Impossible track alignment

Have been running an Ice Attack XT since about 400 miles on this sled, 17 Winder LTX-LE. Track adjustment works much like any machine without all the problems explained on this thread, so I would have to agree that it must be the silent track which is causing the problem. Just checked and repacked jack and driveshaft bearings, and had no problem lining track back up. About 3 tries to get it lined up perfect.
Are you going to stud it dennis,we wont be riding any time soon,so you have time.
 
Are you going to stud it dennis,we wont be riding any time soon,so you have time.

Not this track Pete, it is on it’s last lugs. Ha Ha

5 or 6 missing lugs from running on rough ice last year looking for top end speed !

Too bad because I really enjoyed this track on all conditions except ice.

Next one will be studded so I can top out on ice instead of just snow.
 
If adjusting with just Center Tri-hub it is damn near impossible to get completely centered. I would recommend adding outside wheels, 4th wheel kit. This makes it easier to Center.
 
Mr KNAPP used an Emoji & the word "bugger" at 1:30 in the morning

All is well on TY.
There is peace on earth!

I think he’s on vaycay in Hawaii?

Don’t matter a whole lot anyhoooo.
Think about it guys/gals, tracking slightly to one side or the other, will it matter a whole lot?
Ok so your out riding and the trails are fresh groomed and sticky, you seize the moment with a handful of throttle you can’t even blink because your doing 70mph in a heartbeat. Bewildered and dazed from the awsome power of your machine, thanking god your not a Ski-Doo owner, you don’t notice the sharp corner ahead. Braking hard you hit the corner picking up the inside ski carrying it all the way around until you see daylight and mash it again! Repeat 2~3 hundred times and hit the hot tub.

Let me tell ya those track clips were rubbing through the corners 10 times harder than any little alignment issues you had.

Don’t worry too much about it, your head might explode. Or worse, you could have a Ski-Doo tumor!
 
Have been running an Ice Attack XT since about 400 miles on this sled, 17 Winder LTX-LE. Track adjustment works much like any machine without all the problems explained on this thread, so I would have to agree that it must be the silent track which is causing the problem. Just checked and repacked jack and driveshaft bearings, and had no problem lining track back up. About 3 tries to get it lined up perfect.

Yep, after seeing the trihub comment, I remembered!

Also got rid of the trihub at same time while suspension was out. So maybe both, non silent track and oversized 4 wheel kit are why mine seems normal adjustment wise.
 
Mr KNAPP used an Emoji & the word "bugger" at 1:30 in the morning

All is well on TY.
There is peace on earth!


Hahaha. Dang kids of mine keeping me up partying and playing Phase 10 till all hours of the morning. Fun having them all together for Christmas anyway!

Hey, the old man can keep up with the little whippersnappers, well I guess their not little anymore, but I can wakeup before them in the AM, find time to double check my track alignment, take out the dog and make breakfast before the kids get up.

Oh, and track alignment still didn’t change over night either!
 
Morning Knapp,
Thought you were in a different time zone for the holidays!
No snow round here anyway :(
Even Santa is running wheels on his sleigh so I hear.
 
It appears that I'm the only one who really doesn't have an issue with track alignment.
For what it's worth, here's how I do it.....

Sled is on the stand......

Hyfax to track drivers/knubs is the reference.
Side with the biggest gap
-loosen axle nut on that side only
-tighten adjuster bolt a couple turns. Not full turns. Just what I can get through the rail

Here's the important part....
-By hand, engine off, rotate track forcing the "big gap" to become the "small gap". Meaning total misalignment from where you first started. This helps the track get over the "bulge", or "groove" that it's used to riding in.
-Tighten axle nut
-Start machine and gently spin the track. Slowly back off throttle until track stops.
-Observe where the track has landed. Is the gap smaller than when you started? It should walk back some. or did it stay totally misaligned?
-chances are, the gap got smaller from where you first started.
-If not, adjust accordingly. When your close, Very Small Adjustments will make a Big difference.
-Axle nuts Must be tight before testing/re-testing.

Key is forcing track, by hand engine off, in the direction you want the track to move plus a little more. Doesn't matter if you rotate track forward or back. Just force it off center to get it out of the "set groove".
Test fire and see where the track lands.

Using Small adjustments, and manually aligning the track by hand, eliminates the sudden jump that we've all experienced.

I've used this procedure countless times on Tri Hub models, J&T 4 Wheels kits, Tri Hubs with outside wheel kits, and all earlier models. Result is always the same. Very accurate track alignment.

Don't get too OCD about the gaps. The track Will dance from side to side. Tight finger measurement on one side, and loose yet just snug finger measurement on the other is fine.

Next step is trail test. At random stops, measure with your finger. Chances are one stop will be closer to one side. Next stop, it will be closer to the other. Your golden. If not, remember Small adjustments Will make a Huge difference. Ride on!
 
It appears that I'm the only one who really doesn't have an issue with track alignment.
For what it's worth, here's how I do it.....

Sled is on the stand......

Hyfax to track drivers/knubs is the reference.
Side with the biggest gap
-loosen axle nut on that side only
-tighten adjuster bolt a couple turns. Not full turns. Just what I can get through the rail

Here's the important part....
-By hand, engine off, rotate track forcing the "big gap" to become the "small gap". Meaning total misalignment from where you first started. This helps the track get over the "bulge", or "groove" that it's used to riding in.
-Tighten axle nut
-Start machine and gently spin the track. Slowly back off throttle until track stops.
-Observe where the track has landed. Is the gap smaller than when you started? It should walk back some. or did it stay totally misaligned?
-chances are, the gap got smaller from where you first started.
-If not, adjust accordingly. When your close, Very Small Adjustments will make a Big difference.
-Axle nuts Must be tight before testing/re-testing.

Key is forcing track, by hand engine off, in the direction you want the track to move plus a little more. Doesn't matter if you rotate track forward or back. Just force it off center to get it out of the "set groove".
Test fire and see where the track lands.

Using Small adjustments, and manually aligning the track by hand, eliminates the sudden jump that we've all experienced.

I've used this procedure countless times on Tri Hub models, J&T 4 Wheels kits, Tri Hubs with outside wheel kits, and all earlier models. Result is always the same. Very accurate track alignment.

Don't get too OCD about the gaps. The track Will dance from side to side. Tight finger measurement on one side, and loose yet just snug finger measurement on the other is fine.

Next step is trail test. At random stops, measure with your finger. Chances are one stop will be closer to one side. Next stop, it will be closer to the other. Your golden. If not, remember Small adjustments Will make a Huge difference. Ride on!

It really doesn’t need to be set so precise IMO.
You could do it like the manual says and just measure the track droop and be done. :dead:
 
Now we have to re-write the "old sayings" book.
It used to be "close only counts in Croquet & Grenades".
Now it's "close only counts in Croquet, Grenades & Pro-Cross Track Alignment".

Next thing you know KNAPP will use a smiling Emoji after every post

Times are-a-changin' boys

They are-a-changin'
 
Last edited:
You gotta stop using those Crochet needles for picking out earwax Steveo.
 


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