Installing Skid in 129

[Sevey]

Running into some issues getting this Slide Action skid back up in the tunnel.
I know this is supposed to be a 15 minute job but I cant get the skid far enough back to get the front arms onto the cross shaft.
-track is not caught on the drive cogs,
-rear rollers are fully forward,
-tried collapsing the front arm with a ratchet strap but that didn't help,
-even collapsed the rear shock of the skid making the scissor lie flat.

No go.
What am I missing. I have the back end elevated on a strap so I can adjust height. But I cant force the skid back enough to get those damn arms around the cross shaft.

Should I take the cross shaft out and mount it further forward in the mounting holes?

Thanks
MS

 

[Turtle]

What has worked for me, is to drop the back end of the skid out very far until you can engage the forks on the front torque arm on the cross shaft. Then rotate the rear end of the skid up into the tunnel. With this method, the back end of the skid will be out of the tunnel by a lot - a few feet. I have the back end of my sled hanging from the ceiling in my shop using a chain hoist so I can lift it quite high. Others may have a different or better method.

 

[Sevey]

If you bring the skid in on such an angle how hard is it to stretch the track around the rear rollers, cause its gonna be tight.
Do you just work it through one wheel at a time?
MS

 

[snowdust]

I found that the height of the rear is a big deal. Everyone told me to get it real high and I was struggling like you. I lowered it some and then it was easier to get up there. I had the springs unsprung (not a real word) as well so it is collapsed.

 

[cannondale27]

Both these guys are right. The skid honestly falls right out at a certain hieght even without loosening track tension or collapsing springs. I just keep raising it till that happens. When putting it in you want to go right to that point or slightly lower. Collapse rear springs. Loosen track tension all the way and Use cardboard between track and skid. This all helps but key is to hook one side at a time pushing back of skid and track to side to accomplish. Then carefully lower sled without it falling out. This is how high it needs to be.

 

[Sevey]

I gather you begin to move the skid into the tunnel on an angle and get one arm slung on the cross shaft? then toggle the back in, to get the other arm on the cross shaft?
Didn't think of the cardboard. good idea.

MS

 

[Sevey]

Thanks to all who chipped in.
Got the thing back in on the weekend. The critical piece (that everyone eluded to) was that the skid has to be brought in on an angle and front arm slung up on the cross shaft - one side at a time. Did not foresee having to swing the track and skid so much to side. All previous machines just needed the skid lined up with the track and up it goes.....

Cannondale, I was unable to get it back in hoisting it high. I ran out of hands; holding the skid, then holding the front arm up to the cross shaft and then forcing it in. I ended up lowering the tunnel and lay beside the sled - head forward. Using leg and foot to push track to the side, one arm to pull the sled ahead using the running board, and the other hand to force the front arm to the cross shaft. Sounds like a yoga move doesn't it....

Regardless - it was a tight fit, the track is new and needs to be stretched.

Thanks again guys
MS

 

[cannondale27]

It’s never a fun job no matter how easy it goes in. Glad you got’er done!

 

[apexgt4life]

Any new pointers gonna try wrestle it back in this weekend. What are you doing with torsion springs. Service manual says leave off blocks on short end.
Dont really understand that
Are u removing spring mounts on rail to relieve tension?

 

[number1kyster]

I relieved the torsion springs and set a jack under the track/skid. I pumped the jack until the holes lined back up. It took me a few tries to get it back in by myself.

 

[Sevey]

I take the springs off where they bolt on the rail. leave the springs on the cam adjuster. once all the bolts are in, elevate the back end and then pull the springs around.

I don't know what it is about this 129 but my track is still tight as a guitar string. It has barely stretched. I question whether its the correct size to be honest. I just snug up the adjusters to align the track, don't need to put hardly any tension on it. That's why getting the front arms up on the cross shaft is a pia. My friends 137 just slides in no problem.

Like the earlier comments, place a piece of plywood or cardboard on the floor. Don't under estimate the angle the skid/track is at to get the first front arm hooked on the rail. I hook my foot on the back corner of the track and stretch it to the rear (on an angle) as I lift the front of the skid up. I even put a strap on the sled's nose so it doesn't roll back and is anchored.

I tell people what I go through and they all think I am nuts, but that's what works.
MS

 

[Mototown]

Take the rear scissor stops off the rails , they are just in front or your scissors . Makes suspension install easy

 

[TrueBlue]

Both these guys are right. The skid honestly falls right out at a certain hieght even without loosening track tension or collapsing springs. I just keep raising it till that happens. When putting it in you want to go right to that point or slightly lower. Collapse rear springs. Loosen track tension all the way and Use cardboard between track and skid. This all helps but key is to hook one side at a time pushing back of skid and track to side to accomplish. Then carefully lower sled without it falling out. This is how high it needs to be.
View attachment 140821

I use old slide runners between track & skid & that works pretty good to.

 

[rtx moose]

its all in the height you raise your sled up too,period...done!!!!!

 

[Carla 123]

I use a ratchet strap to pull track and skid back far enough to get front of skid on front cross shaft.then I use a floor Jack with a piece of2×6 under the track to line up rear bolts.can put skid back in and bolted up in 15 minutes.