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how are the curve skis?

Woody's Slim Jim for Curves & C&As....SC4-5000 = 4" carbide, SC6-5000 = 6" carbide, SC8-5000 = 8" carbide.
Slim Jims will need a little bending at the ends to follow "the curve". They also stick down about 7/8", compared to about 5/8" for the shapers.
 

My new curves were DANGEROUS this past weekend! That was stock set-up on icy hard trails. I'm going to change a lot before next trip. I'm calling Curve tomorrow for suggestions then maybe call Snowtrackers for options. If they still dart this bad, i may be getting new ski's........AGAIN
 
My new curves were DANGEROUS this past weekend! That was stock set-up on icy hard trails. I'm going to change a lot before next trip. I'm calling Curve tomorrow for suggestions then maybe call Snowtrackers for options. If they still dart this bad, i may be getting new ski's........AGAIN
Make sure your toe out is correct. If incorrect it will cause a wild ride.
 
I picked up a set of take off pro cross skis with cats offset carbides and really like them. I think I paid $150 shipped.
 
Just curious. I've never been a big fan of the woodys doolys so my question is, do the Curve skis dart with round or shaper bars?

Dooly and slim are two totally different designs. Many just associate them as being the same thing. Dooly is two round bars on a plate and for aggressive riders they will push severely. For non aggressive riders they work well and last a long time. A slim jim is a piece of flat stock bent into a channel. The two keels are more defined and cut will cut and hold a line 10x better than the round bar dooly. Both prevent darting, but the slim jims have far superior cornering ability.

snowtracker does not make a skag for the curve ski, however they do for the C/A ski which is same stud pattern. I have a set of snow trackers on my curves for testing but have not gotten any riding in yet. I do have one customer running them and he is very pleased with the set up.
 
My new curves were DANGEROUS this past weekend! That was stock set-up on icy hard trails. I'm going to change a lot before next trip. I'm calling Curve tomorrow for suggestions then maybe call Snowtrackers for options. If they still dart this bad, i may be getting new ski's........AGAIN

What sled, track length, type of track and what carbide length? Just curious........
 
Dooly and slim are two totally different designs. Many just associate them as being the same thing. Dooly is two round bars on a plate and for aggressive riders they will push severely. For non aggressive riders they work well and last a long time. A slim jim is a piece of flat stock bent into a channel. The two keels are more defined and cut will cut and hold a line 10x better than the round bar dooly. Both prevent darting, but the slim jims have far superior cornering ability.

snowtracker does not make a skag for the curve ski, however they do for the C/A ski which is same stud pattern. I have a set of snow trackers on my curves for testing but have not gotten any riding in yet. I do have one customer running them and he is very pleased with the set up.

Differences in Slim Jim and Dooley both by woodys below pics.

Not a big fan of either as they will increase push, and be slower on top speed, but some need them to help with darting. A pilot ski IMO is the best compromise for darting and lightest effort.
slim jim spec.png
slim jim 2011.jpg
dooly.jpg
 
I went with a set 0f 6" SJ Dooly series right away with my curves because of some reporting a bit of darting with curves and other scags. Big difference from stock, no darting at all on my one and only ride with them so far (Hard packed trails with 2-3" of meal at end of day) and no jittery steering, just smooth and great straight ahead tracking. Steering is still hard but will address that as season goes on with adjustments I hope. But I expect the curves to shine in the fluff or deeper snow and the SJ for hard pack darting..

Yes I do agree about all doolys pushing in corners. have had them on all sleds since around 2003.
But on this one very minimal push in corners so far, but again this is a cat chassis! Right?
 
Not having these skis I cant say for sure what's up.. BUT I do have a set of aftermarket skis(SLT) and it seems something is off on these winders as far as aftermarket skis go. I had a ton of hard steer going on(darting also) with mine(192 studs 1.325).. I had 7.5 shapers on mine and it seems as though the way the carbide sits on the ski compared to the ski/spindle is off somewhat. Its like more(to much) of the carbide is behind the ski spindle.. I have a set of woodys Ace carbides to try next.. Not sure if its the extra weight on this chassis in front or what but my set up felt like it was totally nose diving into the trail EVEN after 1/4 inch shims installed. Sorry for the hijack but it seems like heavy steer is a issue with these aftermarket skis? Could it be the forward track shock spring?? That's my theory anyway..
 
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Just something I found when going over Toms, I just posted it in the 6.9 thread, here is post:

One quick thing I totally forgot to mention...

With heavy steering, be sure to check your effort with weight off nose too. The clamp/bushing system on the procross that bolts the top of the steering post to the frame, can be over tightened from factory. I noticed this when checking entire sled over for Tom, that when front was on the lift, the steering seemed to be binding some. I just backed off the two nylock nuts on that upper post clamp and it fixed it right up. Not sure if dealer tightened his too far or factory? But typically those upper post bushings wont over tighten the pressure on the post no matter how tight you crank nuts, but in this case if you tighten those nuts abit too tight the steering starts to bind up.

Just something to check over guys.
 
What sled, track length, type of track and what carbide length? Just curious........
LTX-Le with plain 6" carbides from Curve. First i must state it was very icy hard pack & i left stock suspension settings so i won't judge until i make ALL the adjustments from this website. I may try Slim Jim's or Snowtrackers next, but it will be 3 weeks until i go again. Until then i will adjust & re-adjust in this "monkey brain" head of mine over & over & over until i explode...
 
LTX-Le with plain 6" carbides from Curve. First i must state it was very icy hard pack & i left stock suspension settings so i won't judge until i make ALL the adjustments from this website. I may try Slim Jim's or Snowtrackers next, but it will be 3 weeks until i go again. Until then i will adjust & re-adjust in this "monkey brain" head of mine over & over & over until i explode...

Ok I have heard the 137's have needed a rear skid adjustment being they all seem to have too much ski pressure. Plus the rule of thumb I was told by the Curve rep is you usually go down one size than normal being the ski design is pretty aggressive. Different machine but I run Curves on a 136 unstudded Apex with a Ripsaw II track, 4" carbides. They are perfect. I was skepticle but low and behold the rep was correct.
 
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After having Curve Ski's a couple years back and now trying a set of C&A's I don't think easy steering on the sidewinder is achievable with either.
You just have to much center keel. Not saying you can't make them better with less ski pressure but with the same amount of pressure as a pilot ski you are going to have much more steering effort.
 


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