Installing Front and Rear Skid Plates

[Terminator]

So I finally got my skid plates in from the dealer and I'm wondering if I roll the sled on it's side will I trigger the no start oil priming/pressure problem guys are having? Anyone had a problem installing these skid plates? Which side is best to roll it on?? Clutch side is left side . . . .right? lol

 

[Nytro40th]

I used milk crates to elevate the sled to install my rear skid plate and front sport bar. I worked from underneath with no issues and enough clearnace no need to roll it on its side.

 

[mewaschuk]

x2 - use milk crates. install is a pita. ended up making all new holes in the belly pan. be prepared with a few extra M6 washers since you'll likely have to oval out a few holes to be the fit tight to the body.

 

[Nytro40th]

Oh and I purchaed some longer bolts as well and washers for some of the mounting hardware.

 

[Biglandrider]

I've had my skid out twice now. Once for skid reinforcement and the second time was last night for a track swap. Each time I had the sled on both sides with the bars resting in a holder about the height of a milk crate. It was on each side for a long time as I did the first install with my 10 year old son so it wasn't exactly a walk in the park. Point is....no issues with loss of prime to the oil pump and no oil leakage. My belly pan is sittin there waiting to be put on but there are just so many things on the list to do first.

 

[TestMaster]

Don't forget the extra bolts needed when you drill out the footwell rivets.

 

[Terminator]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Testmaster - Are you saying that not all the hardware comes w/ the plates? If so why not rivets to replace drilled out rivets???

 

[TestMaster]

Thanks for the replies guys.

Testmaster - Are you saying that not all the hardware comes w/ the plates? If so why not rivets to replace drilled out rivets???

All new hardware should be remove and replaceable. Check location of your oil filter access. The rear plate must be nearly removed to access for filter change and to easily drain oil.

As noted by Nytro40th, you will also need some longer hardware to ease assembly and insure full thread engagement. Also used nylock fasteners on mine, don't want to lose fasteners on the trail.

 

[mewaschuk]

i didnt drill out all the rivets around the rotor guard and chain case guard. just drilled new holes into the running boards. holes didnt line up anyways.

 

[scubadoo]

So is it a must to remove rotor guard and chain case guard.I know if I don't the very front bolts will not line up.

 

[Nytro40th]

I did not remove the guards. I believe I bolted the front first than mounted the rear.

 

[TestMaster]

I did not remove the guards. I believe I bolted the front first than mounted the rear.

X2

 

[Terminator]

Will you have to remove the skid plate when you go to change the oil and filter? I think the answer is yes . . . .

 

[TestMaster]

Will you have to remove the skid plate when you go to change the oil and filter? I think the answer is yes . . . .

YES!

 

[cannondale27]

I am using a Cat white one AND a Skinz float plate. I know I will have to remove the Float plate but hopefully not the AC one. Suspect will be some work involved for sure but the AC skid really fits nice and tight and I need something for the sides since stump damage reared its ugly head already. Does Yamaha one look like this one on left?