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Major Engine Failure!

Blue shadow said:
Do a leak down test and if your below 10 percent your motor is good has new.

That is ture for the compression, but that won't tell you if a bearing has started to score, or a vavle guide is rough.
 

If you check oil pressure with a gauge some where on the motor,that will likely tell you if you have damage. There should be a spec. range in a service manual. You could pull your valve cover and inspect the cam jurnals for scoring, since this is where lack of oil will show first. For the little time that it ran, it doesn't sound like you would have done any damage. I would at least push yamaha into giving you a warranty on the motor.
 
Thats a good tip.Cam journals would surely show first damage since there is no bearing.Just steel on aluminum.
 
TurboJamie said:
Sell it ASAP and get an XRS.

Give me a break! I just rode 550mi. in the UP mich with my bud who has a new 2010 xrs 800,and after putting on some miles on that thing I'm glad I went with the xtx. The thing vibrates,sucks gas (9.3mi. gal),and oil, munches up a $150 belt every 1000 mi. It does work great in the big ditch moguls,but doesn't ride all that great on normal trail bumps. We figured it out, it costed him with the ski-doo $50 more a day to run his sled over mine at 300 mi a day just in gas and oil. Honestly, I thought the doo would have been a blast to ride,but came away not impressed.
 
I wouldn't even want to know what it has cost me to maintain this RTX, and I am not slamming the sled because, like I said before I have really enjoied this sled.

My buddy has an 09 Ski-doo 800 renegade, and his mileage has only been at most a 1 gallon more at fill ups and that was on the high end, usually not that much. So in a 300 mile day your looking at maybe 20 dollars of fuel.

And oil, if you maintain your oil changes, like I have, (Now that Ihave changed it 5 times in 3400 miles) Thats 3.5 quarts per oil change @ $9 a quart, then add a filter on top of that $10. And your at the tune of $45 per oil change.
Changed at 500 miles, 1200, 2100, 3000 and now with 3400 miles on it. Figure that one out?

Now lets talk ball joints, outer tie rod ends, a-arm bushings, sub-frame, brake pads, radiator brackets, exhaust doughnuts, hy-fax, spindle, drive shaft bearing, broken bolt that holds bottom gear to drive shaft. So don't get me started on how cheap these sleds are to maintain. This has been by for the most expensive sled to maintain that I have ever owned.

And not once have I complained about the failures of the misc suspension parts or tried to cover them under warranty. I know that I am harder on this sled than most people will be on theirs, but when the motor has an internal part failure, that bites me pretty hard.

My dealer tried to give me the song and dance that I ride my machine too hard and that contributes to the chain failure. WTF? This isn't like a motorcycle that you can free rev the motor, slam gears, neutral drops and such. This motor should be able to take wide open throttle for 3400 miles straight. Come on Yamaha your better than that?

And my buddy with the Renegade has a few more miles on his sled than I doo and I know that he hasn't done anything to it but replace a few belts, and heck SKI-DOO warrantied 2 or 3 of his belts. Which reminds me I had a 8DN belt blow with just over 500 miles on the belt.

Anyway I better get off this computer before I rant to much more, its just when I here people say how reliable and cheap to maintain these sleds are, it gets my goat.
 
They are cheap to maintain over the long run.In your case engine failure knocks that statement right down the tubes.But your case IS such a small fraction of the machines Yamaha sells and we all know that Yamaha will fix your motor if past is any indicator and you do your part.I agree we do have to fix many minor issues and tune the sleds to our liking but really those are inexpensive and dont take long to do.Even then we will never end up with the "Perfect"sled.I wish you luck and dont blame you for your disdain but dont let this go.Make some calls to Yamaha.Do what they say and I am sure you will be satisfied in the end.
 
I understand your pain snoxracer, but this is the first engine failure I've heard of (maybe there are more, I'm not on the boards that much). By contrast I have a friend who owns a doo dealership (hard not to buy a 600sdi from him at the time I purchased) and he has been luke warm at best on what he has seen from doo. Everyone of them has their duds and their high points. He's had much less problems on his e-tecs than his 1200's, and likes my Nytro quite a bit. This will be the second year I will have to ride with out my friend (or not ride at all) because his 06 adrenaline has just blown up for the second straight year. So everyone makes a lemon, everyone of them has their ups and downs, as we can see from the contrast between your and berge's experiences with the doos you ride with. Hang in there, I think you just got a bad one. I would hope Yami would make it right, sorry for the long post.
 
I believe this is an isolated incident. I think one of the oil pump drive gears had a rough edge that wore through the chain links. Hopefully it was one bad gear that made it into a Nytro engine and not a batch of them.
 
Snoxracer242 said:
And oil, if you maintain your oil changes, like I have, (Now that Ihave changed it 5 times in 3400 miles) Thats 3.5 quarts per oil change @ $9 a quart, then add a filter on top of that $10. And your at the tune of $45 per oil change.
Changed at 500 miles, 1200, 2100, 3000 and now with 3400 miles on it. Figure that one out?

I'm curious as to the reason for that amount of oil changes. Every 900 or so miles is just a bit of overkill IMO. My Attak gets new oil every 2500 miles or so.
 
The first oil change was for the break-in oil at 500 miles, then changed it at the end of the season. Then I had about 1000 miles on the oil and we were headed up north for a week long trip so I was going thru the machine and thought I'd change it. Then I hit around the 3000 mile make and wanted to switch to synthetic oil, plus we were headed out to Bear Lodge in the big horns, late last spring. And then the oil pump chain broke at 3426 miles.

So yeah I have always kept good oil in and overkilled on the changes. But knowing that I really wasn't going to update my sled for many years, I wanted take the best care that I could. Oil is cheap insurance in most cases, just not this one.

In my dirt bike I will change the oil after every couple rides, 4 hours or so, and that is a 05- CRF450 will alot of time on and has never had to even have a valve adjustment done to it like most of them need.

Thanks again guys for all the replys, I have a little over 100 miles on the motor since I put the chain in, and still running good. So I'd think that if I had any problems coming, I'd be hearing motor noises by now. I'll keep my fingers crossed!

Thanks,

Dustin
 
The first oil change was for the break-in oil at 500 miles, then changed it at the end of the season. Then I had about 1000 miles on the oil and we were headed up north for a week long trip so I was going thru the machine and thought I'd change it. Then I hit around the 3000 mile make and wanted to switch to synthetic oil, plus we were headed out to Bear Lodge in the big horns, late last spring. And then the oil pump chain broke at 3426 miles.

So yeah I have always kept good oil in and overkilled on the changes. But knowing that I really wasn't going to update my sled for many years, I wanted take the best care that I could. Oil is cheap insurance in most cases, just not this one.

In my dirt bike I will change the oil after every couple rides, 4 hours or so, and that is a 05- CRF450 will alot of time on and has never had to even have a valve adjustment done to it like most of them need.

Thanks again guys for all the replys, I have a little over 100 miles on the motor since I put the chain in, and still running good. So I'd think that if I had any problems coming, I'd be hearing motor noises by now. I'll keep my fingers crossed!

Thanks,

Dustin
 


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