Error code 30 - low oil pressure

[Mtnviper]

Thanks for that info Bill. Apparently it is not that common outside the US either. I live in Canada and have never heard of it, and neither have any of the stores I have gone to. I have tried autoparts stores, boiler and instrumentation stores, specialty fastener stores,, nobody can get me a thread adapter or gauge with this fitting! Where did you end up finding one?

I got lucky and the Mac tools oil pressure test gauge that I used actually came with the correct fitting in the kit.

Most of the Snap-on, Mac, oil pressure test kits will have a fairly large selection of adapter fittings. These kits are fairly expensive though, normally professional mechanics will usually buy these types of testers.
If you know a mechanic well enough that he/she would loan you tools, you may be able to borrow one.

 

[ssrider]

I finally found an adapter so I could check my oil pressure. My worst fear has happened... ZERO oil pressure. I don't even know where to start or how much money this will cost to fix. Or how much more damage may have been done to the motor already. Wow this sucks, I finally bought a nytro because I was sick of my ski-doo's blowing up all the time and then it has a catastrophic engine failure. Isn't this motor supposed to last 20,000 miles??

 

[Mooseman]

Like trlbrkr mentioned, did you check for a pinched hose? It is very unusual for a mechanical failure of the pump or chain itself. Possibility that the screen in the suction tube, located in the tank is plugged. Maybe a plugged filter? I'd try the following:
- Drain the oil
- take out suction tube screen and clean
- check the hoses to and from the tank
- take off oil cooler and check for blockage and hoses
- replace oil filter and refill
- start engine and check pressure

Oh, and it goes without saying, stay away from Fram or other cheapo filters. Yamaha and K&N are good. If the engine wasn't at a high RPM when it lost oil pressure it might still be OK. It's when they're screaming down a straight line at top speed that they'll self destruct. Usually it's a busted hose or the infamous "double o-ring" on the oil filter where the old o-ring stayed on the engine when the new oil filter was installed, causing a catastrophic leak at high pressure and at the worst time.

 

[charger0926]

Thanks for that info Bill. Apparently it is not that common outside the US either. I live in Canada and have never heard of it, and neither have any of the stores I have gone to. I have tried autoparts stores, boiler and instrumentation stores, specialty fastener stores,, nobody can get me a thread adapter or gauge with this fitting! Where did you end up finding one?

been there done this...twice call aaron at this place. i believe that you need a 1/8" british pipe thread

http://www.hoseandfittings.com/

 

[Mtnviper]

I finally found an adapter so I could check my oil pressure. My worst fear has happened... ZERO oil pressure. I don't even know where to start or how much money this will cost to fix. Or how much more damage may have been done to the motor already. Wow this sucks, I finally bought a nytro because I was sick of my ski-doo's blowing up all the time and then it has a catastrophic engine failure. Isn't this motor supposed to last 20,000 miles??

ssrider,

If you have zero oil pressure on the mechanical guage, then I would suspect that the oil pump drive chain may be broken.
You mentioned in your previous posts that the oil level was ok and even with excessive bearing clearance, or other issues there should be at least SOME oil pressure while the oil is cold.
Thats why I suspect a broken chain, also the valve noise you are hearing is due to the no pressure to act on the timing chain tensioner.
What ever you do, do NOT continue to run the engine, as you run the risk of spinning a rod bearing. I would go ahead pull the bottom engine cover off to inspect the oil pump drive chain. If you find a broken chain, then it would be a good idea to pull the center and PTO rod caps and inspect for bearing damage. The center and PTO are the first to go if there is an oil starvation issue.
Hopefully they are ok though, but you'll want to make sure before you run the motor again. Nytro engines run a fairly tight bearing clearance (001"- 0015") and if the clearances are to loose, the engine will loose oil pressure when the oil temps get hot during riding. The main thing is that you don't want to "just run it and see how it does", because you run the risk of throwing a rod through the side of the block and lunching the whole motor.

Bill

 

[cannondale27]

X2 Dont run it even for a second.

 

[ssrider]

I finally got around to pulling the oil pan off. What a job that is, have to pull off the subframe just to get the pan off. Just as Mtnviper thought, a broken oil pump chain! It was all bunched up sitting in the bottom of the pan. I was trying to figure out how to replace the chain. Do I have to pull off the right side of the motor to gain access to the top gear?

