Anyone have the TB's sync'd?
For those of you that have hit 500 or more miles, did you have the throttle bodies checked and synchronized?
If so, did they need some adjusting?
For those of you that have hit 500 or more miles, did you have the throttle bodies checked and synchronized?
If so, did they need some adjusting?
rhoag
Expert
Ok I synched the fuel injection today. What a pain in the A$$! It was difficult to get at the little vacuum caps to get off/on and the vacuum lines from the manometer on. You have to take it apart all the way down to the headlight assembly. Don't take the head light assembly offf just move it aside and then take the bracket that holds it off. You will probably need smaller vacuum lines for the manometer, the connection points are smaller than the RX1. According to the manual you adjust 2,3,and 4 to 1 (use 1 as a reference) DON'T ADJUST #1. Mine looked pretty good before I started, but decided to tweak alittle anyway. It was a pain once it was warmed up 2,3,&4 were alittle higher than 1 so I adjusted them down. Then 1 dropped and I adjusted again. I was blipping the throttle after adjusting and let them settle. 1 just kept moving on me and the idle speed kept changing. I think I finally got them back to close where they were. The RX1 was much easier!!! Sorry, but it's impossible to take pics down in there. You will see the liitle vacuum caps with no problem once you get it apart. The outside ones are easy, but the inside ones are difficult. I used one of those tools for picking up a small part (you push the plunger and the fingers open up). Once you grab the little cap you can use a srewdriver to lift it off. Anyway, the manual says to sheck this at 500 miles, but I think if it runs fine don'y worry about it! Mine looked good. I did take a before pic I will post later after I download it off my camera.
kviper
VIP Member
I had mine at the dealer at 500 Mi for the slight hesatation and he checked the sync and said all was in spec. He went two click's richer on the EFI and it cleared it up. If it is not broke i would not fix it. kviper
rhoag
Expert
2 clicks richer???? I have 360 miles on my GT and my last ride was 83 miles. I burned an entire tank of fuel. The low warning light came on so I had to atleast burn 9 Gallons I would think. 83 divided by 9 is a touch over 9 MPG! That's terrible fuel economy. I also thought I smelt raw fuel these are the reasons I wanted to check the synch. Here is a before pic of synch higher cfg (about 19) then the after much lower about 14. So I think I may have messed it up. Yes the sled was idling at 1500 rpms for both pics. All I know is if I get 10 MPG on the next trip this thing is going to the dealer.
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NY_SXR700
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I felt the same way last ride I got 110 miles to the tank. The first ride I got 106 miles to 6.1 gal of gas. I also smelled raw fuel (fuel light came on and my 2-stroke buddies still had more fuel than me). We are supposed to have a 4 day trip to Old forge starting this Thurs. I am not sure that is going to happen but I want to get all this looked at soon. I did ride a bit harder the second trip out. I now have 298 miles on the sled. Doug
rhoag
Expert
What 170plus said is right out of the manual, I had a copy of it when I synched mine. I found out that when you synch these don't just blip the throttle after making an adjustment. I posted earlier that number 1 kept changing on me. The dealer said it may have started runnning rich from blipping the throttle. Tonight I went to a friends and put the sled on a lift, warmed it up, disassembled, hooked up manometer, then fired it back up. I let it run for about 5 minutes and it was almost perfect from my previous adjustment last weekend. This time I ran the sled on the stand actually spinning the track then let it settle for a minute. It was right on and pulling close to 19 cmg. I have restrictors in the lines of my manometer that helps even out the display so it doesn't bounce, that's why it isn't 27 like the book says it should be. Anyway, if you synch these just use the brass screws, let it warm up good, make sure it's idleing at 1500rpm's, then adjust 2,3,and 4 even with 1. Watch the fan on the radiiator it turns on at around 215 degrees, if it comes on because you are taking to long shut it down. You could put a bag of ice on each running board if it takes you to long, but it shouldn't take but about 2 minutes once hooked up and ready to tweak. Good luck getting the center little caps off and on.
BADSLED
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Camn someone post step by step directions for this procedure?
sstickler
Extreme
rhoag said:2 clicks richer???? I have 360 miles on my GT and my last ride was 83 miles. I burned an entire tank of fuel. The low warning light came on so I had to atleast burn 9 Gallons I would think. 83 divided by 9 is a touch over 9 MPG! That's terrible fuel economy. I also thought I smelt raw fuel these are the reasons I wanted to check the synch. Here is a before pic of synch higher cfg (about 19) then the after much lower about 14. So I think I may have messed it up. Yes the sled was idling at 1500 rpms for both pics. All I know is if I get 10 MPG on the next trip this thing is going to the dealer.
Mine was just about the same until I had the "check-up"...now I am getting anywhere from 14-16mpg depending upon whether I'm riding grades or twisties in the woods...
