Clutching question

[stevewithOCD]

You may get a ton of answers here, but what exactly is in this kit needs to be answered first.
Did D&D test this set up or did you piece it together?
I can tell you from personal experience when i threw everything at my sled last year when i topped out at 105 speedo.
I went back to stock clutch parts & was up to 115 that same day. Same lake. Same...................ME!
I then put Dalton B/O in & it went to 120 with no other adjustments. Same day. Same lake. Same.................ME!
When i put my aftermarket clutch kit in with the Dalton spring i was still at 115ish. That's 10 mph with just a rear spring.

So my rear spring was the problem all along.
Hopefully your problem is that simple. If you consider $1000's worth of clutch parts & 4 weekends "simple".

I'll let the experts talk now.

 

[fatchance]

Disclaimer.....I'M NOT AN EXPERT! What I know for fact....What feels fast is usually not fast. What works for one person could be useless to another. Discuss set ups with members with similar intentions before making changes. Use GPS for real world results. Test test test. Don't be afraid to throw everything you have at it...... ONE PIECE AT A TIME. (This is what I have done...No better way to learn IMO). You will eventually find something that works for you, wether it be for lake racing at 300 lbs or trail riding at a buck 40.

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

It was the D&d Kit. The dalton 33-39 helix, magnaforce weights and their grey secondary spring. Its been iffy weather this winter and 2 hour tow to ride we didn’t get much time to try anything out.

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

What’s the dalton B/O (black orange?) primary or secondary?

 

[ClutchMaster]

Put the stock 35 helix back in and leave the rest. Your over shifting/slipping on top end.

 

[fatchance]

Plus, the reverse angle........meh.

 

[stevewithOCD]

What’s the dalton B/O (black orange?) primary or secondary?

The Black/Orange Dalton is a secondary spring. I was only using that as an example of how one component can screw it all up.
I think MrClutchMaster has a good point, even though he is only a Classic Member. LOL

 

[ClutchMaster]

Lmfao

 

[jonlafon1]

ONE piece at a time! Very good advise. I do like the “classic members advise” start with helix first!

The best thing I did with mine was to pick a secondary spring and keep wrapping it tighter each ride. Then check clutch temps while riding after good long pulls and after the ride remove secondary and check sheaves for black slip marks. If you can hold hands anywhere on clutches after hard pulls your temps are good. If you start with a soft enough setting on secondary spring you can actually feel the belt slipping in secondary. As you change the degree of wrap on secondary spring tighter you will feel better hook up and pull as you go faster And see less black marks on secondary sheaves. I like to keep going with secondary wrap until marks are gone and OR clutch temps raise. IT seems as OCD has mentioned and others the secondary spring is a big player on these winders. Many other factors involved for sure but don’t go changing more then one thing at a time.

 

[NOS-PRO]

Agreed, the stock sled will not pull the 39 angle on top end.

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

Nospro that’s biggest thing I was wondering. Then the srx went to 35-39 or was it 33-37? With good results too.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Nospro that’s biggest thing I was wondering. Then the srx went to 35-39 or was it 33-37? With good results too.

It’s not so much the fact that a 39 degree finish angle couldn’t be used with a stock Winder. You can “make” it work. Your shifting forces generated by the primary weights and spring will need to be calibrated too push with less force. If that force is too low the belt will begin to slip.
I would not doubt the fact that the setup worked on a Winder they used to test the setup. Just the fact that you had to remove weight from your arms tells me that your clutches have subtle differences from the machine that was used for testing. More than likely it’s an offset or parallel difference causing the secondary to be forced open easier.
Since we cannot easily adjust motor alignment the fix as of late, has been to just clutch around the issue.
Adding or removing belt tension in the problem area is the current fix.
I would also make sure your offset is around the 58mm mark before making any changes.

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

Well I don’t think it was a written down thing for that portion. They all were like really it’s stock? Uhhh Start here with the weights. I’ll check offset tho too.

 

[fourload]

Agreed, the stock sled will not pull the 39 angle on top end.

I run a 35/39 Dalton with the thunder orange in the primary ,2 glides, thunder orange@40, stock weights and pull 8750 on a warm 35 degree day. Colder weather it runs 8850. Sled gets great mileage and pulls a nice 115-120+ in good conditions on the speedo. Nice straight shift also. Belt still looks new @1400 miles. 60mm offset. I am sure all this will go out the door when I tune it next year.

 

[fxnytrortxkid]

Well considering mild tune with gutted exhaust, intake and precision intercooler for next season possiably so should be set once I do. was hoping I would have gained enough with clutching alone to satisfy me lol