grizztracks
Tech Advisor
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2005
- Messages
- 3,110
- Age
- 60
- Location
- Scio, NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- FX Nytro RTX, RS Vector, SR Viper RTX SE
eskimonytroxtx said:
The best????
Must be the Polaris mixer....
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
Re: overheating
I did all of that, mtx cooler, diluted coolant, water wetter, and Moflow vents (didn't tell them steve sent me tho, doh!), and my problem completely went away. Never saw the light after that.
I could screw around all day stopping and going, driving around slow, idling for long periods of time, and it seemed to be fine.
Not sure I would use it as a flashlight while ice fishing though lol. I would just buy a nice "headlight" for your head, and shut the snowmobile off.
sj said:rough rider said:Im working on installing a3 inch bilage blower to blow cool air into the radiator , the bilage fan will be wired into a fused toggle switch, so i can turn it off or on when i choose, I will try to post some pics of the set up when Im finished, to show the mounting location and hose routing... I have done this for years on my atvs by installing the marine bilage blowers adds extra circulation on those hot days.
add some moflow vents....(tell him steve sent you)...install a lower temp thermostat (mountain performance) ...dilute coolant with distilled water to proper ratio for temp desired....add water wetter and and a mtx cooler and that should cover it...you can also add some ski ice scratchers...
remember the ice in/on your tunnel is heat exchanger coolant that never made it there!
I did all of that, mtx cooler, diluted coolant, water wetter, and Moflow vents (didn't tell them steve sent me tho, doh!), and my problem completely went away. Never saw the light after that.
I could screw around all day stopping and going, driving around slow, idling for long periods of time, and it seemed to be fine.
Not sure I would use it as a flashlight while ice fishing though lol. I would just buy a nice "headlight" for your head, and shut the snowmobile off.
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
I didn't add the lower temp thermostat though.
The ice scratchers on the skis worked great...until I went airborn and damn things would flip forward. Then I'd have to stop and tip the sled over and flip them back. Need to rig something up for that still...
The ice scratchers on the skis worked great...until I went airborn and damn things would flip forward. Then I'd have to stop and tip the sled over and flip them back. Need to rig something up for that still...
sleddingfarmer said:
I plan on running slidekicks...reversable ice scracthers! airborn no problem!
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
sj said:
Yeah I was soooo close to buying a pair of those, but they just looked so flimsy in all the pictures I saw, I couldn't see them doing much. BUT after I saw them in person, they are anything but flimsy and no doubt they will work great.
But I was only at 136 inches for track length and with extra bogies so it wasn't a huge concern for me. I had the regular old scratchers laying around so thought what the heck.
I've read about people complaining that the slidekicks can spin around so the natural bend that keeps the pressure down to the ground would be facing towards the rear of the sled...so they wouldn't have much down pressure.
My thought was to get a thin piece of steel, drill a hole in it so it would act like a washer...but have it stick out about an inch to one side. Weld it to the slidekick and make a 2 bolt mount for it. To prevent it from spinning.
Of course proper installation, loctite and all that good stuff could argue this is not needed, but vibrations over time can do a lot of damage. Especially when you start bolting a steel bolt through aluminum.
ya good points....I actually plan on doing what of course the maker says officially you shouldnt do...
mount it to the inside of my ski saddle.....
mount it to the inside of my ski saddle.....
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
I think the skis are the best place for any type of scratchers.
I'm going to rig up some sort of old spring, off a siderake, haybine, combine, etc. Mount it on the back inside corner of my skis, and make it just long enough to barely scratch the ground. On concrete, I want it to be pointing straight down, and be as close as possible to the concrete witout actually touching.
Not looking to scratch ice, since I plan to never ride on ice. But I would like it to spray snow into my suspension. Then I won't have to worry about going airborn, reverse, or anything really. Might weld on a piece of steel at an angle to help "aim" the spray.
I'm going to rig up some sort of old spring, off a siderake, haybine, combine, etc. Mount it on the back inside corner of my skis, and make it just long enough to barely scratch the ground. On concrete, I want it to be pointing straight down, and be as close as possible to the concrete witout actually touching.
Not looking to scratch ice, since I plan to never ride on ice. But I would like it to spray snow into my suspension. Then I won't have to worry about going airborn, reverse, or anything really. Might weld on a piece of steel at an angle to help "aim" the spray.
did you ever see the bolt scratcher deal through the back of the ski hanging down...I think if you look ice scratcher on youtube its there?
just drill a hole inside rear corner of ski...install certain bolt...
just drill a hole inside rear corner of ski...install certain bolt...
sleddingfarmer
TY 4 Stroke God
yeah didn't the simmons skis do that? I think my cousin runs one of those on his simmons. I always forget to look at it.
