Need HELP too! Electrical problem.....HELP!

[4strokeluvr111]

You can me PM and I'll give you my cell # if it would be easier to t-shoot this over the phone.

Sled is a 2005 Vector - RS90RK. Just (almost) completed installing new front end bushings, donuts, skid refresh, installed tall seat from 06 Apex, riser, etc etc.

Also pulled apart every electrical connection that I could find and put die-electric grease in the connections then re-installed.

The sled started and ran fine prior to this work.

Went to start the sled and only hear a faint click. All connections tight. Battery is charged and reading 13+ volts where the positive wire comes up to a junction block of sorts on the RH side (have multitester).

When I turn the key to start, the voltage drops to near zero. When I release it, the volts go to 8'ish volts. Turn the key off....then back on.....13+ volts.

I pulled the IGN fuse and I do not get the voltage drop.

I'm not sure what else to check. I think that one of the three relays by the RH footwell is a starter relay but I'm not 100% sure and if so, which one it is. I have the service manual for the sled but it hasn't helped me.

Because of the voltage dropping.....I'm thinking starter relay or God forbid....starter. But how did this happen? I disconn'ed the battery before I started tearing it down!

HELP PLEASE!!!!

 

[rrxx-1]

Something is loose, could be a ground. Go through and check every connection again.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

Something is loose, could be a ground. Go through and check every connection again.

It acts like when you turn the key something is grounding out to take the volts down to near zero. Check them and are checking again.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

The clicking sound is coming from the block where the + battery cable comes to. There's two 30 amp fuses on either side of an AMP style connector that plugs into the block.

This is the starter relay?

 

[helmic]

ground

Its a ground problem recheck your wiring.

 

[nytrozula]

any chance you have a tether switch disconnected?

 

[4strokeluvr111]

Well it turns out is was the BATTERY! Put my "old" battery in and it turned right over. My Optimate 3 said the "bad" battery was fully charged and my other 6 amp charger couldn't give it a charge. Going to take it in tomorrow to have it tested. We'll see if my old battery maintains the charge.....there isn't something draining it.

Unreal!

 

[cannondale27]

Yup failed under a load. When you read the voltage under no load it is fine because at least one cell in battery is good. Thats why best way to test a battery is a load test.

 

[Blue Dave]

So many guys are having this issue right now getting their sleds going for the first time this season with batteries that may be several years old. Those that have electrical meters will check the battery while it is not under load and think it is fine. Few guys think to check the battery voltage when the key is in the cranking position which is the true test of the battery and if bad the voltage will drop significantly.

I am glad you figured it out. I replaced my original ('07) battery last year. If you need to buy a battery you may want to consider upgrading to the 20 series.Here is a link to a thread that I started on my upgraded battery choice:

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... m&start=30

I considered the Deka ETX-14 which is the exact same size as the original Yuasa and which has 220 CCA which is 20 CCA more than the original but I wanted to put in the largest most powerful battery that would fit properly.

I considered the Deka ETX-20L which is larger and will fit without the foam spacers but it is only available with the L polarity which is backwards.

In the end I chose the Interstate CYTX20H-BS which is the largest battery that will fit properly (6 7/8" wide x 3 7/16" thick x 6 1/8" tall) and which has 310 CCA.

This battery is the same size as the the outside dimensions of the foam spacers. It has the correct polarity orientation and it fits perfectly with the cover on it.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

Blue Dave - the weird thing about my deal was that the battery was working FINE until I started working on the sled. I've started the sled up a few times over the course of the summer and ran it before I tore it down. Sure it's possible that after I installed it, a + wire was touching something and drained the battery but I'm pretty careful about that stuff.

I charged the "dead" battery overnight with the Optimate 3 and it showed a full charge this AM. Thinking that MAYBE there was a dead short somewhere in the sled and draining the battery, I cranked the sled this AM with the "old" battery and she turned over no problem. I know there could be a slow drain somewhere yet.

I'm going to take the "dead" battery in today and have it load tested. But why was it fine a couple of weeks ago and not now......strange. If I have to get a new battery that's OK. I'll get the bigger one assuming it will fit my Vector bracket.

 

[Blue Dave]

How old is the "dead" battery? Typically 5 years is a pretty good run on a seasonal RV battery. Some guys replace them before they fail on a sled trip just for peace of mind. I am happy to have a new (1 yr old) upgraded 310 CCA battery in my sled now.

I put my batteries on my Optimate 4 on a regular basis and have had luck bringing "dead" batteries back to life with the Optimate 4. However on a sled that is next to impossible to pull start in below zero temps I wouldn't take a chance on a "revived" battery.

 

[4strokeluvr111]

How old is the "dead" battery? Typically 5 years is a pretty good run on a seasonal RV battery. Some guys replace them before they fail on a sled trip just for peace of mind. I am happy to have a new (1 yr old) upgraded 310 CCA battery in my sled now.

I put my batteries on my Optimate 4 on a regular basis and have had luck bringing "dead" batteries back to life with the Optimate 4. However on a sled that is next to impossible to pull start in below zero temps I wouldn't take a chance on a "revived" battery.

The "dead" battery is 4 yrs old.........but the battery was fine 2-3 weeks ago. Sled started and ran fine. Just came back from Fleet Farm and the battery is bad per their tester. Don't trust the guy that did it however....he said he's never heard of CCA's in a snomo/ATV battery. I wish companies would hire knowledgeable people!!!!

And...the stock battery in my Vector is a 20 Series. 14 Series is listed as an alternate.

 

[steiner]

The old battery could of had a weak plate or two. Working on the sled and removing the battery around may have jarred the weak plate loose causing your issue.

 

[Blue Dave]

I would buy a new one for peace of mind. Like I said earlier, you may want to take this opportunity to upgrade to the 20 series 310 CCA battery as described in my earlier post above.

 

[Handy]

Just as a heads up to Blue Dave. You have an Apex and the sled in question is a Vector. The Vector battery is larger than the Apex and has no foam spacer around it, also the termials are reversed so that if you try to put an Apex battery into a Vector the cables won't reach.