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MCX 190 Ulmer Clutch Kit Overrev

That's the first I've heard of that... Makes sense though. My dealer didn't think I should be seeing 7 all the time either. My clutch kit from Ulmer was set up for this kit and I've even added extra weight. I don't have a lot of extra room for more weight.
I will try to add more weight though, as you are the second person to tell me this.
 

Did the kit from Ulmer include helix and springs?
I used Supertip 60y on an +300hp sled, fully loaded, but still, so the weights will be able to bring rpm down, as long as clutches don't bind and your gearing isn't to short.
Why leave middle empty?
Try heel 6, mid 4 and tip 2, for a start.
How is secondary winded?
Try loosen it 10°, guess you have it @ 70-80.
 
Yes the kit came with two springs a helix and super tip weights with 3 in the heel and 3 in the tip. Ive added 2 to the heel and 2 to the tip, so total 5 heel and 5 in the tip. The secondary is wound 6 and 1.
 
First off, Ulmer knows his stuff, so his setting usually is really close, so with 60g base and added 10g they are 70g, that's alot, even for a MCX190 ;).
That makes me thinking something is wrong, could you verify with Ulmer you got correct springs and helix.
If you still have stock helix and springs i would install them and keep the Supertips, should work pretty good in keeping rpm down, just to try something diffrent til you verified tuning with Ulmer.
 
He has packing sheets labeled with what should be there with the kit. The only thing I am unsure of is if the helix is correct. As the angle isnt written on the packing sheet. I will double check with Allen. I dont have stock clutching. I bought it used, the guy before had a decent set up for stock. He also changed the gearing to XTX gearing. I'm guessing I should probably adjust the rod some more..
 
First off, Ulmer knows his stuff, so his setting usually is really close, so with 60g base and added 10g they are 70g, that's alot, even for a MCX190 ;).

You told me a couple posts back to start with "heel 6, mid 4 and tip 2, for a start." Thats more than I have now.. What do you think I should do? adjust the rod or add more weight?
 
It's a bit more, and it's distributed differently on the weight, but it it's hitting rev limiter hard it's not going to be sufficient.
How old is your MCX kit, where did you buy it?
If you have the latest program in it you can't over boost and you can adjust the rod all day long and not change boost anything.
So if you can confirm that your boost is between 7 to 8 @ around 2000 feet you are NOT over boosting and you can concentrate on clutching.
Does Ulmer know your MTX is geared as an XTX? It has an pretty big effect on clutch tuning.
If your clutching is not binding, and it still hit up to 9300 from any speed, add several grams in heel and middle, maybe 8 in heel and 6 in middle and leave 5 in tip.
If what you have now (5 in heel and 5 in tip) made it almost good add 3-4g in middle and leave heel and tip.
 
I dont believe he knew about the gearing.. but he does now. I just emailed him and let him know. 9300 was from the original setting (3 in heel and 3 in tip) ill go try some more weight. If that doesnt do it i dont know what ill do.
 
My kit is brand new. Now I have 8 in the heel 2 in the middle 5 in the tip, took it for a run and hit 9300 rpm. I'm lost.. and very frustrated with this..
 
Is it normal for the Altitude on the stock gauge to change as boost is applied to the engine? It was showing 620 and then when I hit the throttle it would go as low as 250.
 
just made another 3.5 turns on the wastegate rod.. which makes 8 turns total.. and still seeing 7 psi and hitting the rev limiter every time I hit full throttle.. I'm officially puzzled. and in need of answers..
 
The altimeter will do that because MCX routes it into the charge air. So as soon as you throttle your gauge will bounce around.
 
You can disconnect the TCV and then it will boost the setting you have on your wastage arm. I would suggest getting a Turbo smart controller then you always have control of what your sled is boosting.
 
You can disconnect the TCV and then it will boost the setting you have on your wastage arm. I would suggest getting a Turbo smart controller then you always have control of what your sled is boosting.

Is it safe to disconnect the tcv? I assume this is the connection between the fuel controller and the turbo. I really don't want to spend more money on this thing.. It shouldn't need something like this to operate normally, in my opinion. It will be my last case scenario though.
 


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