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Drive axle bearing repacking

Kkurz

Expert
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
394
Age
54
Location
Peterborough On.
Country
Canada
Snowmobile
2014 XF7000 Sno-Pro Limited
(Yamaha powered)
I'm trying to repack the bearing. I have the track loose, the three bolts out of the back side of the tunnel but I don't seem to be able to get the caliper and rotor to slide off the shaft. Is there a trick I'm missing? I tried to sand off the burrs on the shaft and it looks ok but can't get it to move out. What am I doing wrong? I was hoping not to have to split the caliper...
 

I never split mine and it came off ok. You never said but you have got the C clip off? You may and to tap it a little. I'm after taking several off of different machines and never had a problem.
 
Yes I got that off. It's already been updated to an easier style clip. I hope the bearing isn't stuck on the shaft.
 
Your not the only one, I put in a 141" skid in my ltx this summer and swapped to 7 tooth driver's, decided to do my chain case and clutch side bearing's while I had everything apart, my rotor would not come, wouldn't even budge, used all kinds of penetrating lube's, then I borrowed my friend's big 3 arm puller and that did the trick, had a hell of a time putting it back on too.
 
Maybe try to tap the bearing from inside the tunnel with a punch, I have heard of people say that the disk have got stuck on the shaft and they had to tap it off.
 
I'll try but its tight in there!
 
The rotor looks like its plenty loose. I might just have to split the caliper. You had because I know I have to replace my drivers eventually so it would be nice to free up the bearing.
 
The rotor looks like its plenty loose. I might just have to split the caliper. You had because I know I have to replace my drivers eventually so it would be nice to free up the bearing.

Have you owned this sled since new? Or has it been owned by previous owners. This bearing is known to be loose fitting on the driveshaft. Lots of people pean the shaft or even use loctite to hold the bearing race to the shaft. If that’s the case you will need to heat it to get it to break free. Hopefully that’s not the case for you. You may need to try a puller on it.
 
Nope, unfortunately I bought it used with fairly high mileage. The guy I bought it off used a dealer for maintenance, so hopefully that works in my favour... I'm only doing this now to save doing it mid season. I guess the caliper is getting split.
 
Nope, unfortunately I bought it used with fairly high mileage. The guy I bought it off used a dealer for maintenance, so hopefully that works in my favour... I'm only doing this now to save doing it mid season. I guess the caliper is getting split.

I would try a puller on it before splitting. Hopefully you can get lucky that way and it will pop off. As long as it wasn’t loctited on you should be able to get it with a puller.
 
I would try a puller on it before splitting. Hopefully you can get lucky that way and it will pop off. As long as it wasn’t loctited on you should be able to get it with a puller.

Oh ya but I guess you can’t get a puller on it with the dam brake disc in the way. This is such a terrible design and makes simple preventative maintence so hard. Thanks Cat lol.
 
With the rotor on there's nowhere to put a puller. If I split the caliper I might be able to use the three mounting holes for a puller to get the bearing off the shaft. Thank you for the help, I just don't see any other way. It's hard to get behind it from inside the tunnel and the rotor looks like it's ready to fall off if I could just move the housing.
 
So, this is where I'm at, I split the caliper, and took the rotor off. It came off easily. At a later date I'll make a puller out of some plate stock to remove the caliper housing from the shaft but for now I'll repack the bearing, reassemble rotor and caliper, bleed the brake and run it. The bearing actually looks good and still had lube in it. Part of the reason I'm backing off is, that I don't want to pull the housing and not be able to reinstall on the shaft. I'll cross that bridge another day...
Thanks everyone for the help, I love this site!
 
I bet it was Loctited on. BAD idea. the 4 peens are all thats needed. Been there and done that. I dont blame you a bit for stopping there. smart move.
 
I have 3000 miles on my. Want to do this maintenance but need to how much time it takes from start to finish. What parts should I have on hand if something goes wrong.
 


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