New Driveshaft ID Smaller

[Turboflash]

Do you have any miles yet with the shaft spray welded? I decided to go one step up and have the winder shaft chrome plated, its harder than a weld and I was told by more than a few people that spray welding is prone to flaking. Fit is very tight with a new SKF bearing, I have to heat the inner race of the bearing to slip it on the shaft. This may bring on some headaches and I will find that out soon but once together I wont be worrying about it.

Not on mine yet but 2 of my friends had this done at the same place and it worked great over last winter (about 2500 miles). Just a week ago, we used the BOP puller to remove bearing. Had to heat it up because we had used green loctite when we assembled it. It was still tight on shaft (interference fit), shaft looked exactly same as when we put it together, no wear or flaking, etc. If done correctly, spray welding works. The shaft was ground on centers after spray welding to provide a .0002-.0003" interference fit to bearing per ISO specs for this size bearing. If you do this, remember to use a C3 fit bearing so as not to introduce radial preload into the bearing when you press it on.

 

[ClutchMaster]

Tflash, what they set ya back for a spray weld and cut job?

 

[ClutchMaster]

I know the powder is expensive.

 

[Yam4Strokin]

Tflash, what they set ya back for a spray weld and cut job?

I had Ulmer do a shaft last year and I know he was doing them for a few dealers. I think it was about $100 total with shipping back to me.

 

[Yam4Strokin]

From what Ulmer told me, shafts ordered as parts, have not been updated, they won't be updated until they run out of old inventory of shafts in the warehouse. 2021 sleds have a new updated shaft installed at the factory.

 

[Turboflash]

Any chance of finding out what updates are?

 

[Turboflash]

Tflash, what they set ya back for a spray weld and cut job?

I had mine done at a company that rebuilds electric motors. Common for bearing to fail and shaft will spin in bearing grinding shaft down. Thet charged me $225. Prep (turn to clean up), spray weld, grind on centers to customer spec. Not cheap but worth it for me. This was back when there was a national back-order on shafts. Didn't want a new shaft anyway. Wanted interference fit on both ends which is where I am now.

 

[ClutchMaster]

One of these thing-a-majigs

I guess it’s a box of doughnuts and coffee for me next time I have it out.

 

[Turboflash]

Well, I didn't get to watch mine being done but the tech that did it does it every all day long. It's all he does for that company - fix shafts every day so he's an expert at it.

 

[Sevey]

Anyone know who does this type of welding in Southern Ontario?

MS

 

[no1b4me]

Anyone know who does this type of welding in Southern Ontario?

MS

Give them a call... They are in Orangeville... They do spray welding
http://www.mcdonald-tool.com/

 

[SnoWarrior]

I got the shaft saver turned down to 1.228 at a machine shop.
All Good in Wedgie Thing Vile now!

 

[Big_Phil]

Anyone know who does this type of welding in Southern Ontario?

MS

Ken Ferguson Enterprises. He is not far from you in Nottawa. He did my buddies driveshaft last season. Cost was around $100. They are sledders too so they like helping out the DIY sled repair guys.

 

[Sevey]

Ken Ferguson Enterprises. He is not far from you in Nottawa. He did my buddies driveshaft last season. Cost was around $100. They are sledders too so they like helping out the DIY sled repair guys.

Thanks - I know Ken, as he is only 15km away from my cottage. Didnt know he spray welded.

How many guys are doing both sides of the shaft?
MS

 

[Turboflash]

Thanks - I know Ken, as he is only 15km away from my cottage. Didnt know he spray welded.

How many guys are doing both sides of the shaft?
MS

I did. While I know it's very rare or even unheard of, I didn't want the shaft spinning inside the chain case side bearing either. I had my guy just do a very light interference on that side.
Remember, you need to be able to get bearing onto journal (and hopefully have a plan to get it off if need be). On brake side it's easy to pull that housing with bearing in it if you press bearing on, or loctite or whatever. Travis at BOP published a puller template to make that puller. However, on the chain case side, if you decide to press that bearing on, getting it off could be a problem. I don't like the idea of just pounding on the end of the shaft to beat it out of that bearing. Bearing is captured by case so there is no option to pull shaft without removing bearing. Best option IMO is to first pull the brake side, then remove snap ring on case side (after removing gears) and using shaft to push the bearing out of the case still pressed on shaft. Then, either try warming the bearing inner up so it releases, or use a puller to pull it off. To me, heating bearing inner is preferable (probably won't take very much heat) so as to not put force through the bearing and possibly damaging balls or raceways by using a puller on outer ring of bearing.