Clutch temps

[swampcat]

Not really happy SO FAR. Brandy new 2016 LTX-LE, Venom kit, Gates carbon belt,8DN size. Just putzing around the neighborhood so far, maybe hit 40 mph, put a quick 2 miles on it, pulled the clutch cover, grabbed the secondary and WHOA. The hand thermometer says 140-150 degrees F. Now I am just coming off of a Cat turbo, so I know what a HOT clutch feels like. Was really hoping I was DONE with this problem.

 

[Studroes144]

Back in late 2013 when the first snochecks started to show up with did some testing comparing the yammi vs cat clutches (viper vs 7000) after 6 back to back wot 1/4 mile runs the cat was 20 degrees hotter on the belt and primary. I believe the review is posted in the FAQ section with recorded temps.

 

[Studroes144]

Had to look back at my video for temp numbers here they are:
Viper:171 belt
104 secondary
118 primary
Xf7000: 193 belt
123 secondary
120 primary

This is after 6 back to back long runs with a heavier rider on the viper by about 60 pounds.

 

[cannondale27]

Not really happy SO FAR. Brandy new 2016 LTX-LE, Venom kit, Gates carbon belt,8DN size. Just putzing around the neighborhood so far, maybe hit 40 mph, put a quick 2 miles on it, pulled the clutch cover, grabbed the secondary and WHOA. The hand thermometer says 140-150 degrees F. Now I am just coming off of a Cat turbo, so I know what a HOT clutch feels like. Was really hoping I was DONE with this problem.

It's not a problem till your belt slips or blows. Story. Back in 2012 was riding my Phazer with a F1100 na. He blew two belts that weekend. When second one blew I immediately removed the side panel on both sleds. Both were hot and seemed to be about same temp. Think about how bodywork is wrapped around Phazer clutch. No ventilation at all. Yet that sled has never blown a belt and could easily put 5000mi or more on one. Both sleds are close in power and speed. Yet the Cat blew belts. Don't worry. Breakin probably causes heat and so does just putting around. But it won't blow your belt. Enjoy the snow. Very jealous!

 

[swampcat]

Was just hoping the clutches would be cooler. Already pulled the foam, to allow more air flow, learned this from the hot cat, if this heat keeps up, Ill trim the batwing to let MORE air through. Need more test ride time before that though. Trying to get over to a friends yard where theres room to zoom. With NO frost in the ground what soever , not sure he would appreciate the dethatching job.

 

[cannondale27]

You can do what you like but I am telling you it's not a issue. Enjoy your new sled.

 

[shagman]

Was just hoping the clutches would be cooler. Already pulled the foam, to allow more air flow, learned this from the hot cat, if this heat keeps up, Ill trim the batwing to let MORE air through. Need more test ride time before that though. Trying to get over to a friends yard where theres room to zoom. With NO frost in the ground what soever , not sure he would appreciate the dethatching job.

Don't worry about heat. Let things get broken in. Like cannondale said ride and have fun, it's not a cat.


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[swampcat]

The good neighbor obliged me his yard, and proceeded to put on another quick 10 miles, after about 4, pulled the cover, only this time I had the point and shoot temp gun. 142 was the highest reading, good to know the HAND is still calibrated. Was 24 degrees out, in about 5 good inches of fresh. This thing sure does bark when you CRACK on it. Trying to be respectful of the lawn, but still seat the rings. The white hood and panels sure show the belt dust quick. Bad sign.

 

[cannondale27]

Did you put the temp gun on the rest of sled? Engine,jackshaft,primary,frame?

 

[swampcat]

No , this gun gives bad readings off of shiny surfaces. It likes dark or black stuff, I usually put a spot of black spray paint on clutches and such to shoot temps off of. Most of the time I will just lay HAND to it and check. You just know something is wrong when the temp aint right, be it hot or cold. Being around commercial refrigeration, heavy machinery, and atom smashers, has learned me.

 

[NOS-PRO]

What is your secondary wrapped at? 6-1?

My thoughts would be to wash the belt and scuff it with scotchbrite again (new belts should be washed and scotchbrited) and in the fresh snow wrap it at 6-2 or 6-3 till the belt breaks in good.

 

[swampcat]

Set up per instructions at 6-1. ALWAYS wash new belts. I hardly consider the 5" snow deep. So a 6-2,6-3 setting will slow the upshift ? I am still in Yamaha LEARNING mode.

 

[DC5]

Did you adjust the secondary for the longer belt?

 

[NOS-PRO]

Set up per instructions at 6-1. ALWAYS wash new belts. I hardly consider the 5" snow deep. So a 6-2,6-3 setting will slow the upshift ? I am still in Yamaha LEARNING mode.

A 6-2 or 6-3 will put more tension on the belt and sheaves for your secondary and keep it from slipping. Anytime you have higher temps....the belt is slipping a little.

Hang with me on how the secondary will be affected..... Right now, the secondary is opening up too fast (so it is shifting too fast allowing the belt to slip) at 6-1, making your sled act like it's in 2nd gear instead of 1st. Wrapping the spring tighter to 6-2-6-3...This will make the clutch grab the belt harder, keep the temps down and drive the track faster.

The numbers on the helix and secondary are used as a percentage number system. The more percentage (numbers added together), the more pressure that is put on the belt. My key to great shifts, power and speed is to have the secondary as soft as it can go without slipping the belt.

Example - 2 on the clutch sheave and 3 on the helix is 50% (add the 2 numbers and then place a 0 at the end. The higher the percentage, the more grab on the belt). In soft snow, off-trail and climbing hills I would use 6-3 or even 9-1 for slower top speeds. The 6-1 or 6-2 is for regular groomed trail where speeds are more and resistance is less (higher resistance would be like deep snow or loose snow).

3-3 = 60%
6-1 = 70%
6-2 = 80%
6-3 = 90%
9-1 = 100%
9-2 = 110%
9-3 = 120%

Hope this helps

 

[swampcat]

A 6-2 or 6-3 will put more tension on the belt and sheaves for your secondary and keep it from slipping. Anytime you have higher temps....the belt is slipping a little.

Hang with me on how the secondary will be affected..... Right now, the secondary is opening up too fast (so it is shifting too fast allowing the belt to slip) at 6-1, making your sled act like it's in 2nd gear instead of 1st. Wrapping the spring tighter to 6-2-6-3...This will make the clutch grab the belt harder, keep the temps down and drive the track faster.

The numbers on the helix and secondary are used as a percentage number system. The more percentage (numbers added together), the more pressure that is put on the belt. My key to great shifts, power and speed is to have the secondary as soft as it can go without slipping the belt.

Example - 2 on the clutch sheave and 3 on the helix is 50% (add the 2 numbers and then place a 0 at the end. The higher the percentage, the more grab on the belt). In soft snow, off-trail and climbing hills I would use 6-3 or even 9-1 for slower top speeds. The 6-1 or 6-2 is for regular groomed trail where speeds are more and resistance is less (higher resistance would be like deep snow or loose snow).

3-3 = 60%
6-1 = 70%
6-2 = 80%
6-3 = 90%
9-1 = 100%
9-2 = 110%
9-3 = 120%

Hope this helps

SURE does. Thanks, that explanation helped a LOT.