Rockmeister
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To be able to ride alot of the time in the Midwest, you have to ride marginal snow.
My Rx-1 would heat up pretty easily in marginal snow conditions while my friends Apex right next to me didn't.
You can even have some serious snow depth and overheat.
Last year we had many times where the temps got warm, then cold again, this makes the snow turn into little ice balls, somewhat like sleet.
When these little ice balls hit your heat exchanger, they just bounce off of the exchanger and take away no heat energy.
You CAN fill your running boards with the ice balls, this works. lol
This was a pain...
So I added the Apex front radiator to my RX-1 to help prevent the overheating.
Ordered an Apex/Attak front radiator and clamps from Yamaha
Front Radiator Part# 8FP-12461-00-00
Clamp Part# 90450-35001-00 (Need 2)
There is enough room to mount the radiator in the factory Apex location, after you do a couple mods.
Reverse Linkage (If applicable):
The intermediate reverse lever must be shortened to provide room for the radiator, Yamaha did this on the Apex.
I modded the RX-1 intermediate reverse lever to match the Apex one, but you can order the lever for an Apex for about $8.
Intermediate lever Part# 8FR-18198-00-00
The rear part of the intermediate lever that controls the up/down motion must be shortened 3/4 of an inch, and the mounting hole for the lower linkage is also relocated 3/4 of an inch towards the pivot.
On the lower linkage that goes into the chaincase, you also have to relocate the mounting hole 3/4 of an inch towards the pivot.
To keep from having to rip my chaincase apart, I simply drilled an access hole in the front of the right footrest, to allow me to drill a new 1/4" hole in the lower lever.
You can see the access hole and the relocated mounting in the pic.
Radiator mounting:
Used three 1/4" Stainless bolts and stop nuts to mount the radiator.
Mount the radiator with about 1/4" between the radiator itself and the frame tube.
Also put high density weatherstripping between the radiator and the frame to help prevent possible damage from vibration.
Fan mounting:
The fan is a $1 12volt low current fan from a computer case.
(Mine was actually free, but you can buy them for $1)
The factory fan is about $160.00
Like my free fan better... lol
Remove the right cowling above your right foot.
Under it is 3 control relays, unhook the right two relays by wiggling and lifting them upward.
Lay them to the side for now.
Unbolt the back-up alarm (if applicable).
Set the fan in place and mark out the area needed to be cut for the fan.
Trim out the round hole for the fan, and drill the mounting holes.
Mount the fan so that it blows back towards your leg, drawing air through the radiator.
Would strongly suggest using a low current fan, less than 1 amp if possible.
Mine draws about 1/2 an amp.
Zip-Tie the two relays to the 3rd relay on to the left of the fan, making sure nothing can get into the fan.
Grounded the fan to the back-up alarm mounting bolt.
The positive comes from the Blue/Red wire.
The Blue/Red wire is right by the fan, coming from one of the relays, and is powered only when the sled is running.
I ordered the hoses from an Apex, but they were backordered, and was supposed to go riding, so I cut the existing hose to match the lower hose, and the remainder worked perfectly for the top hose!
The radiator made a major difference with cooling!
Used the installation for over 2000 miles last year and am very happy with it.
UPDATE:
Use the Blue/Red wire to power the fan.
(As opposed to the lighting circuit Blue/White wire)
You may have to change the SIG fuse to a slightly higher amperage.
Reason is: If there is a problem in your wiring, fan fails etc, you only lose your taillight, not your headlights.
My Rx-1 would heat up pretty easily in marginal snow conditions while my friends Apex right next to me didn't.
You can even have some serious snow depth and overheat.
Last year we had many times where the temps got warm, then cold again, this makes the snow turn into little ice balls, somewhat like sleet.
When these little ice balls hit your heat exchanger, they just bounce off of the exchanger and take away no heat energy.
You CAN fill your running boards with the ice balls, this works. lol
This was a pain...
So I added the Apex front radiator to my RX-1 to help prevent the overheating.
Ordered an Apex/Attak front radiator and clamps from Yamaha
Front Radiator Part# 8FP-12461-00-00
Clamp Part# 90450-35001-00 (Need 2)
There is enough room to mount the radiator in the factory Apex location, after you do a couple mods.
Reverse Linkage (If applicable):
The intermediate reverse lever must be shortened to provide room for the radiator, Yamaha did this on the Apex.
I modded the RX-1 intermediate reverse lever to match the Apex one, but you can order the lever for an Apex for about $8.
Intermediate lever Part# 8FR-18198-00-00
The rear part of the intermediate lever that controls the up/down motion must be shortened 3/4 of an inch, and the mounting hole for the lower linkage is also relocated 3/4 of an inch towards the pivot.
On the lower linkage that goes into the chaincase, you also have to relocate the mounting hole 3/4 of an inch towards the pivot.
