Front Heat Exchanger

[equillibrium88]

I found a crack in the lower bolt hole on my heat exchanger. Not sure if it is fixable probably not. How can you remove this? Can it be done without removing the engine?

 

[equillibrium88]

I feel like an idiot. All I wanted to do was replace the bolts I removed from the frame that I didn't need to. I had taken the two bolts holding the bottom on the heat exchanger out by accident when removing the front frame. Like a moron I grabbed the wrong bolt, which was longer then it is suppose to be, I didn't clue in when I was tightening it and now I got coolant leaking out all over my garage floor. Did I just blow a hole in a $700 part that requires pretty complete disassembly to get at ?? I am not skilled enough to remove the heat exchanger. What should I do? What can I do?

Matt

 

[cannondale27]

Right way would be to remove exchanger and get it welded. You could try pipe sealant tape on right length bolt and see if it seals it.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

Take a picture so we can see where the hole is. In our area a local guy welds heat exchangers while in the sled. You just have to remove the fuel tank.

Taking out the heat exhaust is not going to be a fun job.

 

[equillibrium88]

If you look at the bottom mounting hole on the heat exchanger on the clutch side, you can see where the nut is welded to the aluminum there is almost a pocket that's where the bolt poked through. Do you think I could wrap some Teflon tape around the bolt threads and then mix up some JB weld or sealant to plug that hole?

 

[Ruggybuggy]

JB weld might work but your going to have to get the repair area spotless. Use fine sand paper and then brake clean.

Someone in North Bay should be able to weld that up. It would suck if you were out for a ride a long way from home and the JB weld failed.

 

[porkchop]

I ran JB weld on a beater A/C Firecat for a couple years that had a groove rub from the stud, getting it clean/ prepped good as Dave mentioned is key for it to stick.
Many THIN coats applied over the course of a weekend, let it set up in between.

That appears to be a good sized hole, maybe a tig welding would be better in this case, I would just to be on the safe side.
Is that a crack as well in the weld down on the right hand side, corner?
Hard to tell.

 

[equillibrium88]

Called in a favor, just had to pay $300 for wire and buddy is going tig weld that up for me nice and pop out my ball joints. Sweet.

 

[Voda2000]

$300? How much wire did you buy?

 

[nswsparky]

I had some wallowed out holes in my aluminum skid welded up, cost me $20 at a fab shop. You got screwed.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

That's pretty pricey! You must have a prop shop in your area. They have good experience with aluminum welding and should be able to do that for around $50. Take the control arms into your local garage, they'll pop them out for around $50 as well.

 

[Mooseman]

I'm thinking that you'll probably have to take it out because the other side might also be damaged or not, I can't tell from the picture. Can you see light through it from the other side?

 

[3-UP]

Like Moose said you should take it out, if you cranked the bolt in that hard than it probably looks the same on the other side, do yourself a favor and buy the good one that's on eBay for $72.00 and be done with it.

 

[Ruggybuggy]

A buddy of mine with a Xfire ripped through his when a few picks let loose. Our prop guy told him remove the tank and there must not be even a hint of a fuel smell. He didn't even have to remove the track. I would go and have it assessed before removing it.

 

[equillibrium88]

I bought a used rad on ebay for $72. Just posted a thread seeking assistance with disassembly. I know the engine and the reverse and exhaust have to come off. I already got the front frame off.
The $300 I spent was to buy some kind of wire and use of a shop. If I have to remove the heat exchanger to have it steam cleaned and repaired properly I may as well replace it with this cheap used one that the seller guarantees me is leak free. Sure beats the $900 my dealer quoted me for a new oem one.

The welder spent 40hrs working on my heat exchanger. Apparently chasing pinholes from residual coolant that could not be removed unless the rad removed for steam cleaning. I guess I broke it good with the largest part of the hole being on the backside facing the track. The hole on the front facing the engine has been repair with no issue.