Byam
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Hi guys
I am putting a new track and want to change all bearings. Everything is removed, i think....lol.
Now i can't removed jack shaft and clutch side bearing. A little help for procedure would be greatly appreciated
I am putting a new track and want to change all bearings. Everything is removed, i think....lol.
Now i can't removed jack shaft and clutch side bearing. A little help for procedure would be greatly appreciated
Check Viper FAQ sticky. Winder is easier since wobble bearing and collar is gone. Just take frame support clutch side bolts out and slide Jackshaft whole assembly out.
Byam
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Thanks I like the video in this thread
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/jack-shaft-removal-need-help.144621/page-2
Do you think it's possible to remove just the shaft and clutch side bearing whit out removing the gaz tank and brace?
https://ty4stroke.com/threads/jack-shaft-removal-need-help.144621/page-2
Do you think it's possible to remove just the shaft and clutch side bearing whit out removing the gaz tank and brace?
Yes
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2005
- Messages
- 7,503
- Location
- Huntsville Ontario & Niagara NY
- Country
- Other
- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
Very nice....I have not removed Jshaft yet.
I see there is a inner circlip on outside of PTO bearing on Jshaft.....Basicially where my secondary clutch shims ride against.
So is that jshaft bearing on PTO side pressed into the Jshaft bracket? Or does it pop out like shown in that video you mentioned?
I dont have to do mine but always like to know if/when i do mine.
Dan
I see there is a inner circlip on outside of PTO bearing on Jshaft.....Basicially where my secondary clutch shims ride against.
So is that jshaft bearing on PTO side pressed into the Jshaft bracket? Or does it pop out like shown in that video you mentioned?
I dont have to do mine but always like to know if/when i do mine.
Dan
Its pressed in but a hammer makes anything go. I would remove it whole and use a press.
If I did chaincase side bearings again I would remove whole inner case also since its not that difficult to do and those bolts holding case inner in tunnel demand attention anyway.
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2005
- Messages
- 7,503
- Location
- Huntsville Ontario & Niagara NY
- Country
- Other
- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
What about that circlip? What is that doing?
So how is the taper oriented on the Jshaft? I guess the bearing must slide onto the Jshaft from PTO side overtop of the splined secondary end.
And so the bearing must seat in from the outside inward correct?
thx
Dan
Viper with locking collar doesnt have a clip but groove is there. It was added since locking collar on chaincase side was removed. Would imagine they dont want the brake side bearing getting knocked out. Its not a very tight press fit either way. Yes outside inward.
And yes I have to service that bearing! Hey Mr Sled look at all the rust. Should I sell it!
ROCKERDAN
OCD Sledhead
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2005
- Messages
- 7,503
- Location
- Huntsville Ontario & Niagara NY
- Country
- Other
- Snowmobile
- '18 RTX 50th "Winder"
yeah the winder has a circlip on PTO Jshaft bearing....seen here on mine.
Yup thats there so the jackshaft doesnt float over to chaincase cover. Up to 17 all the ProCrosses had a locking collar like Apex has in chaincase side so not needed.
Byam
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I was going to did it like that, but when i saw the chaincase backing behind all this i changed my mind
Is the viper like this? I managed to remove everything with a little heat and a little hammer. i have put my old drive-in bearing in the garbage....:-/ I tought it was a 6206 but no! Can somebody give me the right number please?
Thanks
Viper is same. Your call. The lower Drivebearing in case is same as brakeside bearing but seal removed. 6009rsfp Peer.
Byam
TY 4 Stroke Guru
The black brace is holding the turbo and everything.... i didn't wanna go that far.....
My 6009 drive shaft bearing are done. Nachi bearing (made in japan) in caliper was still in very good condition after 5000km it was the oem in the chaincase. A little bit of loose after 10 050km. I think it would have been good for another 5000km but i have put a new one just in case. Nachi bearing on the top chaincase have 5000km and look new so i am not changing this one, i am looking for the # of the one behind the drive-in, sorry i wasn't clear. The inner id on the jackshaft is smaller on clutchside than the chaincase.
My 6009 drive shaft bearing are done. Nachi bearing (made in japan) in caliper was still in very good condition after 5000km it was the oem in the chaincase. A little bit of loose after 10 050km. I think it would have been good for another 5000km but i have put a new one just in case. Nachi bearing on the top chaincase have 5000km and look new so i am not changing this one, i am looking for the # of the one behind the drive-in, sorry i wasn't clear. The inner id on the jackshaft is smaller on clutchside than the chaincase.
