RAMSOMAIR
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FACT
snowdust
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Did this today. I can't imagine trying to do it without taking off the throttle body. Not a horrible job, but time consuming. Thanks to everyone on this thread as the feedback helped.
Turbomax
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I finished this today and also agree with snowdust. I tried without removing the throttle body but was getting too frustrated. I didn’t remove the throttle bodies fully from the sled, but by removing all the connections to it and removing the top steering post mount I was able to pull on the throttle bodies and remove each intake flange to do the work on the hose clamps. You can then re-install the flange with the hose clamps already re-worked without risking losing pieces. Something that really helps is long hex bit sockets (ball ended ideally).
Doc Harley
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So, if I read things correctly. Stock winders do not need to make this adjustment to clamp spacers?
Turboflash
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Well, maybe not but IMO it's a situation of either you presently have boost leaks (even if minor) or you're going to have boost leaks. So pretty much you're gonna need to do it sometime.
ViperSbite
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Hope everyone had a nice Christmas!!
I had a question on this for the guys that removed the throttle body assembly. I removed the connector to the fuel rail, assume I have to remove the pressure regulator as well if I want to keep things intact and avoid removing injectors, etc.?
Appreciate any input!! Thx!!
I had a question on this for the guys that removed the throttle body assembly. I removed the connector to the fuel rail, assume I have to remove the pressure regulator as well if I want to keep things intact and avoid removing injectors, etc.?
Appreciate any input!! Thx!!
KnappAttack
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You don't have to unhook any of the lines. Just pull the throttle bodies out and pull far enough out to remove the rubber boots and clamps from in between. There is just enough room to do it without unhooking any lines. Just do one boot at a time on the bench and re-install, the three boots are different and you don't want to mix them up.
ViperSbite
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Ok, that makes sense, thank you. I'll give that a go, one at a time, this afternoon!!
Thx again.
Thx again.
Kuzzy
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This is on my list of things to do... I've completely gutted the chain case pulled the track, F'd around with my suspension and wiring but somehow messing with these intake boots and anything to do with clutching makes me Very nervous. However once I overcome those 2 challenges, nothing much is going to be in the way of me mastering these sidewinders in my sleep.
Yamarace998
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Why not use normal hoose clamps istead of the yamaha stock clamps on the rubber boots? I dont see any problem with that if you cut away the rubber guide for the stock clamp? I pull 30 psi on my sled on stock tension so maybe I should fix that...
1nc 2000
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The clamps and boots have notches in them so the clamps won't rotate.
Here is a photo from the bottom of the throttle body.
Here is a photo from the bottom of the throttle body.
Yamarace998
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Yes, but if you cut away the notches? Cant see any problem then too use a normal hoose clamp?
1nc 2000
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The inside is also notched so the boots don't rotate. May require some grinding of metal.
Yamarace998
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Yea, but if I use the stock rubber boots, and just cut away the outside notch. Then a normal hoose clamp can be used and you can have all tighten from under the TB. Will try tomorrow but cant see why that should be a problem
1nc 2000
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I dont remember if their is anti rotation tabs inside.
Your best bet is just to remove the throttle bodies and find out.
Why not put silicone hoses in place then with real clamps instead of hose clamps that will tear up your hose.
Your best bet is just to remove the throttle bodies and find out.
Why not put silicone hoses in place then with real clamps instead of hose clamps that will tear up your hose.
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