Help- electrical

[BLUEDOG]

Who here online tonight can tell me where to hard wire a positive/negative setup for my Collett Communicator? I have determined the proper set up to produce the proper voltage to go direct with the Communicator. I just need some input as to the easiest place to wire direct, my face shield is direct to the battery leads, this is a must, the communicator is next so I can be ready for north?

Thankd,

Ron

 

[Mighty]

I tapped into the lead for the dc outlet unless you want a constant 12v then just piggybak on your face shield line.

 

[Tork]

Mighty nailed it Ron,
What I am trying to find for you are

Srxspecs Apex disassembly pictures. Not that you need to disassemble that much but it may help you get to the wiring a little easier.

Splicing into the acc socket is probably best.

Does that help enough?

 

[BLUEDOG]

Thanks

That's about what I thought, I think I want the electrical output even when the sleds not running, that seems to be how the acc works. Maybe I'll go direct to the battery. Tork, this may be the answer for a constant power source. I'll know a lot more tomorrow when Dukester responds, looks like he's back and I know he knows this stuff...

Thanks,

Ron M

Ps. Mighty, how you doing?

 

[Mighty]

Re: Thanks

Ps. Mighty, how you doing?

Watching it snow right now hoping we'll get enough to give the Attak a spin around the county and raise some hell

 

[BLUEDOG]

hello

we got 4 inches today, no big deal helped a friend get my old 79 340 enticer running for the kids, that's as close as I'll get till we head north!

 

[Mighty]

Oh boy, I just turned on the local news and they're calling for 8 inches Might be too bad to go to work tommorrow 8)

 

[snomonut]

Who here online tonight can tell me where to hard wire a positive/negative setup for my Collett Communicator? I have determined the proper set up to produce the proper voltage to go direct with the Communicator. I just need some input as to the easiest place to wire direct, my face shield is direct to the battery leads, this is a must, the communicator is next so I can be ready for north?

Thankd,

Ron

Just as an FYI, Collett does NOT recommend tapping directly from the battery or accessory plug. Here is the blurb directly from their site:

Why does Collett not provide a cord to draw " free " power from a snowmobile's battery, as some other brands do?
Answer: There are four reasons we do not supply such a cord. And they are;

1. The " free " power would come at a great cost in Communicator performance. Ignition noise would be injected directly into the radio's receiver, drastically reducing operating range. A filter could be designed to eliminate the noise, but there's no guarantee it would work effectively with all or even most ignition systems. A voltage regulator would also have to be built-in so if the snowmobile's voltage regulator quit ( as they often do, burning out the headlight ) the Communicator wouldn't be destroyed by a voltage surge. Doing all this would add to the cost of the Communicator and again, there's no guarantee it work for everyone.

2. We hate creating warranty problems. Broken power cords are already our biggest source of warranty work, so we don't need more. We know from past experience that most people will forget they are attached to the machine and just jump off without disconnecting the cord. This can result in damage to the cord, the Communicator, the helmet or maybe all three. As well, just thinking about the " bulldogging " effect on riders heads and necks if they are thrown from their snowmobiles, sends shivers down our company lawyer's spine.

3. You shouldn't become dependent on power from the snowmobile's battery. If you get stuck, run out of gas, or have an accident which disables your snowmobile, you want the option of walking to get help. If you don't have a power source on your person you are faced with the choice of either staying with the machine to use it's power or leaving and giving up all possibility of calling for help over your radio.

 

[Blue Me]

Use a fuse inline and if you can get a suppressor your golden. I took the jumper lead (RED) and removed the boot and made my own hot lead by using a round crimp on connector (Yellow) that fit right in between the jumper lead and the terminal to the battery then went to a small terminal block and from there fuse out to your accesories. Get a cheap AC line conditioner from an auto parts store or even Radio Shack you'll be fine and love the convenience of being able to check everything right there and not question a bad hidden connection IMO

 

[TallCool 1]

I was also told more than once it wasn't wise to tap into the sled's power, but maybe you guys have it figured out. Last year we purchased the Communicaor Power just to be safe.

http://www.communicatorpower.com/