Thats a possibility too. I kinda like the idea of having it outside of the ski vs under the ski, just to try to get as much spray as possible.
Thats a possibility too. I kinda like the idea of having it outside of the ski vs under the ski, just to try to get as much spray as possible.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Hey guys,
My Nytro XTX is overheating a lot.
Last year when I purchased it, I headed to Ontario right away, didn't have any overheat problems on the trails down there, but there was zero powder snow to play in and it wasn't cold. Got back to Yellowknife in March and the cold weather was finsihed (temps stayed above -20 C)
This year is my first season with the XTX riding below -20 C. Saturday I rode at -38 C and Sunday I rode at -28 C. Both days I couldn't stop the XTX from overheating in loose snow.
The majority of the conditions I am riding through here are cold temps + loose powder.
What's happening is the colder air temperatures are causing slush and ice buildup in the tunnel. This occurs around both the muffler and the bulkhead exchanger. As you know, the snow hits the hot muffler and the hot heat exchanger and turns to water, typically dripping off. Below -20 C the water is dripping down and refreezing inside the tunnel, combining with new snow off the track and creating a solid pack of slush and ice in the tunnel.
This creates two problems. The slush and ice pack that forms around the muffler prevents a solid circulation of snow from being sent to the bulkhead exchanger. The consequence to that is the slush and ice pack that forms around the bulkhead exchanger doesn't fall out. It forms a 'bubble/air pocket' around the heat exchanger, preventing the exchanger from any direct snow contact. The lack of snow circulation caused by the ice pack which forms around the muffler prevents the ice pack around the heat exchanger from being cleared out periodically. Instead all of it just builds up and freezes while riding. A small air pocket is created between the bulkhead exchanger and the actual ice pack. The result is no snow contact on the heat exchanger and no cooling of antifreeze.
What's interesting is that the tunnel protectors act as a support/trap for the slush and ice pack - the tunnel protectors actually enable the ice buildup problem, since the slush forms between the tunnel protectors and freezes to them creating a solid block that prevents any new snow from being properly cycled through the bulkhead exchanger.
I need a solution. I've discovered that I can't ride the sled below -20 C which is more than half our winter up here, without overheating. The problem has ruined a couple of trips now and doesn't look like it will go away for me.
The looser the snow is that I drive through, the worse the problem is because the more snow that enters the tunnel, the more slush and ice form around the only heat exchanger on the sled. Who knew that driving through loose powder would cause the engine to overheat? Usually a lack of snow is the reason for the problem ;-)
The most obvious solution to me is adding another heat exchanger - I didn't know the MTX tubular exchanger would fit - I read through this thread quickly, am I correct that it will fit? My Nytro MTX has not had any overheating issues in the same environment through 10,000+ km's. The extra tubular heat exchanger that is in the tunnel, added with the generous amont of clearance between the track and the top of the tunnel on the MTX aid in the cooling. The lack of any additional heat exchanger on the XTX plus the low amount of tunnel clearance is preventing the sled from cycling old slushy snow and ice out and new snow in.
I can find the P/N for the tubular heat exchanger off the MTX from Yamaha Canada (P/N 8HA-1241A-00) but I can't find a "kit" of any kind online for Canadian Dealers.
The other potiential solution which is more of a long shot I think is to remove all of the tunnel protector bars which I think some of you have tried. Did that help? Again my problem is different since it has nothing to do with not enough snow.
Those are the only things I can think of. I had to drive home today with the hood removed to increase airflow to the radiator, and at -30 C with full wind at my chest I froze my #*$&@ off with no windshield protection. I had to couple that with stopping every 10 minutes to manually clean out the bulkhead heat exchanger and the surrouding snowpack.
This is another one of those cases i've had here where the extreme temperatures I am using the unit in are causing operational issues, and we don't find out about these problems until we're using the units in the cold. The sled just isn't operable in this state and I don't want to cause any engine damage from the overheat light coming on every 10 minutes.
Let me know what you guys think. I'd like to try to get a solution implemented as soon as possible so I can get back on the trails with it. In the meantime I won't risk any overheat damage and it certainly isn't worth the hassle on the trails anyway so I will park it below -20 C.
