Is my driveshaft worn?

so warranty should cover this?
For me they would have covered it if I would have brought my machine. But given it was half 80% apart with no suspension there was no way I could bring it in. Either way, the fact that a new shaft and bearing still have this issue is brutal. Costing me $100 CDN to have mine welded and machined to proper clearance.
 
For me they would have covered it if I would have brought my machine. But given it was half 80% apart with no suspension there was no way I could bring it in. Either way, the fact that a new shaft and bearing still have this issue is brutal. Costing me $100 CDN to have mine welded and machined to proper clearance.
Probably better off in the long run.
 
How are you guys checking the play in the bearing to the shaft? The other night I loosen the three bolts holding the bearing/brake caliper hanger. But I tried to pull it off by hand and it didn't move. Are the ones that are worn just pulling right off with easy? I was afraid to remove the bolts completely as I still have the skid and track tension and so forth on it and was sure if I'd be able to get everything back together without removing the skid and so forth. I really was planning on installing my BOP shaft expander next season with a track change and new shaft if need be, but thought what the heck might as well check it, so for this year it's really not the end out the world either way. Just looking for some info on this situation we all have or will have.
 
How are you guys checking the play in the bearing to the shaft? The other night I loosen the three bolts holding the bearing/brake caliper hanger. But I tried to pull it off by hand and it didn't move. Are the ones that are worn just pulling right off with easy? I was afraid to remove the bolts completely as I still have the skid and track tension and so forth on it and was sure if I'd be able to get everything back together without removing the skid and so forth. I really was planning on installing my BOP shaft expander next season with a track change and new shaft if need be, but thought what the heck might as well check it, so for this year it's really not the end out the world either way. Just looking for some info on this situation we all have or will have.
I just loosen the track. I did put a small bottle jack from the front arm to the drive axle, but it really isn't needed. You have to take the assembly off, and the splined brake rotor out, then you can feel how the bearing fits. I think some have a problem taking the brake rotor off because of burrs on the spline. That's the main reason I take mine off every year, as that area likes to get rusty.
 
Good luck. My brother and nephew both checked their 2017 TCats yesterday. Both are toast. Bearing is worn about .003-.004" and shafts are worn down about same. Both got the 3-year warranty so they'll be talking to their dealer. Sleds have about 3500 miles on them.
Update on these 2 TCats (Both have 280 Tunes in them since day 1 and lots of long studs):
Dealer (in southern MN) is going to warranty everything for both sleds (new track shafts, new bearings both sides, new seals both sides). Get this, he said he's never heard of this problem!! Really?!!
Shows you what a sheltered life they lead. All I can do is shake my head.
 
Dumb question but to get the rotor off do you remove the brake pads to gain enough clearance to slide the rotor off? Or is the rotor,pads and bearing housing/caliper hanger supposed to come off all together?
 
Dumb question but to get the rotor off do you remove the brake pads to gain enough clearance to slide the rotor off? Or is the rotor,pads and bearing housing/caliper hanger supposed to come off all together?
The whole caliper assembly comes off.
 
1. It is possible to slide the whole assy off once you remove outer snap ring and remove the 3 bolts (from inside tunnel) that hold the inner housing onto the tunnel. You'll need to support track shaft. I made a little tool that fits between the top rail cross shaft and the track shaft to hold track shaft in place and take pressure off the caliper housing.
2. Many find it easier to split the brake caliper (knowing they'll have to re-assemble and bleed it when they put it back together). Still have to support track shaft, etc.
3. Many pull rail out to make the whole job easier.

Good luck and have fun!
 
I laid next to my sled and was able to push my driveshaft up and down while everything was still together. That's how much my shaft was worn. I also had to split my caliper and use a puller to get my rotor off. The shaft wore so bad there was a metal ring wedged into the splines of the rotor. My original bearing was ok after 10000kms, but was repacked yearly. I'm sure it wore the race from the shaft spinning inside. I went with a japanese bearing to replace the OEM china one.

I just can't believe I didnt have any vibration.
 
Green loctite did not work on my sled. I took it apart tonight. Brake rotor ruined and drive shaft. I’m going to get this drove shaft sleeved and buy the tool from Travis. This is getting old.

keep us posted on how much torque is required for the bop tool
 
Green loctite did not work on my sled. I took it apart tonight. Brake rotor ruined and drive shaft. I’m going to get this drove shaft sleeved and buy the tool from Travis. This is getting old.

keep us posted on how much torque is required for the bop tool
What happened to the brake rotor?
 
What happened to the brake rotor?
When the drive shaft spins the bearing it also spins the rotor against the back of the bearing And machines it away ( see the pic) If you don’t replace the rotor it will rattle like crazy
This will be my third axle and rotor
 

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When the drive shaft spins the bearing it also spins the rotor against the back of the bearing And machines it away ( see the pic) If you don’t replace the rotor it will rattle like crazy
This will be my third axle and rotor
Ok I didnt notice any wear on my rotor.
 


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