earthling
Lifetime Member
This should be a list of only unique parts.
super1c
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I’m as confused as ever now! LOL!
STAIN
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I know.I’m as confused as ever now! LOL!
Thats is why I am hoping the next person who does this conversion puts all the info in one post, with 8x10 glossy color photographs with circles and arrows and paragraph on the back of each one explaining what each one is.
no1b4me
Expert
FYI....if you were to use ( diagnostic connector #1 (4 pin) for your CanBus connection you will not be able to use your GAP flasher for live data logging . If you're not data logging you're good to go with part#25 listed by earthling(good comprehensive list !)This should be a list of only unique parts.
The other option is to use diagnostic #2 connector if you're not using CL,by just terminating the OEM 10 pin connector with a 4 pin weatherpack connector ,easily sourced.
However ,if you're running a GAP flasher and CL you can make a "Y" connector for either diagnostic port #1 or #2 for your CanBus connection.....clear as mud I hope ...lol
earthling
Lifetime Member
I’m as confused as ever now! LOL!
Post 37 has all of the right information
I know.
Thats is why I am hoping the next person who does this conversion puts all the info in one post, with 8x10 glossy color photographs with circles and arrows and paragraph on the back of each one explaining what each one is.
It is all in one spot. The spreadsheet and the PDF have all parts. If you order all the parts off of either list there is a chance that you will overspend by $73.00 because you may already have some of the parts on your sled after you remove the original steering. Then again, its 73.00 out of 1500.00 so its a pretty small overspend to ensure you have all parts on hand. If you want to go compare the drawings online and try to save 73.00, then the spreadsheet has a column G and in that column I marked all parts that are common to all winders with an X. Most of the common parts are nuts/bolts. It makes sense that they are common because they are used elsewhere on the sled. The bolts are $23.00 out of the $73.00 and the remaining $40.00 is the 4 brackets which hold the steering assembly. Two other people @Richard Hodgins and someone who is on here rarely have compared their own lists to the one I posted and confirmed that it is all accurate.
More than 40 different people have accessed the spreadsheet (can't tell how many have accessed the pdf). I have only shared this information on Ty so its either people from this site or through people who have heard it was here.
The color glossy photographs are going to be tough as there is barely room for your hands.
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I want to make sure that the main power and ground in the 2 pin connector are in the correct spot. Can someone post a good picture of the wires going to the plug please?
1nc 2000
Lifetime Member Tim
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From 23 service manual.
Connector 16
Pin A on harness side is power.
Pin B on harness side is ground.
Connector 16
Pin A on harness side is power.
Pin B on harness side is ground.
Richard Hodgins
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I know.
Thats is why I am hoping the next person who does this conversion puts all the info in one post, with 8x10 glossy color photographs with circles and arrows and paragraph on the back of each one explaining what each one is.
I'm not sure we have anyone on the forum who will make a post like RockerDan did with super precise pics and such. I tried to take pics myself but none of them seem to be in focus and I dont have the patience to make them look good and put circles/arrows.
As @earthling pointed out, everything is in this thread. His parts lists are accurate and T-Cat100 was kind enough to post exact measurements of where to drill holes on the pre-22 chassis.
All this being said, its NOT for the novice do-it-your-selfer. On a scale of 1 to to 10, I would put this at a 9/10 as far as difficulty. I would put a complete chaincase rebuild at 5 out of 10 for comparison (all bearings/gears in chaincase, jackshaft etc).
The main problem is you are doing stuff blind and need small hands. At first glance it seems like the PS assembly wont fit inside the bulkhead but it does if you do it right, then you have to assemble the brackets/steering stubshaft on to the PS assembly INSIDE the bulkhead. Then bolt the assembled PS with brackets in place. Then comes the wiring harness to make, I had to make 2 connectors, needed reading glasses and a lot of patience.
It was worth it, but its not an easy job. STUDY the wiring harness and connector diagrams and STUDY the parts diagrams on Yamaha/Arctic cat site to understand how the brackets go together and take your time.
YamaSpark
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I want to make sure that the main power and ground in the 2 pin connector are in the correct spot. Can someone post a good picture of the wires going to the plug please?
Attachments
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If all goes well by this fall I’ll have an install video done.
STAIN
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GUYS!!! This post was kind of a joke!I know.
Thats is why I am hoping the next person who does this conversion puts all the info in one post, with 8x10 glossy color photographs with circles and arrows and paragraph on the back of each one explaining what each one is.
The phrase refers to the song by Arlo Guthrie JR.---Alice's restaurant.
Just trying to add a bit of humor after such a disappointing season.
I didn't really expect anyone to take 8x10 glossy color photos
Maybe I am too old.
Last edited:
Simplespeed
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so whats the total estimated cost for a 2017 to buy everything needed to complete EPS
Richard Hodgins
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$1100 to $2000 depending where you buy and if you buy Yamaha (cheaper) vs Arctic Cat parts.so whats the total estimated cost for a 2017 to buy everything needed to complete EPS
zxtyler
Extreme
And does it perform exactly like factory?
Richard Hodgins
Expert
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Exactly like factory, it IS the factory version.And does it perform exactly like factory?
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