Complete driveshaft availability?

[Motorhead]

Don't loctite it. Been there, done that. Didn't work for me. Neither did the set screw thru the shaft trick.

The only thing that you stand a chance with is the Barn of Parts driveshaft saver wedge. Do it when new and you should not have a problem as long as you tighten it enough.

Yes I had heard that from you on both the set screw and the loctite.

I know, I am stubborn, but realize that my dealer has backed me on oh so many issues, and whereas I will still have the warranty next year, and that I have been greasing that bearing every season which is why I think I got 5500 miles out of it.

Mine was not toast at 5500 but did show first signs of spinning on the shaft, so after dimpling it in 4 spots with a punch, and afterwards deciding to take the parts in to my dealer for warranty. They had no problem with any of what I asked for, so I just did what was mentioned by them.

Did not want to chance a warranty refusal because of non stock components but am watching how the BOP wedge will work with a Season or two on it. Next time maybe?

5500 is right about where the RX1 and Apex needs a new bearing also. I’ve also ruined shafts on those, thus the Ulmer heavy duty shafts have been tried while adding extroverts.


She May be a high maintenance sled, but mother what a sled eh!

 

[Sevey]

Many people put green locktight when new and it works.... green locktight is made exactly for this type of tolerance....It has work in the past whit 1100t and it works now to whit 998T, you must have been unlucky...

I am not saying this applies to everyone, but I have used green Loctite and it caused more problems than it solved. Had issues with the bearing and shaft running true. Cant figure it out. Made sure bearing was seated on the shaft but it still was wonky. Had to pull it all apart. Just use the BOP saver now.
MS

 

[cannondale27]

X2 and Dimpling got me through many miles but it also does not last. If you miss your first chance at dimpling making a tight fit its too late and if you miss the redimpling chance its also too late. Last season I did not do it mid season and this year both shafts in both sleds were too far gone for any method to save them.

 

[SumpBuster]

X2 and Dimpling got me through many miles but it also does not last. If you miss your first chance at dimpling making a tight fit its too late and if you miss the redimpling chance its also too late. Last season I did not do it mid season and this year both shafts in both sleds were too far gone for any method to save them.

That's why this site is so good. I prick punched mine twice already, and will again in the spring. Typically, if the bearing is spinning free, there's not much reason for the inner race to turn. And the prick punches leave just enough metal to flatten out when the bearing is pressed on. But it's one shot.. (each time it's removed, or moved)...can't play with it unless it's prick punched again.

 

[Motorhead]

Yep I was going to try dimpling the shaft, but whereas I was also doing a pre season track change out and had the time,
A few good fellows on here advised me about this being a warranty issue, so I turned in my dimpled shaft and caliper in for warranty. Very glad I did and shall be sure to look at it again next season!

 

[yamamarc]

I dimpled the shaft with a drill bit where the bearing sits and used retaining compound and so far so good this season!!!

 

[SumpBuster]

It's like the old James Bond movie: 'Dimples are Forever'.

Or at least a few thousand miles!

 

[Byam]

+/- 10 oookm on this "custom" drive shaft , 1,774 bearing assy +flash chrome +green locktight Even if the tunnel is flexing(wiggle)a little bit whit this bearing LOCKED.... i am happy to report NO stress cracked on my tunnel .