87gtNOS
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sstickler said:rhoag said:2 clicks richer???? I have 360 miles on my GT and my last ride was 83 miles. I burned an entire tank of fuel. The low warning light came on so I had to atleast burn 9 Gallons I would think. 83 divided by 9 is a touch over 9 MPG! That's terrible fuel economy. I also thought I smelt raw fuel these are the reasons I wanted to check the synch. Here is a before pic of synch higher cfg (about 19) then the after much lower about 14. So I think I may have messed it up. Yes the sled was idling at 1500 rpms for both pics. All I know is if I get 10 MPG on the next trip this thing is going to the dealer.
Mine was just about the same until I had the "check-up"...now I am getting anywhere from 14-16mpg depending upon whether I'm riding grades or twisties in the woods...
What is the check-up?
And what is 2 clicks?
rhoag
Expert
Badsled
Here is a link to the basic disassembly with pics http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=17722
follow the directions here to disassemble down to the headlight assembly. Leave the headlight assembly attached and the panel with the key switch (you need your tach and must be able to start the sled). Remove the tye wrap that holds the headlight pod wires to the headlight support bracket. Remove the headlight support bracket. You are now ready to connect your device (manometer, vaccuum gauge, etc...) to the vacuum outlets on the throttle body. Optional at this point would be to remove the air box for easier access to the 4 little caps. Here is a link to a pic that shows where the 4 caps are. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx
Once the caps are removed and your manometer is connected, you must reinstall the airbox prior to starting if it was removed. Start the engine and let it warm up. Once the sled is warmed up good, make sure the idle is at 1500 rpm's. Locate the brass air manifold/idle circuit. The screw adjusters are clearly marked 1-4. Put a piece of tape over #1 so that you don't accidently adjust it. If your idle is not 1500 RPM's and the sled is warmed up good, adjust the black knob on the air manifold till you are at 1500 RPM's. Now adjust the #2 screw so that the vacuum matches #1. Let it settle a bit and make sure you are still at 1500 rpm's. Now repeat adjusting 3 to match 1&2 and then 4 to match 1-3. If possible run the sled on a stand then let it settle, make sure they are all equal. If they are all equal you are done. Reassemble. Like I said prevously if the fan on the radiator turns on, then you are running close to 215 degrees shut it down and let it cool.
Sorry this isn't a step 1 step 2, but it's really not very hard to do except getting at the caps. I used a tool (I will call it magic fingers) to get at the center caps.
Here is a link to the basic disassembly with pics http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=17722
follow the directions here to disassemble down to the headlight assembly. Leave the headlight assembly attached and the panel with the key switch (you need your tach and must be able to start the sled). Remove the tye wrap that holds the headlight pod wires to the headlight support bracket. Remove the headlight support bracket. You are now ready to connect your device (manometer, vaccuum gauge, etc...) to the vacuum outlets on the throttle body. Optional at this point would be to remove the air box for easier access to the 4 little caps. Here is a link to a pic that shows where the 4 caps are. http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx
Once the caps are removed and your manometer is connected, you must reinstall the airbox prior to starting if it was removed. Start the engine and let it warm up. Once the sled is warmed up good, make sure the idle is at 1500 rpm's. Locate the brass air manifold/idle circuit. The screw adjusters are clearly marked 1-4. Put a piece of tape over #1 so that you don't accidently adjust it. If your idle is not 1500 RPM's and the sled is warmed up good, adjust the black knob on the air manifold till you are at 1500 RPM's. Now adjust the #2 screw so that the vacuum matches #1. Let it settle a bit and make sure you are still at 1500 rpm's. Now repeat adjusting 3 to match 1&2 and then 4 to match 1-3. If possible run the sled on a stand then let it settle, make sure they are all equal. If they are all equal you are done. Reassemble. Like I said prevously if the fan on the radiator turns on, then you are running close to 215 degrees shut it down and let it cool.
Sorry this isn't a step 1 step 2, but it's really not very hard to do except getting at the caps. I used a tool (I will call it magic fingers) to get at the center caps.
BADSLED
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Thanks!
pknapp
Newbie
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Don`t believe the low fuel light until you fill the sled. I rode about 10 miles with the light on and when I fueled I could only get 7.8 gallons in the tank.
That means I had over 2 gallons left. I got 14.6 miles per gallon on that
ride which included a 110 mph run across the lake.
That means I had over 2 gallons left. I got 14.6 miles per gallon on that
ride which included a 110 mph run across the lake.
NY_SXR700
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I did at least that with the light on. I had no idea how much fuel was left but I still have not filled it up. I should go stik the tank and see how many inches are in there. I'll be right back. I just sticked the tank and it has 3/4" of fuel in it. I would say once that light comes on you have 15 miles max with good flipper control.
rhoag
Expert
Just got back from riding all weekend, low fuel light was on, when I filled up it only took 7.5 gallons to fill up. I did find out that you can really have a huge impact on fuel economy with throttle lack of control. The first tank I got 12 MPG, I was always putting the hammer down. Then the second tank while riding at night much slower I got 16 mpg.
87gtNOS
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rhoag, I think the mileage gets better as you put on more miles...my first tank this weeknd (which is the second tank in the sled) wasn't as good of mileage as the second tank today.
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