Thanks for all your help -
YK
My Nytro XTX is overheating a lot.
Last year when I purchased it, I headed to Ontario right away, didn't have any overheat problems on the trails down there, but there was zero powder snow to play in and it wasn't cold. Got back to Yellowknife in March and the cold weather was finsihed (temps stayed above -20 C)
This year is my first season with the XTX riding below -20 C. Saturday I rode at -38 C and Sunday I rode at -28 C. Both days I couldn't stop the XTX from overheating in loose snow.
The majority of the conditions I am riding through here are cold temps + loose powder.
What's happening is the colder air temperatures are causing slush and ice buildup in the tunnel. This occurs around both the muffler and the bulkhead exchanger. As you know, the snow hits the hot muffler and the hot heat exchanger and turns to water, typically dripping off. Below -20 C the water is dripping down and refreezing inside the tunnel, combining with new snow off the track and creating a solid pack of slush and ice in the tunnel.
This creates two problems. The slush and ice pack that forms around the muffler prevents a solid circulation of snow from being sent to the bulkhead exchanger. The consequence to that is the slush and ice pack that forms around the bulkhead exchanger doesn't fall out. It forms a 'bubble/air pocket' around the heat exchanger, preventing the exchanger from any direct snow contact. The lack of snow circulation caused by the ice pack which forms around the muffler prevents the ice pack around the heat exchanger from being cleared out periodically. Instead all of it just builds up and freezes while riding. A small air pocket is created between the bulkhead exchanger and the actual ice pack. The result is no snow contact on the heat exchanger and no cooling of antifreeze.
What's interesting is that the tunnel protectors act as a support/trap for the slush and ice pack - the tunnel protectors actually enable the ice buildup problem, since the slush forms between the tunnel protectors and freezes to them creating a solid block that prevents any new snow from being properly cycled through the bulkhead exchanger.
I need a solution. I've discovered that I can't ride the sled below -20 C which is more than half our winter up here, without overheating. The problem has ruined a couple of trips now and doesn't look like it will go away for me.
The looser the snow is that I drive through, the worse the problem is because the more snow that enters the tunnel, the more slush and ice form around the only heat exchanger on the sled. Who knew that driving through loose powder would cause the engine to overheat? Usually a lack of snow is the reason for the problem ;-)
The most obvious solution to me is adding another heat exchanger - I didn't know the MTX tubular exchanger would fit - I read through this thread quickly, am I correct that it will fit? My Nytro MTX has not had any overheating issues in the same environment through 10,000+ km's. The extra tubular heat exchanger that is in the tunnel, added with the generous amont of clearance between the track and the top of the tunnel on the MTX aid in the cooling. The lack of any additional heat exchanger on the XTX plus the low amount of tunnel clearance is preventing the sled from cycling old slushy snow and ice out and new snow in.
I can find the P/N for the tubular heat exchanger off the MTX from Yamaha Canada (P/N 8HA-1241A-00) but I can't find a "kit" of any kind online for Canadian Dealers.
The other potiential solution which is more of a long shot I think is to remove all of the tunnel protector bars which I think some of you have tried. Did that help? Again my problem is different since it has nothing to do with not enough snow.
Those are the only things I can think of. I had to drive home today with the hood removed to increase airflow to the radiator, and at -30 C with full wind at my chest I froze my #*$&@ off with no windshield protection. I had to couple that with stopping every 10 minutes to manually clean out the bulkhead heat exchanger and the surrouding snowpack.
This is another one of those cases i've had here where the extreme temperatures I am using the unit in are causing operational issues, and we don't find out about these problems until we're using the units in the cold. The sled just isn't operable in this state and I don't want to cause any engine damage from the overheat light coming on every 10 minutes.
Let me know what you guys think. I'd like to try to get a solution implemented as soon as possible so I can get back on the trails with it. In the meantime I won't risk any overheat damage and it certainly isn't worth the hassle on the trails anyway so I will park it below -20 C.
Thanks for all your help -
YK
mach9
TY 4 Stroke Master
Man... You might need to bite the bullet and go with the the full tunnel exchangers from Mountain Performance.
They had the same problems with all that powder they run in.
They had the same problems with all that powder they run in.
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Daranello
Suspended
I got my mtx cooler kit from a CND dealer for under $200
Yellowknife
TY 4 Stroke Master
Daranello, is it simply the 1 part listed under the MTX micro fische or is there an actual 'kit' that is an all-in-one with a single part number? (do you have it?)