To keep from having to rip my chaincase apart, I simply drilled an access hole in the front of the right footrest, to allow me to drill a new 1/4" hole in the lower lever.
You can see the access hole and the relocated mounting in the pic.
Radiator mounting:
Used three 1/4" Stainless bolts and stop nuts to mount the radiator.
Mount the radiator with about 1/4" between the radiator itself and the frame tube.
Also put high density weatherstripping between the radiator and the frame to help prevent possible damage from vibration.
Fan mounting:
The fan is a $1 12volt low current fan from a computer case.
(Mine was actually free, but you can buy them for $1)
The factory fan is about $160.00
Like my free fan better... lol
Remove the right cowling above your right foot.
Under it is 3 control relays, unhook the right two relays by wiggling and lifting them upward.
Lay them to the side for now.
Unbolt the back-up alarm (if applicable).
Set the fan in place and mark out the area needed to be cut for the fan.
Trim out the round hole for the fan, and drill the mounting holes.
Mount the fan so that it blows back towards your leg, drawing air through the radiator.
Would strongly suggest using a low current fan, less than 1 amp if possible.
Mine draws about 1/2 an amp.
Zip-Tie the two relays to the 3rd relay on to the left of the fan, making sure nothing can get into the fan.
Grounded the fan to the back-up alarm mounting bolt.
The positive comes from the Blue/Red wire.
The Blue/Red wire is right by the fan, coming from one of the relays, and is powered only when the sled is running.
I ordered the hoses from an Apex, but they were backordered, and was supposed to go riding, so I cut the existing hose to match the lower hose, and the remainder worked perfectly for the top hose!
The radiator made a major difference with cooling!
Used the installation for over 2000 miles last year and am very happy with it.
UPDATE:
Use the Blue/Red wire to power the fan.
(As opposed to the lighting circuit Blue/White wire)
You may have to change the SIG fuse to a slightly higher amperage.
Reason is: If there is a problem in your wiring, fan fails etc, you only lose your taillight, not your headlights.
03turbo
Extreme
Great write-up rock!! definetly going to get this on the turbo ASAP!!
04rxw10
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Rock with all the mods you have done to your sled whats next a toilet???????
I'm defiantly keeping these mods in mind will do them to my sled sometime
I'm defiantly keeping these mods in mind will do them to my sled sometime
Rockmeister
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04rxw10 said:
Ummmmmmm... No... Probably not... Laffin
However...
I may do another one...
How to Turbo your sled for about $1000...
: :rules
Will see how it works out...
Have to do a few others first. lol
Grinzz...
crazy canuck
Extreme
Someone should post this in the Tech Section...good writeup!
RX1Jim
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Have you run the sled without the fan? I would think there is enough air flowing through the engine compartment while the sled is moving that the radiator would provide good cooling without the fan. This is a great idea. Yamaha should offer it as a retrofit kit. Nice job, thanks for posting the details!!!
Rockmeister
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Yes, have run it without the fan.
It works great at speed, but needed for low speeds.
Ty! I appreciate it!
It works great at speed, but needed for low speeds.
Ty! I appreciate it!
A
Anonymous
I think I'm going to try that set up. Any estimates what the total cost is??
Rockmeister
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- 2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
The main parts you need are:
Front Radiator Part# 8FP-12461-00-00
Clamp Part# 90450-35001-00 (Need 2)
They are MUST have parts, the others may or may not be needed.
(There is alot of info in the first post.)
Also Reverse Intermediate lever Part# 8FR-18198-00-00 about $8
Worth getting, if you have reverse.
Talk to Kevin at Port Yamaha (Site Sponser).
Phone
262) 284-5995
Kevin will get you taken care of!
You can do this mod for less than $200
And it works great!
Hope this helps!
Rockmeister
PS Please add your location to your profile.
Front Radiator Part# 8FP-12461-00-00
Clamp Part# 90450-35001-00 (Need 2)
They are MUST have parts, the others may or may not be needed.
(There is alot of info in the first post.)
Also Reverse Intermediate lever Part# 8FR-18198-00-00 about $8
Worth getting, if you have reverse.
Talk to Kevin at Port Yamaha (Site Sponser).
Phone
262) 284-5995 Kevin will get you taken care of!
You can do this mod for less than $200
And it works great!
Hope this helps!
Rockmeister
PS Please add your location to your profile.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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Rockmeister - your writeup deserves a sticky, great upgrade for those riding in low snow conditions 
rxrider
TY Management
rxrider
TY Management
Rockmeister
TY Advertiser
- Joined
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- www.yamaheater.com
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2007 Attak - LOVE my sled!!!
TY! 
rednecksized
Extreme
Does this actually replace the heat exchangers or does it just add to the system? Thanks
just helps in low snow warm days
A cheaper version might be to look into some heater cores, might be larger capacity too. I wondered if one would work up front in the nose cone. Vent the front in and just bind it vent out the sides. That Rock is always looking for a reason to wire something up.
