Found the leak, it was the 2 inch line between the electric pump and the regulator.
The fitting that comes out of the pump does not have a barb on the end. Put new hose on and screw on clamps in place of the crush ones that it came with.
All I need now is to get it to some snow.
The fitting that comes out of the pump does not have a barb on the end. Put new hose on and screw on clamps in place of the crush ones that it came with.
All I need now is to get it to some snow.
its usually always something simple!!!!
Buckeye
Lifetime Member
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- Apr 13, 2003
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- Lakes Region, NH
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- Snowmobile
- 2018 Sidewinder LE XTX 137" 50th Aniversary
nitro said:
That is true, but it is only simple after you find it.
really?
Any adverse effects to removing the vacuum lines from the stock fuel pumps and just capping @ the carb boots?
Reason being is that I have a hidden disconnect on the hot wire to the electric pump. I figure that if someone tries to drive it away, they aren't going to get very far on whats in the float bowels.
I realize that if someone wants it bad enough they will get it, running out of fuel after 50 feet may stop someone.
Reason being is that I have a hidden disconnect on the hot wire to the electric pump. I figure that if someone tries to drive it away, they aren't going to get very far on whats in the float bowels.
I realize that if someone wants it bad enough they will get it, running out of fuel after 50 feet may stop someone.
No there is no adverse effect. The only reason they are there is as a backup if the electric pump goes haywire. I have not heard of anyone having that problem yet.
MEAT
Expert
HOW IS IT POSSIBLE TO REDUCE SQUISH BY ADDING A THICKER HEAD GASKET?
Had the sled running, and engaged the clutch for the first time since I found the gas leak.
It starts fine hot or cold and idles fine below approx 1100RPM's. Had the back end up with a cherry picker so I could adjust the track and make sure everything was ok.
If I would raise the idle up to 1200RPM's or more and then give it gas, to engage the clutches it would not come back down below about 3000RPM.
It was fine as long as I kept the idle down to 1100 or under.
Carbs are all stock. Only thing I did to them was set the pilot screws so they were equal at 2 turns out.
I'm at about 1000ft elevation and it was approx 50F outside.
I plan on doing the carb synchronization this week end.
Is there something else I may be missing? Thanks
It starts fine hot or cold and idles fine below approx 1100RPM's. Had the back end up with a cherry picker so I could adjust the track and make sure everything was ok.
If I would raise the idle up to 1200RPM's or more and then give it gas, to engage the clutches it would not come back down below about 3000RPM.
It was fine as long as I kept the idle down to 1100 or under.
Carbs are all stock. Only thing I did to them was set the pilot screws so they were equal at 2 turns out.
I'm at about 1000ft elevation and it was approx 50F outside.
I plan on doing the carb synchronization this week end.
Is there something else I may be missing? Thanks
snowy1
TY 4 Stroke Guru
you may not have enough play in your cable I had the same problem I readjusted cable play and it went away, was not enough spring tension to pull the cable back down to an idle.
Another question guys. Concerning the large black hose coming from the left front of the engine to the top of the oil tank.
There is really no good way of getting it around the charge tube. If you run it over top the charge tube it causes all the hoses on top of the oil tank to hit the hood. If you run it under the charge tube it flattens it. I have seen pictures of it run both ways.
Will flattening it under the charge tube possibly cause an increase in crank case pressure?
There is really no good way of getting it around the charge tube. If you run it over top the charge tube it causes all the hoses on top of the oil tank to hit the hood. If you run it under the charge tube it flattens it. I have seen pictures of it run both ways.
Will flattening it under the charge tube possibly cause an increase in crank case pressure?
Turbo Tim
TY 4 Stroke Master
I ran it the way the instructions said .......over the top of the charge tube.
I and my buddy both have ours on top. No problems.
Synchronized the carbs today and it took care of my idle down problem. They were way off. Also sounds much cleaner when idling and revs up better. Sounds much better.
Has anyone tried this yet? I think it was Buckeye that said he put an additional breather in the valve cover, in place of the little screw in plug.
What I'm thinking is, removing the little breather that attaches to the stock plastic catch box and running it to a T in the valve cover. Then run a hose from there to a good size K&N breather, that is now connected to both the crank case catch box and the valve cover hole. Put the new breather up near the gas tank. At the very least it should keep any mist away from the clutches and extra belt. Possibly put another T between the valve cover and the breather similiar to the evac system, that you could remove any moisture at the end of the day. My concern is moisture draining back into the valve cover.
What do you guys think?
What I'm thinking is, removing the little breather that attaches to the stock plastic catch box and running it to a T in the valve cover. Then run a hose from there to a good size K&N breather, that is now connected to both the crank case catch box and the valve cover hole. Put the new breather up near the gas tank. At the very least it should keep any mist away from the clutches and extra belt. Possibly put another T between the valve cover and the breather similiar to the evac system, that you could remove any moisture at the end of the day. My concern is moisture draining back into the valve cover.
What do you guys think?
