make your Nytro rock, some critical suspension settings

[gormleyflyer2002]

your both getting to the same area but Blue is correct in nhis description which keeps everything even and equal....for all comp and rebound adjustmets, turn the screws or knobs closed (hard/slow) and back out to your fav setting.

funny, almost full rebound on both back shocks and nil on the fronts.

 

[Reaper]

your both getting to the same area but Blue is correct in nhis description which keeps everything even and equal....for all comp and rebound adjustmets, turn the screws or knobs closed (hard/slow) and back out to your fav setting.

funny, almost full rebound on both back shocks and nil on the fronts.

?? No rebound adjustment on rear of standard FX

 

[unchained]

your both getting to the same area but Blue is correct in nhis description which keeps everything even and equal....for all comp and rebound adjustmets, turn the screws or knobs closed (hard/slow) and back out to your fav setting.

funny, almost full rebound on both back shocks and nil on the fronts.

I understand Im likely uneven based on a how I made the adjusments to my iced over, frozen clickers on the side of the trail and will continue to adjust as the season goes on, just wanted to chime in and let everyone know that I really like the way mine rides now with less rebound on the front shocks. I dont need a reminder again about my owners manual

 

[unchained]

OK I might have stumble upon something in my little brain for you guys that do NOT have the RTX w/Floats. IF I recall correctly the amount you guys can actually adjust your spring preload to is quite small before you'll encounter 'coil bind'! This may be why some of you are getting some of the symtoms you are getting out on the trail. Now I don't have this sled so I ignored the tech guy when he was telling others this.. Damn I wish I could remember what measurement he claimed they had but I want to say it was under an inch! Someof you guys that are having ill handling is your spring preload cranked down? Try backing it off and adding more compression dampening.. Sorry I can't ride to help....

Thats the first thing I did when I got it but there is only a couple of threads you can back it out before the spring actually becomes loose on the collars when fully extended.

 

[Reaper]

yup, about 3mm

 

[lucky_7]

Intertesting, you say you backed off when in fact you have increased rebound dampening. I was at 3 clicks out (very slow rebound) and found the front end very unpredictable and stiff. I went to minimum rebound (20 clicks out) out and found the sled was dramatically better in the rough, front end stayed flat and did not wildly pitch L-R.

Darting is all condition related, depending on the day mine will dart like an SOB and other days its just fine, all depends on the ruts. Mine bottoms a fair bit in the roough but never crashes, are you sitting on the seat or standing when it crashes ?

I could be backwards here, but Im pretty sure I turned the rebound (lower) clickers counterclockwise all the way and then back clockwise 3 clicks. The front end rebounds quicker back up when you push down on the bumper. Like I said, Im not sure what the negative affects will be, but on a trail with less than 1' whoops and steady chop it was dramaticaly better and a lot smoother with a lot less feedback through the handlebars into my arms.

Yup, you are set to very soft or lots of rebound. To set rebound you should turn adjuster clockwise until it stops or bottoms out (make sure it goes all the way as mine was very stiff on one side and I got them unbalanced). Then back it off turning counter clockwise (increasing rebound speed) to 17 clicks or what every you want, I prefer 20 clicks myself.

Wait, wait, wait....maybe I am backwards with my terminology here...but when you go all the way counter clockwise you would be slowing the rebound down, not speeding it up. The rear of the skid will actually rebound slower with it all the way out. If you turn it to full rebound (all the way clockwise) it will be riding like a pogo stick.

 

[cannondale27]

Clockwise slows it down do this if its kicking
Counter Clockwise speeds it up do this if its packing up and not dropping for next bump

Its the same as a faucet

 

[Reaper]

Wait, wait, wait....maybe I am backwards with my terminology here...but when you go all the way counter clockwise you would be slowing the rebound down, not speeding it up. The rear of the skid will actually rebound slower with it all the way out. If you turn it to full rebound (all the way clockwise) it will be riding like a pogo stick.

You got it #*$&@ backwards bud

 

[lucky_7]

Thanks! Only my 6 year old son thinks I am a genius...luckily he doesn't read this site!

 

[Reaper]

Thanks! Only my 6 year old son thinks I am a genius...luckily he doesn't read this site!

Wait till he becomes a teenager, you will become stupid again

 

[unchained]

Intertesting, you say you backed off when in fact you have increased rebound dampening. I was at 3 clicks out (very slow rebound) and found the front end very unpredictable and stiff. I went to minimum rebound (20 clicks out) out and found the sled was dramatically better in the rough, front end stayed flat and did not wildly pitch L-R.

Darting is all condition related, depending on the day mine will dart like an SOB and other days its just fine, all depends on the ruts. Mine bottoms a fair bit in the roough but never crashes, are you sitting on the seat or standing when it crashes ?

