SIKEWARD
Expert
Smith thanks for the link very helpful. I should hav known better and check the faq. Well 6 hours into it and i still dont have the heat exchanger out. but i'm close. here are some pictures if you'd like to see progress https://picasaweb.google.com/116140957379652423090/Nytro
revster
TY 4 Stroke God
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- 2009 Yamaha Nytro RTX SE
That kind of work is fine over the summer, but mid winter that sucks. Good luck with it!
ShootToThrill
VIP Member
You still need to remove one of cast aluminum side frames, the chaincase side was my choice. Kinda hard to hold the motor in place then.... May as well pull the motor now.
SIKEWARD
Expert
Yea I'm torn which side to remove. Why did you remove the chain case side over the clutch side?
ShootToThrill
VIP Member
Because there are 2 coolant hose fittings on that side, just figured it's easier if that side is off and out of the way.
JimPSI
Newbie
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Roest said:Jim, take the body plastic off the front in order to remove the engine skid plate on bottom of sled. Oil pressure switch is located on the rear of the engine block on the left (clutch) side. It has a single wire harness. It's to the left of the oil filter.....can't miss it. The harness that goes from the oil pressure switch travels upwards to a single connector plug that comes out of the main harness at the top left of the valve cover area.
thanks for the info! BTW I have a Roest plate With regard to oil path, a previous poster said the oil filter was before the pump. It would make sense for the OP switch to be after - can anyone confirm? It seems logical that if the oil filter became plugged somehow that would cause low OP. My sled is at the dealer waiting on a replacement switch - wiring OK.
JimPSI
Newbie
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- Yamaha 2015 Apex XTX, 2016 Vector XTX
- LOCATION
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Roest said:Jim, take the body plastic off the front in order to remove the engine skid plate on bottom of sled. Oil pressure switch is located on the rear of the engine block on the left (clutch) side. It has a single wire harness. It's to the left of the oil filter.....can't miss it. The harness that goes from the oil pressure switch travels upwards to a single connector plug that comes out of the main harness at the top left of the valve cover area.
thanks for the info! BTW I have a Roest plate With regard to oil path, a previous poster said the oil filter was before the pump. It would make sense for the OP switch to be after - can anyone confirm? It seems logical that if the oil filter became plugged somehow that would cause low OP. My sled is at the dealer waiting on a replacement switch - wiring OK.
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
JimPSI said:Roest said:Jim, take the body plastic off the front in order to remove the engine skid plate on bottom of sled. Oil pressure switch is located on the rear of the engine block on the left (clutch) side. It has a single wire harness. It's to the left of the oil filter.....can't miss it. The harness that goes from the oil pressure switch travels upwards to a single connector plug that comes out of the main harness at the top left of the valve cover area.
thanks for the info! BTW I have a Roest plate With regard to oil path, a previous poster said the oil filter was before the pump. It would make sense for the OP switch to be after - can anyone confirm? It seems logical that if the oil filter became plugged somehow that would cause low OP. My sled is at the dealer waiting on a replacement switch - wiring OK.
The previous poster was mistaken. I have a bare block in the shop that shows flow path plain as day.
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
How goes the battle?
SIKEWARD
Expert
I took and did a cyl compression check tonight. I got a range of 120 - 125 psi on each cyl. I spoke with a friend today who thought they should be around 170 and the service manual says 213 psi @ sea level is standard. What am I missing. It doesn't make sense all 3 cyl are so close to one another.
Mountaintech
TY 4 Stroke God
How did you make out? Is your sled back together and running?
SIKEWARD
Expert
Thanks for asking. she is all put back together. Did about 80 miles of trail riding ran good, good power, etc. however I let the oil sit for about a week or two in an uncovered pan in ths garage and when I finally went to clean up my mess there was grit in the bottom of the pan. I need to figure out if these are metal shaving or just dirt from the garage
canoehead
TY 4 Stroke God
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Run a magnet through it. Are you running synthetic or conventional oil?SIKEWARD said:Thanks for asking. she is all put back together. Did about 80 miles of trail riding ran good, good power, etc. however I let the oil sit for about a week or two in an uncovered pan in ths garage and when I finally went to clean up my mess there was grit in the bottom of the pan. I need to figure out if these are metal shaving or just dirt from the garage
grizztracks
Tech Advisor
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SIKEWARD said:Thanks for asking. she is all put back together. Did about 80 miles of trail riding ran good, good power, etc. however I let the oil sit for about a week or two in an uncovered pan in ths garage and when I finally went to clean up my mess there was grit in the bottom of the pan. I need to figure out if these are metal shaving or just dirt from the garage
If you still have the oil filter cut it open and check for shavings.
gormleyflyer2002
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
cheap comp gauge are bad news, use high end like Snap-On
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