Clutch offset question

[ROCKERDAN]

All,

Finally checked my bone stock, never ridden yet, 18 LTX, and it was .050 out with Hurricane Tool...

Gonna have .150 taken off shaft, more then I need, but want to still use washers as required to bring it back in.

I'd love to be a fly on the wall if Dave and the Yamaha engineer that figured out their spec ever had a discussion!

Just be aware not to take off more then flush(when fully shifted) If you take more then 3mm, you will need special shims made to fit inside the sheave. I took off 4mm as my stub shaft is pushed in about 1mm. And had custom shims made.

Dan

 

[snow_rider]

Good point, I had forgotten about that!

I'll cut back on the machining accordingly, I'll also be setting up my BOP adjuster as you have described as well.

Thanks Dan

 

[duhr8m]

don't over torque your primary or you'll have to start over

 

[STAIN]

This is how mine is set up.
First I set my offset with the hurricane offset tool.
Second I cut the aluminum plug to be flush with the clutch hub.View attachment 143009
This is my clutch bolt.View attachment 143010
The washer next to the aluminum plug holds my clutch from floating. The two small washers are used to set my belt deflection. I don't need to take my clutch apart to adjust deflection.

Maybe I am missing something but if people are locking their secondary down by placing a washer on the outside of the shaft, why keep the aluminum plug? At that point it doesn't do anything, does it? Aren't you tightening the secondary against the shaft? Am I not seeing something?
I ask because I am about to do the same thing and cant see the need to cut or keep the plug.

 

[1nc 2000]

The plug prevents a person from putting too much side load on the jackshaft bearing. The plug is a bottom stop for the washer.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I would not want that hollow entirely under secondary, and then the main bolt could bend easily. Best to shorten float plug if you want to reduce/remove float.

Dan

 

[cannondale27]

I dont see any reason for plug if totally removing float as long as you use a Thick enough washer that wont bend and bolt is strong enough to take some stretch. Risks not worth taking.

 

[KnappAttack]

I dont see any reason for plug if totally removing float as long as you use a Thick enough washer that wont bend and bolt is strong enough to take some stretch. Risks not worth taking.

If you don't use a plug to bottom the bolt on, you would put too much pressure on the circlip, and if the circlip wasn't there, you'd be trying to use the bolt to pull the shaft thru the driven. The plug is a good idea and something I wouldn't remove.

 

[Alsim]

I dont see any reason for plug if totally removing float as long as you use a Thick enough washer that wont bend and bolt is strong enough to take some stretch. Risks not worth taking.

The bolt seems not very strong. I broke mine with 43 foot pounds. I replaces it by 8.8 sae

 

[Alsim]

If you don't use a plug to bottom the bolt on, you would put too much pressure on the circlip, and if the circlip wasn't there, you'd be trying to use the bolt to pull the shaft thru the driven. The plug is a good idea and something I wouldn't remove.

I removed 3mm back the secondary and 3mm on the aluminum plug.

 

[cannondale27]

Yes Knapp makes good point about the clip too. Use the plug.

 

[baggs66]

Need to torque the primary 1st as stated above, i set my clutches up with daves tool, machined clutch so i could use 1mm shim, pulled primary put back on and now it's needs no shim to line up, so primary did pull in 1mm.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Need to torque the primary 1st as stated above, i set my clutches up with daves tool, machined clutch so i could use 1mm shim, pulled primary put back on and now it's needs no shim to line up, so primary did pull in 1mm.

You will find, if you clean the crank taper and inside taper of primary with brake clean or acetone, and then install primary....it will pop in when you lay into the high numbers of torque. Yamaha has a specific procedure and a very high amt of torque applied initially.

Dan

 

[baggs66]

You will find, if you clean the crank taper and inside taper of primary with brake clean or acetone, and then install primary....it will pop in when you lay into the high numbers of torque. Yamaha has a specific procedure and a very high amt of torque applied initially.

Dan



View attachment 143274

Yes thanks dan, that is how i installed, can't believe they are being done properly from factory if this is happening

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Yes thanks dan, that is how i installed, can't believe they are being done properly from factory if this is happening

Also don't forget, that some of us(me included) have the primary(stub shaft) pushed inward a tad. Mine is close to 1mm inward. The thinking is upon a snapped belt on hard acceleration, the primary moveable sheave can slam hard inward, which may have enough force to pop inward the stub shaft PTO bearing. When you remove your primary you can check the gap there.

Dan