I could be backwards here, but Im pretty sure I turned the rebound (lower) clickers counterclockwise all the way and then back clockwise 3 clicks. The front end rebounds quicker back up when you push down on the bumper. Like I said, Im not sure what the negative affects will be, but on a trail with less than 1' whoops and steady chop it was dramaticaly better and a lot smoother with a lot less feedback through the handlebars into my arms.

Yup, you are set to very soft or lots of rebound. To set rebound you should turn adjuster clockwise until it stops or bottoms out (make sure it goes all the way as mine was very stiff on one side and I got them unbalanced). Then back it off turning counter clockwise (increasing rebound speed) to 17 clicks or what every you want, I prefer 20 clicks myself.

Wait, wait, wait....maybe I am backwards with my terminology here...but when you go all the way counter clockwise you would be slowing the rebound down, not speeding it up. The rear of the skid will actually rebound slower with it all the way out. If you turn it to full rebound (all the way clockwise) it will be riding like a pogo stick.

I thought we were talking about the front GYTR's not the rear clickers? I have a std with no rebound on either rear track shock.....

 

[skyboz]

Intertesting, you say you backed off when in fact you have increased rebound dampening. I was at 3 clicks out (very slow rebound) and found the front end very unpredictable and stiff. I went to minimum rebound (20 clicks out) out and found the sled was dramatically better in the rough, front end stayed flat and did not wildly pitch L-R.

Darting is all condition related, depending on the day mine will dart like an SOB and other days its just fine, all depends on the ruts. Mine bottoms a fair bit in the roough but never crashes, are you sitting on the seat or standing when it crashes ?

I could be backwards here, but Im pretty sure I turned the rebound (lower) clickers counterclockwise all the way and then back clockwise 3 clicks. The front end rebounds quicker back up when you push down on the bumper. Like I said, Im not sure what the negative affects will be, but on a trail with less than 1' whoops and steady chop it was dramaticaly better and a lot smoother with a lot less feedback through the handlebars into my arms.

Yup, you are set to very soft or lots of rebound. To set rebound you should turn adjuster clockwise until it stops or bottoms out (make sure it goes all the way as mine was very stiff on one side and I got them unbalanced). Then back it off turning counter clockwise (increasing rebound speed) to 17 clicks or what every you want, I prefer 20 clicks myself.

Wait, wait, wait....maybe I am backwards with my terminology here...but when you go all the way counter clockwise you would be slowing the rebound down, not speeding it up. The rear of the skid will actually rebound slower with it all the way out. If you turn it to full rebound (all the way clockwise) it will be riding like a pogo stick.

I thought we were talking about the front GYTR's not the rear clickers? I have a std with no rebound on either rear track shock.....

I thought you guys were talking about the front GYT-R's!!

 

[unchained]

I think I'm gonna try this... I put on 160 hard miles yesteday. I noticed it the kickback as the front of the skid bottomed out and then the rear kicked me back on some of the bigger moguls. It should help on jump landings to.. So front limiter strap three holes eh? Its going to have a lot of inside ski-lift on hard pack with the tourque this thing has.. no way around it. but flatter cornering is must need for me..

Have you tried your rear torsions on # 3 (hard). I have made MANY changes that have geatly improved this exact issue you are having and after everything I did, setting the torsions on #3 was the ticket. Im stretching to 128 and re-valving my shocks to truley make it a mogul masher, but everything I did made a huge improvement especially the front arm crash-bottom/ rear skid botom then kick back issue you described here.....

 

[NB-NYTRO]

I have the rear springs on hard now.. My head hurts with all the info on here. I'm 250lbs+ gear and I have the rear shock compression set to hard. I pulled the front limiter strap one hole as of now.. It steers a bit better but the handling is still iffy.. So whats my next move? Take the front limiter strap down one more hole and take the rear limiter strap down one or two holes? I think I will take some rebound out of the front GYTR's too. I'm so confused about cranking down the spring on the front ski shock. Some posts say crank it down. Some say don't. My heads hurts.. Calling my dealer to lodge my complaint on my poor working handwarmers, soaked left boot problem, crazy hot muffler, and belt smoking problem.

 

[Reaper]

I have the rear springs on hard now.. My head hurts with all the info on here. I'm 250lbs+ gear and I have the rear shock compression set to hard. I pulled the front limiter strap one hole as of now.. It steers a bit better but the handling is still iffy.. So whats my next move? Take the front limiter strap down one more hole and take the rear limiter strap down one or two holes? I think I will take some rebound out of the front GYTR's too. I'm so confused about cranking down the spring on the front ski shock. Some posts say crank it down. Some say don't. My heads hurts.. Calling my dealer to lodge my complaint on my poor working handwarmers, soaked left boot problem, crazy hot muffler, and belt smoking problem.

We have been talking about Front GYTR all along, humor me and try this, ride a shitty section back and forth with stock setting were the front is dancing around and feels iffy. Now back out rebound to 20 clicks from 0 and back out compression 12 clicks from 0. Run the same section back and forth and see what happens, you may be very pleasantly surprised.