Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
And the one time that you have to do a stretch of road running, you're burning through what remains of the slider and goodbye rails.
Putting larger 135mm wheels on it will give you that 2.5mm of extra protection.
Putting larger 135mm wheels on it will give you that 2.5mm of extra protection.
Sled Dog
Lifetime Member
Grimm said:And the one time that you have to do a stretch of road running, you're burning through what remains of the slider and goodbye rails.
Putting larger 135mm wheels on it will give you that 2.5mm of extra protection.
LOL no sorry has not happened yet and I have done five miles straight of snow of gravel at least 5 times a year on these same sliders that have been on for two years now.
welterracer
TY 4 Stroke God
The problem i have found with running larger front wheels is that the rails are starting to twist from the extra force the bogies are putting on them..
This could also be caused by the chizzel plowed fields i run on around my house..
either way the larger wheels work..
This could also be caused by the chizzel plowed fields i run on around my house..
either way the larger wheels work..
scott32
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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ROCKERDAN said:I used to just dimple them too...but found drilling right thru was even better.
with same sleds side by side,you would see the one with holes drilled thru the alum rails were signif cooler...the snow was not melting on them,where the no drilled thru slider rails were hot,snow melted off.
this was always a speed trick for ICE RACERS,i dont know if it makes them last longer or not,but they seem to run cooler on ICE and lake runs.
I always like to get every little edge i can,this is why i am usually 1- 3mph faster on radar then stock apexs....lots of little tricks added together make MPH IMO.
Id like to hear more about this liquid graphite stuff,sounds interesting!
Dan
The product is called ez-slide liquid grafite coating/paint. Also there is a grafite powder made the same company in which I mix more into the paint to create more of a paste to where I would apply this with a putty knife, pressing it into the holes. The holes that I drilled are no larger than a 1/4" and on a 60 or so degree angle opposing the direction of the track with the theory behind it being that the clips drive the grafite back into the holes in the case of separation which then would fill with snow and ice if a piece were to ever fall out. This may seem a very minimal tactic to reduce friction but it has worked very well in my experiences. Just make absolute sure the grafite is completely dry. As I had stated in my previous post, it will be tacky at the start but after a few miles it will polish up and be the slickest sliders you've ever had. I also mix the dry powder with the chaincase oil, just a little to fill any pits or imperfections in bearings. I've only replaced one drive bearing ever, and that was 100kms after I picked it up from the dealer.
scott32,
Very interesting technique. Did you apply this to the whole hyfax surface, or just the area's prone to higher wear? Did you drill all the way thru to the rails?
Where can I purchase some of this EZ-SLIDE Graphite paint?
Thanks
Very interesting technique. Did you apply this to the whole hyfax surface, or just the area's prone to higher wear? Did you drill all the way thru to the rails?
Where can I purchase some of this EZ-SLIDE Graphite paint?
Thanks
scott32
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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nlh,
Check out all your local farm equipment dealers. I live in a farm rich area and it mostly used in gravity bins to esure the seed slide out with out any sticking to the bin. As for where did I apply it? I did the entire hyfax as well as my track clips at the same time to fill any pits in the clips. A thin spread on the clips will not last very long at all, but the purpose is to fill pits. I believe a gallon is about $12 and will do alot of sliders. Only mix what you need.
Check out all your local farm equipment dealers. I live in a farm rich area and it mostly used in gravity bins to esure the seed slide out with out any sticking to the bin. As for where did I apply it? I did the entire hyfax as well as my track clips at the same time to fill any pits in the clips. A thin spread on the clips will not last very long at all, but the purpose is to fill pits. I believe a gallon is about $12 and will do alot of sliders. Only mix what you need.
Tayz588
Extreme
The best way to keep your slides lasting a long time is if you are riding on hard packed groomed trails...duck off into powder every now and then..it basically floods the skid with snow that helps for more than just a few miles..i ran some tests doing this last winter when this was a hot topic on here. I have found that if you ride on a somewhat loose surface the heat from the slides and the cooling of going off into powder creates almost like a thick glaze of ice over the slides. Just what i've noticed
Phatboyc
TY 4 Stroke Master
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Allot of you are adding wheels and/or bigger wheels to the skid. So why did the snowmobile evolution from all bogey wheels to slides was a big thing back then?
scott32
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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Phatboyc said:Allot of you are adding wheels and/or bigger wheels to the skid. So why did the snowmobile evolution from all bogey wheels to slides was a big thing back then?
The para-rail first designed by scorpion was invented for a better suspension system, and was full of wheels. the sliders came into play for less wieght by eliminating most wheels. Take a look at a sno-cross sled. They aren't putting the miles to be concerned about slide wear, less wheels = less weight. Any surface rubbing another causes fiction that robs hp being put to the gound.
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
Less wheels = less cost for manufacturer
03RX1-ER-LE
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The way my hyfax wears I am thinking of going all boogey! LMAO
grumpysanta
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
ice scratchers thats what yam. is soing removing wheels and adding scratchers
RX1Jim
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
The heat and cooling process to make the hyfax last longer is a complete load of crap. This process would only be effective on a material which would undergo a chemical or structural change. This heating and cooling process will have NO effect on either the chemical or structure of the plastic. Old wives tale with no scientific basis. Don't waste your time or money.
I got worried when everybody started talking about slider where. (2005 RS Vector ER). First year the right side slider was worn to just below the wear line. So, I got the 4th wheel kit. Did not help. (I' am sure the wheel kit helps somehow, like allignment. That was proven by someone I know that does grass drags. Without the 4th wheel kit the sled would pull to the right.) Anyhow, I decided to let the slides alone and see how far they would wear after hearing they only wear so far. It is true. I left them on and ran them even though they were worn just before the wear line. Replaced with over 3000 miles on them. Still hadn't worn through. Now I don't worry about it, unless the wear line would be gone.
Sled Dog
Lifetime Member
CENA said:I got worried when everybody started talking about slider where. (2005 RS Vector ER). First year the right side slider was worn to just below the wear line. So, I got the 4th wheel kit. Did not help. (I' am sure the wheel kit helps somehow, like allignment. That was proven by someone I know that does grass drags. Without the 4th wheel kit the sled would pull to the right.) Anyhow, I decided to let the slides alone and see how far they would wear after hearing they only wear so far. It is true. I left them on and ran them even though they were worn just before the wear line. Replaced with over 3000 miles on them. Still hadn't worn through. Now I don't worry about it, unless the wear line would be gone.
Now here is a guy who knows what he is talking about cause I have done the same thing. Just leave em on and ride and keep an eye on them. I tell you the rail acts like a heat sink when the sliders wear close to them and the wear stops.
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