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Keep an eye on your chain tensioner idler bolt!

I’ve had good luck just cleaning the bolts and holes really good with solvent then reassemble with red locktite. Did this when it was new been checking every year and it’s still holding fine
Question for everyone. I have a newly purchased 2020 sidewinder with 900 miles on it. I have the chaincase open for the first time to replace that top bearing with the dmc upper bearing and also change to the brass shifting fork pads. I currently have the chain tensior off. The front bolt on the roller has green compound on it and was on there good. The back side bolt is just spinning inside the roller and I cannot get it out for the life of me. I wanted to remove both of these bolts to clean them up and throw some red loctite on them as I do not know how to weld. Any suggestions on how to remove that backside bolt that is spinning in there? Or do I just clean the front one and put red loctite on that one and call it good? Any info is appreciated. Thanks!
 

Question for everyone. I have a newly purchased 2020 sidewinder with 900 miles on it. I have the chaincase open for the first time to replace that top bearing with the dmc upper bearing and also change to the brass shifting fork pads. I currently have the chain tensior off. The front bolt on the roller has green compound on it and was on there good. The back side bolt is just spinning inside the roller and I cannot get it out for the life of me. I wanted to remove both of these bolts to clean them up and throw some red loctite on them as I do not know how to weld. Any suggestions on how to remove that backside bolt that is spinning in there? Or do I just clean the front one and put red loctite on that one and call it good? Any info is appreciated. Thanks!
Top gear** not bearing. Smh
 
You have to put the one you have out back in and tighten it up, then break the other side free. May have to do this side to side a few times to get both bolts out. Hopefully that makes sense
 
Question for everyone. I have a newly purchased 2020 sidewinder with 900 miles on it. I have the chaincase open for the first time to replace that top bearing with the dmc upper bearing and also change to the brass shifting fork pads. I currently have the chain tensior off. The front bolt on the roller has green compound on it and was on there good. The back side bolt is just spinning inside the roller and I cannot get it out for the life of me. I wanted to remove both of these bolts to clean them up and throw some red loctite on them as I do not know how to weld. Any suggestions on how to remove that backside bolt that is spinning in there? Or do I just clean the front one and put red loctite on that one and call it good? Any info is appreciated. Thanks!
If the back one is still seated- I would install the front - take to a weld shop- and have a guy place a tack on each side.

If you are bent on doing it try using a heat gun to see if the bolt will release.
Ms
 
You have to put the one you have out back in and tighten it up, then break the other side free. May have to do this side to side a few times to get both bolts out. Hopefully that makes sense
It does. Thank you for the quick response. I'll give that a try in the morning. It's the only thing keeping me from getting the sled back together.
 
If the back one is still seated- I would install the front - take to a weld shop- and have a guy place a tack on each side.

If you are bent on doing it try using a heat gun to see if the bolt will release.
Ms
I may end up doing this if it gives me any more trouble. Probably the safer option. Thank you.
 
Make sure both nuts are cleaned well and dried before re- loctiting. Give the loctite decent time to set before filling chaincase with oil as well

Glad you got it
Ms
 
Don't forget to clean threads in axle too, not just screws.
 
I have had good luck with this issue thus far at almost 10,000 miles. But what about the other components. Gears look great and chain looks good. However, magnets are always full of metal fillings. Should I be replacing chain etc?
 
I have had good luck with this issue thus far at almost 10,000 miles. But what about the other components. Gears look great and chain looks good. However, magnets are always full of metal fillings. Should I be replacing chain etc?
I replaced the chain at 10k. Gears were fine so left them.
 
I have had good luck with this issue thus far at almost 10,000 miles. But what about the other components. Gears look great and chain looks good. However, magnets are always full of metal fillings. Should I be replacing chain etc?

As the chain ages and stretches you will get to a point where there is not enough adjustment to add enough tension to it - thats when it is time to change it out. Preferably before that.
Also - chains were backordered (when i did mine) so it may be difficult to get. leave enough time.
MS
 


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