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LTX 137 lack of transfer..Reasoning/Solution?

Ha Ha is that your little race track with jumps steve? Ya we got a tad more snow than that,but I don't have my owne little course,like some of us do lol. nice work steve,when you think river will be safe?
Actually it's a 1.5 mile long track with some big jumps but most of track is hilly so all the snow was gone leaving the frozen ground and rocks that are stuck into the ground. Daughter somehow lost the rest of that footage! River should be good by next weekend and more snow coming. I see 110 clearly. Heck some of you Winder guys haven't even got that yet!
 

Not the one i got from Hygear. It's .5mm thinner with smaller coils & one extra coil. It's in the machine, but with the sled off the ground i don't see a bend.
Mine from hygear is smaller diameter, has 1 more coil
but also has a bend on the long side right after the coils. I'm only 140 lbs, but the sled definitely compresses when I sit on it now
 
Mine from hygear is smaller diameter, has 1 more coil
but also has a bend on the long side right after the coils. I'm only 140 lbs, but the sled definitely compresses when I sit on it now
Sounds like a 100% better that’s awsome!
 
Mine from hygear is smaller diameter, has 1 more coil
but also has a bend on the long side right after the coils. I'm only 140 lbs, but the sled definitely compresses when I sit on it now

Well if it works with you at 140, it should work with everybody else also.
Except for our 70 pound Humble Shepard Don:aka VX1R. To be fair he does weigh 150 with his wallet.
I think this spring is going to work through the whole range. I agree with CANNONDALE that the shocks should do the work, but the spring HAS to be in the "window" of functionality for the shocks to do their job.

I didn't notice much more sag or sit-in, but i haven't really played yet
 
Last night my father and buddy were here servicing their ltx vipers. My father weighs in at around 165 and we could only get 1.5" of sit in with springs on the softest setting on his sled. My buddy weights 135, and the sled wouldn't even budge when he got on his.

I had the torsion block relocate on my ltx sidewinder and it was a substantial difference for them. Sit in with my dad for each of the 3 positions was 2.375, 3.3125, and 3.9

My lightweight buddy was able to obtain 2.875" of sit in on the softest setting.
 
Last night my father and buddy were here servicing their ltx vipers. My father weighs in at around 165 and we could only get 1.5" of sit in with springs on the softest setting on his sled. My buddy weights 135, and the sled wouldn't even budge when he got on his.

I had the torsion block relocate on my ltx sidewinder and it was a substantial difference for them. Sit in with my dad for each of the 3 positions was 2.375, 3.3125, and 3.9

My lightweight buddy was able to obtain 2.875" of sit in on the softest setting.
curious how a 250lb rider influences the stock spring setup with regard to sit in. Nice thing about your kit (still in prototype, right?) is the ability to try a few different holes AND return it to stock etc.
 
Last night my father and buddy were here servicing their ltx vipers. My father weighs in at around 165 and we could only get 1.5" of sit in with springs on the softest setting on his sled. My buddy weights 135, and the sled wouldn't even budge when he got on his.

I had the torsion block relocate on my ltx sidewinder and it was a substantial difference for them. Sit in with my dad for each of the 3 positions was 2.375, 3.3125, and 3.9

My lightweight buddy was able to obtain 2.875" of sit in on the softest setting.
Travis, dumb question - but where are you measuring the "sit in"?
 
HAHA! I guess so. Either works, I usually am doing it myself! Accurate to the 1/2" inch at best.
 
Sit in ? IMO>This is how > take your sled out and run it down the trail with another person riding another sled. Run about 20 miles or so and stop on a FLAT surface, do not move on your sled (stay seated as if your still riding) . Have someone else check to see where your back suspension is compared to the rear coupler blocks. Or if you removed them check to see where you are at on the metal rod. You should NOT be squatting down far enough to be resting on the back blocks or metal rod. If you are your to soft on the springs. IMO you should be off the back blocks and or metal rod(if coupler blocks removed) when riding. Now when your riding and you pop the flipper yes you should drop down and ride the blocks for some distance. which forces the front skis back down in a sense.. I know it hard to be set up to not be riding on the blocks AND be soft enough for some suspension movement.(as long as your slightly off(( 1" )) the blocks/metal rod at rest is ideal.. so the sled is dropped down SLIGHTLY but yet not on blocks)) IMO that's where you SHOULD be on this chassis, and when you find that happy place this thing transfers and rides awesome. And you will know and feel the difference when hammering the flipper AND LETTING OFF the flipper. Because it will transfer both ways. Sitting on your sled in the garage and different temps and the shock not having been worked some is not a true sense of "sit in" IMO.

Other thing to check when your out riding is the front A arms.. Same thing ride it like you ride it . Stop have someone look from a distance the A arm angle on the front.. The front a arms(top) should be ALMOST perfectly flat to the ground when sitting on sled after 20-30 miles. If you have a SLIGHT angle up towards the middle of the machine that's okay also.(more aggressive jumper guys have a bit more?) Think of them as wings when your looking from a distance towards sled (top a arms)> VERY CLOSE TO FLAT. And this angle will effect "sit In" and transfer.. Hope this sheds some light for some guys. I see way to many guys riding these machines set to SOFT on the back springs.. IMO
 
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