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Clutch servicing

Thanks VX1R. I just sent them a message and left a vmail.

You are welcome. That's the great thing about this site. Members helping fellow members.

Please post your results once you get your clutching issues sorted out on your new to you Apex.

That '06 Apex GT is a sweet sled.

Cheers!

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In image 2220 you can see there may have been some rust there where the sliding sheave bushing was sitting. Other than that the main shafts look decent.
I don't think this clutch needs replaced, just someone who knows what they're doing to check it over and clean it.
 
So, went to a local "Powersports" shop this morning with Primary in hand and they "cleaned and balanced" it. Took less than an hour and charged me $85. Seemed good. It definitely moves a LOT better than it did before; (which was barely at all). Installed on sled, torqued to 85 then backed off and retorqued to 43. But it's sticking. It "works" in that it grabs the belt, but, it smokes it at first, and then when I jump the rpms up to about 4k, it'll snap over and grab.

Seems like that chum on the shaft is either still there or the shaft itself is compromised such that a smooth, even, travel is not possible. Here's a quick video without belt on:
 
But at the same time, the Secondary (Heel Clicker Super Torquer) is now in the cross hairs. The belt sits a good bit below the top/crest line of the sheaves, right about 1.5mm below. I believe it's a new belt. I measured the width of the belt at 35mm and where my manual says anything below 32.5mm is junk - this is a lot better than that.

As noted above, I think I still have work to do on the Primary as it seems a bit sticky, at rest, and needs more rpms than I would've thought to engage. And it's smoking the belt a bit until it grabs...

I've tried to find info on this Super Torquer and how to adjust it but not finding much. I obviously want to "suck in" the 2 sheaves a bit so that the top of the belt is just above the crestline of the sheaves... Does anyone know how to do that? Pic(s) of the Secondary below. Also included is a part that was loose in behind the clutch, between the frame and the motor. It threads into the center of the clutch area and I believe it's #19 in the attached Partszilla image; a nut bearing. Looks like I need a special tool to tighten this on, unless getting it hand-tight works until the run the track and it tightens itself...?
 

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@jpilk99

I received your email from 6:15pm last night and replied back to you. Just after I hit send, your email came in saying you found a local repair shop to do the work.

This is what I was afraid of....your pic images 2194, 2195 and 2221 all show that this clutch is put together wrong and is the cause for the issues you are having. The sliders are put in wrong and I am running into a lot of these clutches coming in. The torque side of the spyder should not have the o-ring sliders...it's for the non o-ring sliders. When force is applied, the o-ring crushes and the slider gets "cocked" in the pocket making the clutch not work correctly. In time these sliders will come apart and fling out, which is what happened to @cannondale27 as his clutch was put together wrong from the factory.

This clutch needs to come apart to fix the issue as it is put together incorrectly.
 
@jpilk99

I received your email from 6:15pm last night and replied back to you. Just after I hit send, your email came in saying you found a local repair shop to do the work.

This is what I was afraid of....your pic images 2194, 2195 and 2221 all show that this clutch is put together wrong and is the cause for the issues you are having. The sliders are put in wrong and I am running into a lot of these clutches coming in. The torque side of the spyder should not have the o-ring sliders...it's for the non o-ring sliders. When force is applied, the o-ring crushes and the slider gets "cocked" in the pocket making the clutch not work correctly. In time these sliders will come apart and fling out, which is what happened to @cannondale27 as his clutch was put together wrong from the factory.

This clutch needs to come apart to fix the issue as it is put together incorrectly.
Well, barf in my hat!!! I have a feeling the previous owner had it setup wrong and that the shop I brought it too just put it back together the way I brought it in. (Maybe not). Thank you for getting back to me. It sounds like I should just ship it to you - just need to weigh cost/time (to do it right). Thank you again!!!
 
Well, barf in my hat!!! I have a feeling the previous owner had it setup wrong and that the shop I brought it too just put it back together the way I brought it in. (Maybe not). Thank you for getting back to me. It sounds like I should just ship it to you - just need to weigh cost/time (to do it right). Thank you again!!!

You are welcome Jay...I wish I could have let you know as when I looked at TY, I saw the pics and was like....dang, it is put together wrong.

I started to type a comment and saw a post came in. So I stopped writing and saw that you brought it in somewhere. Then reading, I saw they just cleaned it. Wish I could have intercepted that before you brought it there.

Yes, send it in and it will be done right.
Terry
 
While I agree that the better place for the 0-rings is on the non-torque side, the way they are is how the factory installs them.
The operation of that clutch appears normal to me. If the belt is dropped down in the secondary like in that pic, the belt will smoke. The belt should sit slightly above the sheaves in secondary when the machine is stationary.
 
Does anyone know how to adjust the secondary? One video said to take bolts out of the inner sheave and remove a washer, this shortening the bolt and allowing outer sheave to come closer to inner.

There are no bolts on the inner sheave of this Super Torquer.
 
While I agree that the better place for the 0-rings is on the non-torque side, the way they are is how the factory installs them.
The operation of that clutch appears normal to me. If the belt is dropped down in the secondary like in that pic, the belt will smoke. The belt should sit slightly above the sheaves in secondary when the machine is stationary.

Yamaha messed up on the assembly. There should never be an o-ring slider on the torque side of the spyder. This breakdown shows correct, (but have seen breakdowns showing the other way from 2008 ...which is wrong).



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Thank you both for weighing in. I think I'm learning something :cool:. Wish I knew how to adjust secondary
 


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