• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Lets talkTurbo Nytro 180-200 hp clutching

to quote TURK....

Turk said:
Right place at the right time

I have all the specs right here.
White/white has the exact same specs as a white.

Pink/pink same as a pink.

They all measure out the same.
 

i running ulmer H helix, supertip 50 Y, O-P-O primary spring, white sek spring 70 degres, i would test 80 because the rpm drops in deep snow.
 
Thanks for everyone help this is what I went with and it seems to be working good. Haven't been able to get a ton of testing as it decided to ran in MN and not snow.

This is at sea level at 9-9.5 psi
STM 55 gram weights
Base loaded with 8 washers
Tip with one tungsten.

BWB primary spring

Secondary
Shockwave helix. 1 or 1.5 turns out cant rememeber where I left it.
EPI primary spring set at 0-1.

I will say this. I have had a few turbo 2-strokes and this thing at 10 pounds is alot of fun. It pulls like no other and just keeps pulling. Plus I'm really liking the no race gas needed.

I will continue to update this as I can get more testing done.
 
So if yamahas white and white-white is the same , how is it then that the last one can do 120deg without bindning ? Should i get the arctic cat green or red, or maybee dalton red? Have started to burn belts since done 121-144 on My tapex, guessing the sec i slipping
 
Dalton Red, leave the AC springs for the AC clutches they are designed for.
 
Yeah my thougts exactly, arctic parts in a yammi makes me hurl :p

But where to buy one? Would samt realt fast and USA isnt near Sweden :/

And a curious question. Heard the white and white-white spring are the same, except for the w-w can be put up to 120 without coiling, so how Much stronger is the dalton and can i put My w-w to 100 instead for 80 for now and get harder pressure?

Hope you have the answer rxrider for both getting the dalton fast up in the north and the question with w-w vs w
 
vmax4ever said:
Yeah my thougts exactly, arctic parts in a yammi makes me hurl :p

But where to buy one? Would samt realt fast and USA isnt near Sweden :/

And a curious question. Heard the white and white-white spring are the same, except for the w-w can be put up to 120 without coiling, so how Much stronger is the dalton and can i put My w-w to 100 instead for 80 for now and get harder pressure?

Hope you have the answer rxrider for both getting the dalton fast up in the north and the question with w-w vs w


Kolla med desssa
SWEDEN
Speed Technology (Sweden) Address:
Stapelvägen 34D
Zip code: 932 37
Location: Ursviken
Country: SWEDEN
Phone: +46 703810440
 
Well have put about 200 miles on her since I last wrote and she running like a champ. 8 pounds at seal level on pump gas.

Clutching wise the only thing I have changed is i went from 16.5 rollers to 15 rollers. I was getting some harsh/high engagment and that just doesnt work in the deep.
Switching to 15 roller lowered engagment about 500RPMs and made for a much smother engagement also

I will be ordering some 14.5 roller here soon but I wanted to try a small roller before spending the 150 bucks on them and it just so happens that my back up sled is a 08 phazer and those come factor with 15 rollers. Sled has been riding in 2 yrs so it wont miss a few test parts off of it.

Mike
 
TurboM700

14.5 rollers are the way to go.
To get a real smooth engagement, make sure your belt to primary sheave clearance are at 0.7 millimeter or 0.028 inches. Way better for dragracing as well.
 
vmax4ever

The White and the Wh-Wh springs are exactly the same according to the Service Manual.
Every property of the springs are the same, even tho the partno's are different.
 
rxrider said:
TurboM700

14.5 rollers are the way to go.
To get a real smooth engagement, make sure your belt to primary sheave clearance are at 0.7 millimeter or 0.028 inches. Way better for dragracing as well.

rxrider - How do you achieve the .7mm sheave clearance? Are machining the collars or is there another way to do it? I know the Meagapower dial adjust worked well but one would have to go up on the rollers not to disturb the shift curve.
 
Split the primary in two. There are two half moon spacers inside the clutch that set the minimum distance between the stationary and the movable sheaves. If the clearance are too big grind down the two half moons until you have the desired clearance. Measured clearance minus the amount to grind off = the desired clearance (0.7 mm or 0.028 inch).
You need the Yamaha clutch tool, a wise and a heat gun. Remember the primary clutch sheave have links threads (you need to tighten to loosen). Heat the stationary sheave with a heat gun strap down the clutch tool and primary clutch in a wise, add the primary clutch tool to the holes on the inside of the stationary sheave add a lot of force, you may have to add more heat if it's stuck real bad.

This adjustment of clearance will not disturb the way the clutch shifts. It will only get better, the smooth takeoff keeps the track from spinning out like a clutch with a huge clearance will. Too much clearance makes the clutch sheaves slam into the belt at engagement.
 


Back
Top