• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

LTX 137 lack of transfer..Reasoning/Solution?

Anymore info on this travis?

We put 500 miles last week on my prototype relocate that we installed on my buddy's 14 ltx. It performed flawelessly for him at 140 lbs. He was running the blocks on the Soft setting. Once I get caught up on getting orders out I'm going to give the kit a good look over to see for sure that there are no issues after the ride.

I did run the relocate on my 17 winder ltx dx for one day. I had it on the H setting, but it was too soft for me at 200-210 geared up. I'd say the relocate is going to be ideal for the 190 and under riders.
 

Here’s a peak at what I’ve been working at. Basically its a bolt on linkage kit that relocates the adjuster blocks to reduce preload. No drilling, welding, bending...just bolt it in! Have a 140 and 165 rider coming over saturday to do some sit in measurements with the prototype.

You can’t expect a sled to transfer if its too stiff to yield propper sag.

View attachment 134141
Did you ever get this done to point you could sell a few
 
I've been on this chassis for 6 years now. I you want to really pull the skis you take the blocks and shaft out, but be aware the skis do not come back down until you get off the throttle. It squats back and stays there. It's not a setup for trail riding.
I pull the blocks out and put the shaft back in with the flat facing forward. If you're studded properly it hooks up and goes. Not a ton of ski lift, but as Mike said you really don't want too much of that for straight line acceleration. Mine comes out of the hole extremely hard and stays relatively flat. IMO the only way to go is with the blocks removed and shaft in place. If you're after a lot of ski lift then you really need a 129.
I cant get jack for ski lift on my 129. I have the blocks shaved down to the point where If I remove the blocks and just have the rod I am not gaining much more. All I want is enough lift if I need it for going over a bad spot where you want the skis up to not hook anything.
 
I cant get jack for ski lift on my 129. I have the blocks shaved down to the point where If I remove the blocks and just have the rod I am not gaining much more. All I want is enough lift if I need it for going over a bad spot where you want the skis up to not hook anything.

se or le?
 
no...what are these settings and whats your your weight?

studs (size and quantity)
torsion springs?
limiter straps?
your weight with gear?
center shock spring tensioned to?
Limiter is all the way out loose. Torsion springs was at 2 went down to 1 with no change so went back to 2 for my rider weight. With gear i am around 225. Rear center shock is about half way. I will be adjusting it after I try out the new pilot skis I just put on. Front ski shocks tension is all the way loose. No studs at the moment but will for next season. Season is done where I live. No studs is probably the issue but didnt think it would be that bad seeing my apex unstudded had no problems. Lifting the skis.
 
Limiter is all the way out loose. Torsion springs was at 2 went down to 1 with no change so went back to 2 for my rider weight. With gear i am around 225. Rear center shock is about half way. I will be adjusting it after I try out the new pilot skis I just put on. Front ski shocks tension is all the way loose. No studs at the moment but will for next season. Season is done where I live. No studs is probably the issue but didnt think it would be that bad seeing my apex unstudded had no problems. Lifting the skis.
Studs will probably solve your problem. From there you can tighten the spring on the front track shock and keep the torsion spring and rear shock as soft as possible without excessive bottoming out. I never had a problem with transfer on my previous 129" 1100 Turbo, but I was studded from day 1 with blocks set on 1.
 


Back
Top