 

[toyota4runner]

Replacing it is one thing but what was the cause of failure?

 

[Mtnviper]

ssrider,

Yes the side cover will have to come off to access the drive sprocket on the crank.
A couple of things you'll want to check while its apart are,

Pull the oil pump off and check it for smooth operation. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to disassemble it and inspect for any signs of galling (spelling) of foriegn objects/metal which could have caused excessive friction within the pump. and stressed the drive chain.

I would pull the rod bearing caps and main bearing caps/lower crank case support and check for scoring on the bearings and crank for sure. When there is an oil starvation concern the rod bearings are the first to show damage. If the bearings and crank are ok, then the rest of the engine will usually be ok.
If there is no scoring on the bearings/crank, I would go ahead and check the bearing clearances using plasti-guage.
Also when you pull the caps, the bolts are one time use only and are angle torqued. So you'll need to replace the rod/main bolts and nuts. (I re-use the old bolts when checking the clearances with plasti-guage).
You may want to pull the motor so that it makes it easier to work on and do your inspections. Its a little more work, but now is the time to give it a good inspection. Then when you put her all back together , you'll feel confident that the repair is sound and it shouldn't give you any trouble down the road

 

[ssrider]

ssrider,

Yes the side cover will have to come off to access the drive sprocket on the crank.
A couple of things you'll want to check while its apart are,

Pull the oil pump off and check it for smooth operation. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to disassemble it and inspect for any signs of galling (spelling) of foriegn objects/metal which could have caused excessive friction within the pump. and stressed the drive chain.

I would pull the rod bearing caps and main bearing caps/lower crank case support and check for scoring on the bearings and crank for sure. When there is an oil starvation concern the rod bearings are the first to show damage. If the bearings and crank are ok, then the rest of the engine will usually be ok.
If there is no scoring on the bearings/crank, I would go ahead and check the bearing clearances using plasti-guage.
Also when you pull the caps, the bolts are one time use only and are angle torqued. So you'll need to replace the rod/main bolts and nuts. (I re-use the old bolts when checking the clearances with plasti-guage).
You may want to pull the motor so that it makes it easier to work on and do your inspections. Its a little more work, but now is the time to give it a good inspection. Then when you put her all back together , you'll feel confident that the repair is sound and it shouldn't give you any trouble down the road

Thanks for the suggestions. Am I able to inspect the bearings with the motor still in the sled? I do have the service manual and it says to pull the motor, but I don't want to if its not nessesary. When I pull off the lower crank case is the crank still suported or will it fall down if the motor is not upside down?

 

[Mtnviper]

ssrider,

Yes the side cover will have to come off to access the drive sprocket on the crank.
A couple of things you'll want to check while its apart are,

Pull the oil pump off and check it for smooth operation. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to disassemble it and inspect for any signs of galling (spelling) of foriegn objects/metal which could have caused excessive friction within the pump. and stressed the drive chain.

I would pull the rod bearing caps and main bearing caps/lower crank case support and check for scoring on the bearings and crank for sure. When there is an oil starvation concern the rod bearings are the first to show damage. If the bearings and crank are ok, then the rest of the engine will usually be ok.
If there is no scoring on the bearings/crank, I would go ahead and check the bearing clearances using plasti-guage.
Also when you pull the caps, the bolts are one time use only and are angle torqued. So you'll need to replace the rod/main bolts and nuts. (I re-use the old bolts when checking the clearances with plasti-guage).
You may want to pull the motor so that it makes it easier to work on and do your inspections. Its a little more work, but now is the time to give it a good inspection. Then when you put her all back together , you'll feel confident that the repair is sound and it shouldn't give you any trouble down the road

Thanks for the suggestions. Am I able to inspect the bearings with the motor still in the sled? I do have the service manual and it says to pull the motor, but I don't want to if its not nessesary. When I pull off the lower crank case is the crank still suported or will it fall down if the motor is not upside down?

If you leave the PTO housing upper bolts in, the PTO stub shaft and timing chain will hold it up. However there is the risk that the cam timing could jump a tooth, depending if the tensioner relaxes.

That said, with the subframe already off its not to bad of a job to go ahead and pull the motor. It will make life easier with it on a work bench. Its also easier to keep the crank case halve surfaces clean and free of oil when you go to use Yamabond to seal it back up.

Bill