nate007
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2. '04 Redline Revolt 800
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Flipping the ski rubbers around AND shimming them will eliminate 90% of your darting. Checking ski alignment will do the rest! It can be fixed for free!
BLUEBALLER
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nate007 said:Flipping the ski rubbers around AND shimming them will eliminate 90% of your darting. Checking ski alignment will do the rest! It can be fixed for free!
If it's so easy & free, maybe it's time Yamaha educated their service technicians on how to achieve a dart free ride. Couldn't/shouldn't this be done during a sleds PDI?
Imagine the poor dudes who don't surf TY & would never know about this little tidbit of info. If their dealer is as clueless as they are, they will ride that ill handling POS till they decide to get rid of it.
Remember, they are reading/listening/doing something about it - not too sure who's reading what as it's taking a f'n long time to fix a few things (cough cough handwarmers)
This is basic dealer prep - no? Time for yammy & it's network of dealers to all get on the same page.
The time is now - take it to the next level!
Unluckydiablo
Expert
Nate, I tried that, first telling my dealer to, then trying it myself, and it still wouldn't stop. Since I consider the stock skis to have no float in any sort of powder and push in the corners, I really think skis are something that should be upgraded anyway. I'm not saying you can't get rid of it without new skis, just that I (and some others by the posts on here) weren't no matter what we tried and for us new skis were the answer.
Everyone should try the free fix first, no doubt, but in my mind new skis are a upgrade that this sled needs anyway.
Everyone should try the free fix first, no doubt, but in my mind new skis are a upgrade that this sled needs anyway.
Hi Nate can you expand on what you mean by flipping rubbers around and shimming sorry new to this thanks in advance!!!
Tom
Tom
theCATman
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The ski rubbers should have the "slots" facing forward. This alone makes a world of difference.
However, some guys are even shimming the back part of the rubber (behind the spindle) by usually a piece of old drivebelt or track segment (lugs ground off)
However, some guys are even shimming the back part of the rubber (behind the spindle) by usually a piece of old drivebelt or track segment (lugs ground off)
scottydog1
Pro
AMEN Brotherarteeex said:Go faster.

Crewchief47
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Grimm said:Checking the toe couldn't have been easy while out on the trails. How did you do get at and loosen the inner locknut for the tie rod ends? Did you use the tools in your kit? In the garage, I had to bend a 14mm wrench 90 degrees to access the locknut from the side.
I leave the inside jam nut loose.
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Crewchief47 said:I leave the inside jam nut loose.
Really? No issues? Hmmm, I guess it wouldn't go anywhere as long as the out tie rod locknut is snug. How long have you run it this way?
Crewchief47
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Since new. Ran the trailing arm sleds like this as well. To each there own though.
Kråkan
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
I just loosened the outer joint and adjusted it half a turn at a time. Worked perfect and I did not have to loosen the inner nut.
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