and shifting. And hey its a FREE test!
stingray719
TY 4 Stroke God
Gotcha on the shim. So the resistance in the primary should be coming from some belt dust build up in the slider area or towers in the primary and can be cleaned out with a spray solvent and blown out, second area of concern would be the shaft itself where the bushing would slide between the movable and fixed halves of the clutch. With the resistance your feeling trying to move the primary I can understand the black marks half way up the faces.
Did the clutching seem to perform properly at first and then develop these problems after some riding time?
As the cover has fiber something bushing and there may be others I would not use any kind of solvent.....but that's just me.
titanrcr
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As the cover has fiber something bushing and there may be others I would not use any kind of solvent.....but that's just me.
Yes it does have a fiber bushing in the outer cover but not affected by a solvent spray and a blowout. I use Brake Clean and have for years, never really have a problem with the fiber bushing. Not much stress on that cover bushing at all.
Also the cover would normally be off at this point.
Kerrdog569
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I lik to use acetone personally,put some on a paper towel and the belt residue wipes right off and acetone evaporates instantly leaving nothing behind,I agree with stingray I think ya got some belt residue in the bushing and it's hanging up,my sno pro 440 did something very similar
shagman
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X2 acetone.
titanrcr
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X2 acetone.
Yea I have absorbed plenty of that acetone into my body over the years as well, bottom line, do whatever it takes to clean the shaft and towers. Next issue, why did his clutch develop so much belt dust at only two hundred miles to cause this problem? I would guess belt brake in and loose deflection.
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Not much to clean out really. I did clean and polish what I could. The resistance is definitely from the plastic bushings. I can hear the same machine marks sing when sliding that I hear with emery. I have it back together now and swill see what happens.
Right, wrong, or otherwise, I ended up using a couple drops of my Eezox gun lube and the stiction seemed much less. This stuff will not attract or hold dirt it dries completely and works wonders on things that stick.
Just scrubbed the belt in dish soap and warm water. Rinsed and letting it dry now.
Right, wrong, or otherwise, I ended up using a couple drops of my Eezox gun lube and the stiction seemed much less. This stuff will not attract or hold dirt it dries completely and works wonders on things that stick.
Just scrubbed the belt in dish soap and warm water. Rinsed and letting it dry now.
titanrcr
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Not much to clean out really. I did clean and polish what I could. The resistance is definitely from the plastic bushings. I can hear the same machine marks sing when sliding that I hear with emery. I have it back together now and swill see what happens.
Right, wrong, or otherwise, I ended up using a couple drops of my Eezox gun lube and the stiction seemed much less. This stuff will not attract or hold dirt it dries completely and works wonders on things that stick.
Just scrubbed the belt in dish soap and warm water. Rinsed and letting it dry now.
It's not easy to get the dust out of the tower bushings, they hold the belt dust captive! I would still check deflection-track creep at idle...
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Ulmer had me set with 1mm shim. I added a second. I have good plenty belt above the top of the secondary and no creep which is what I was shooting for actually.
titanrcr
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The belt above the top of the secondary is a quick down and dirty way to check where your at but still not a measure of deflection. You should know as soon as you pull away from a stop, if it jerks a bit the deflection is most likely too great.Ulmer had me set with 1mm shim. I added a second. I have good plenty belt above the top of the secondary and no creep which is what I was shooting for actually.
With a 1mm shim the "root" of the cog is about flush. 1.5mm shim I have belt side rubber showing. About 1/16" shows.
It's back together now and it is what it is. It is very difficult to modulate throttle and creep RPM up smoothly. I can hit 2700 easy enough, then try to progress up slow from there at best guess I have 3400 RPM engagement but it wants to kind of flash right past. This is with the 8FP setup that engages low and smooth for most.
Not much left to do now but ride the darn thing and hope it comes out of it's funk so I can come out of mine. At this point I'm so frustrated I'd rather hop on the Doo and ride. Problem is then I don't get the miles that I need for break in.
It's back together now and it is what it is. It is very difficult to modulate throttle and creep RPM up smoothly. I can hit 2700 easy enough, then try to progress up slow from there at best guess I have 3400 RPM engagement but it wants to kind of flash right past. This is with the 8FP setup that engages low and smooth for most.
Not much left to do now but ride the darn thing and hope it comes out of it's funk so I can come out of mine. At this point I'm so frustrated I'd rather hop on the Doo and ride. Problem is then I don't get the miles that I need for break in.
shagman
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I thought your first post said Ulmer kit???? What exactly is in there so that we can help diagnose. Both primary and secondary please.
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