Exhaust bolt?

[ROCKERDAN]

I've been reading about this issue in the "frequently asked questions" section
Is this still.a issue for.2019? I haven't removed the muffler uet

Same stupid stock bolts(TORX), just makes no sense to me....they break, trust me I spent a day drilling one out!

Brand new sleds, need to be taken apart before first major heat cycle IMO, and replaced with hex head and nickel anti-seize. If your dealer does all your work, then they will be the ones breaking the stock bolt off, when you take it in for chaincase tensioning.

Dan

 

[yamamarc]

I agree with KnappAttack... I use the copper and works good. The gasket is reusable for a bunch of times, it's a copper gasket I believe but non the less reusable.
Also a little trick is to warm up the sled to normal operating temperature, instead of using heat via a torch. The first time do a dry run cool motor so your not rushing after warming up motor and your familiar with the task.

Thanks buddy!! will do I have high temp copper good to 1800'f(982*c) made for exhaust

 

[yamamarc]

Same stupid stock bolts(TORX), just makes no sense to me....they break, trust me I spent a day drilling one out!

Brand new sleds, need to be taken apart before first major heat cycle IMO, and replaced with hex head and nickel anti-seize. If your dealer does all your work, then they will be the ones breaking the stock bolt off, when you take it in for chaincase tensioning.

Dan

I do all my own work and I absolutely do not want too be drilling and tapping exhaust bolt for at least 10 years ...lol!!!
Maybe I will just get hex ss bolts and replace!!!

 

[ROCKERDAN]

I do all my own work and I absolutely do not want too be drilling and tapping exhaust bolt for at least 10 years ...lol!!!
Maybe I will just get hex ss bolts and replace!!!

Honestly its a nice way to get to know a new sled, dive in when its new and clean and easy to take apart, reading my build thread gives you an idea when and how much I did way before I ever rode my sled.

If you must, you can use the stock bolts initially(I only replace the hard to get at ones when brand new), but you still need to remove them and slap on lots of nickel anti-seize...its good to much higher temps then copper, trust me. You are in canada, got this at canadian tire.

2500f

Dan

 

[yamamarc]

Honestly its a nice way to get to know a new sled, dive in when its new and clean and easy to take apart, reading my build thread gives you an idea when and how much I did way before I ever rode my sled.

If you must, you can use the stock bolts initially(I only replace the hard to get at ones when brand new), but you still need to remove them and slap on lots of nickel anti-seize...its good to much higher temps then copper, trust me. You are in canada, got this at canadian tire.

2500f

Dan

View attachment 141475

Thanks Dan!! Great pics now i have a clear idea of the set up!!!!
I'm guess that is a stock pipe judging by those welds...lol

 

[sabrecat]

I did what was said earlier. SS set screws with acorn nutz. Not a problem at all and now easy to take off muffler. Used my 2018 1 time and the stock torx bolt seized and twisted off. Pist me off bad!

 

[Pstn head]

The T-50 ball end torx bit from the Yamaha parts catalogue inserted in a 8mm socket works amazing if one decides to use the factory torx bolts.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Thanks Dan!! Great pics now i have a clear idea of the set up!!!!
I'm guess that is a stock pipe judging by those welds...lol

Yeah if you read the build thread post, you can see what I did. I recommend running sled bone stock til 550 or so miles for the first oil change, then do the mods.....but i STILL DID THE BOLTS and ANTI-SEIZE even though I ran stock setup for 550 miles. The stock bolts and no anti-seize as these sleds come from factory, are near impossible to remove if you ride the sled without doing it.

Dan

 

[jeff_yam]

Honestly its a nice way to get to know a new sled, dive in when its new and clean and easy to take apart, reading my build thread gives you an idea when and how much I did way before I ever rode my sled.

If you must, you can use the stock bolts initially(I only replace the hard to get at ones when brand new), but you still need to remove them and slap on lots of nickel anti-seize...its good to much higher temps then copper, trust me. You are in canada, got this at canadian tire.

2500f

Dan

View attachment 141475

Why using SS bolts instead of steel bolts? The bolts on your pictures above are steel bolt (grade 8.8)

 

[SAB1]

I went with the grade 8 steel. Not a fan of stainless in this application

 

[ApexXTX/Viper]

Honestly its a nice way to get to know a new sled, dive in when its new and clean and easy to take apart, reading my build thread gives you an idea when and how much I did way before I ever rode my sled.

If you must, you can use the stock bolts initially(I only replace the hard to get at ones when brand new), but you still need to remove them and slap on lots of nickel anti-seize...its good to much higher temps then copper, trust me. You are in canada, got this at canadian tire.

2500f

Dan

View attachment 141475

X2 on Canadian Tire 2500 degree F anti-seize. In and out half dozen times on SW (no problems) and applied to SRX when new.

 

[ApexXTX/Viper]

View attachment 141501 The T-50 ball end torx bit from the Yamaha parts catalogue inserted in a 8mm socket works amazing if one decides to use the factory torx bolts.

X2 - it's a toss-up between this and the C.T. Moto-Master Anti-seize as to what is the best $17 Cdn you can spend on these sleds!

 

[jeff_yam]

X2 on Canadian Tire 2500 degree F anti-seize. In and out half dozen times on SW (no problems) and applied to SRX when new.

What type of bolts do you use? Stainless or steel?

 

[race24x]

I like the idea of putting stainless studs in the turbo, that way it is just nuts on the outside to take off. Why arent more people doing this?

 

[ROCKERDAN]

SS are what you want to use....Steel will rust if not removed too soon, and be more of an issue.

These are NOT needed to be ultra strong, the higher grade bolts will shear alot easier when trying to remove, since they have been super heated over and over by turbo.

I use SS lockwashers, and do not lay into these too much when torquing either. Obviously not loose though. I just do them by feel, I would guess maybe 15-20 ft lbs.

Either bolts you choose, there is 100% consensus on using the highest temp Nickel anti-seize liberally. This is certainly the MOST important step for ALL 998 mufflers IMO.

Dan